Hey i have a small problem with the wiring on my ed falcon going into the thermostat housing, the picture isnt from my car, just something wrong with my wiring and trying to figure out wot, the blue plug indicated should be plugged in where it is in the picture yes? well the connector wont fit into it, don think its the right one, the one there looks like it the same as the one bellow it, would it be a matter of just getting the correct fitting and switching them over? The temp gauge isn't working either

The pink wire below that plug is the sensor for the temp gauge and warning light on the dash, 99% sure, The bigger black plug is the sensor for the ECU. Not quite sure what the blue plug is.

oh ok. just trying to figure out wot that other plug is as it wont plug into my thermostat housing..
So my gauge not working would prob be the sensor the pink wire connects to? cheers
Do you know if this will impact the thermostat opening and closing?

Hi,

The thermostat is not electric. The connections will be for the temp gauge / ECU. If you have been driving it has it boiled ?

Regards 96ELGli

no it hasnt boiled,the temp gauge isnt working not sure if thats the gauge or the temp sender. yea 1 connection for ecu other for temp gauge but what is the other connection (the blue one pictured)?

hey buddy u ever fix this??

the sensor with the blue plug is used on models with electronic climate control, fairmont/ghia...

im in the same boat how do i get my temp gauge workin??

If your car is an EL then the temp gauge is driven by the data output of the EEC-V... So does the fuel consumption work in diag mode and the gear position indicator and the like? That'll prove the data connection is there... If it is then try a different cluster, if it isn't then prove the wire for continuity and replace either the EEC-V or the temp sender for the EEC-V

For the ED, if the OP gets a 39ohm resistor and sticks one end of it in the temp gauge sender wire (the red with whatever trace) and the other end of the resistor to earth, this should drive the needle to hot... If it doesn't then prove continuity of the wire to the cluster, and try replacing the cluster.

You can measure the sender ohms from it's single pin to ground... With the car warm it should be like 70-100ohms? Stone cold should be 220odd ohms...

You guys don't have stuck open thermostats by any chance causing the motor to never get warm?

Cheers,
Tim