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Pakrat |
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TimmyA wrote: Na the head is the same after my inspections... The oil comes out of the side of the block where the gauge sender screws in... Up the steel pipe into the phasor housing on the front of the head... The solenoid then allows the oil to enter the front of the phasor where you bolt it to the cam shaft and then pressurises in there and causes the inner sleeve to slide, turning the cam... When the solenoid reverts back it blocks the oil line from the sender and allows the phasor to drain back through the housing and out down into the timing chain... Other than that the head is the same... Only thing that really makes it a VCT head is the whopping hole in the front... Oil to the head is still sent up via three head bolts and lubricates the cam and overhead gear... Cheers, Tim That'd be why I havnt noticed any extra vein like channels, maybe I was missunderstood and he was talking about the b series, I havnt done any major engine work on one. |
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TimmyA |
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Pakrat wrote: TimmyA wrote: Na the head is the same after my inspections... The oil comes out of the side of the block where the gauge sender screws in... Up the steel pipe into the phasor housing on the front of the head... The solenoid then allows the oil to enter the front of the phasor where you bolt it to the cam shaft and then pressurises in there and causes the inner sleeve to slide, turning the cam... When the solenoid reverts back it blocks the oil line from the sender and allows the phasor to drain back through the housing and out down into the timing chain... Other than that the head is the same... Only thing that really makes it a VCT head is the whopping hole in the front... Oil to the head is still sent up via three head bolts and lubricates the cam and overhead gear... Cheers, Tim That'd be why I havnt noticed any extra vein like channels, maybe I was missunderstood and he was talking about the b series, I havnt done any major engine work on one. Same same... My old man works for Ford... He was telling me they squirt the down the cam and into the phasor that way and the solenoid drops into the top somehow through the rocker cover... Neater design because there is no external oil pipe and all the wiring is under that dodgy looking black cover... But as far as oil goes, yeah is probably more complicated... Never seen under the cover on a B series though, so in much the same boat as you as to what is under there... Cheers, Tim
_________________ 93 Red ED 5spd Manual Build Thread |
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tapeworm |
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thanks for the replies. I actually warped a head years ago trying to get the car home after a blown head gasket despite a very short drive. I wil ignore the AU sensor as I'm using the EF ECU with a J-car chip running the AU VCT fuel/spark maps instead of worring about an AU ECU and loom etc. I guess you would need the AU ECU to recognise the AU cylinder head temp sensor.
_________________ she dream't she was a bulldozer, she dream't she was alone in a field |
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TimmyA |
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twase said above he used it... would be best to get confirmation from him as to how accurate it was with the wrong computer/instruments...
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twase |
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There was no diference between the two other than confidence that it was measuring temperature irrespective of having coolant in the system or not. I have been caught several times over the years with running dry without warning. Don't expect to have gained a run dry feature if you are intending to use the AU sensor though.
_________________ BF Fairmont Ghia Series II update. |
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twase |
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tapeworm wrote: thanks for the replies. I actually warped a head years ago trying to get the car home after a blown head gasket despite a very short drive. I wil ignore the AU sensor as I'm using the EF ECU with a J-car chip running the AU VCT fuel/spark maps instead of worring about an AU ECU and loom etc. I guess you would need the AU ECU to recognise the AU cylinder head temp sensor. You can just parallel up the AU sensor wiring with the existing sensor plug and then plug in which ever sensor you want.
_________________ BF Fairmont Ghia Series II update. |
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TimmyA |
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Cheers Twase...
I should have run dry indication due to that lamp for the sender in the header tank... If that lamp comes on I'll know to shut it down because the temp sender wont be reading real well... This was more so the reason why I didn't bother with it (plus the difficulties of re-routing the wiring halfway round the engine bay due to the ED looms being how they are... Yeah you're right the run dry feature isn't dependant on that sender, it is dependant on the AU computer shutting down cylinders in turn to help keep the motor cool... Cheers, Tim
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low_ryda |
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so you're saying if you take the AU sensor out it won't leak any coolant ?
_________________ Not to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol is a solution. |
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Pakrat |
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It dosnt screw into a water channel it measures the temp of the head it's self. Treads into alloy no coolant willeak
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TimmyA |
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I can confirm this... I did it on my ED with the VCT head...
Cheers, Tim
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Pakrat |
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The first AU head I did at work was a pain, car needed a new head. Forgot to put the friggen plug in!
What a mission that was. I can do it in a few mins now but when the cars hot and you havnt done it before and being rushed. Not cool |
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eaboomer |
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So vct runs off the comp so u need to change ur ecu to work it in a earlier model does that mean the best ecu is the au xr6 ecu? Would that ecu work in like a ea eb i really dont get this computer s**t lol
_________________ Low and slow yeah.... But not that slow but low... But not to low either... yeah |
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TimmyA |
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ea or eb isn't going to have smartlock... Eb xr computers are still smartlock i think? So your computer will be the best for the car...
To drive the drive the vct you go to jaycars website and buy the freq switch kit... Build it... Hook it up... Set the rpm point and then hook it to your vct solenoid... Cheers, tim
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