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| nalane |
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Nigel wrote: Metal is maleable. If there is room for the metal to displace to under load it may do that. So I want original design WTF. Are tou serious. The nuts are softer than the studs so you sacrifice the nut if you oops. Do you think the wheel is going to suck the nut in the recess. |
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| hans hartman |
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If you counter sink a screw, the screw is always in the centre of the hole.[/quote]
the extesion is to locate on centre,the hole in the mag is about 15-18mm,with the studs 7\16/so the sleve extension takes up the gap and the taper locks the wheel,seen them on a few mags.
_________________ R.I.P HANS HARTMAN |
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| nalane |
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The taper works on the same principle as an open nut on a steel wheel.
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| Nigel |
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The alloy wheel is in fact softe than the nut! And the steel insert In the wheel is designed to be held a certain way. Your most likely 100% right nothing will get damaged but what if it does. Throwing into the mix the fact they're genuine eb gt wheels, kinda rare, and I'll not always be driving sensibly so there will be both rotational and lateral forces on those steel inserts that they weren't designed for
Anyway.. I have a plan Nigel |
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| nalane |
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Just press the studs out and replace with EA/ED ones. Job done or get out the dremel.
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| rustyeb1991 |
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nalane wrote: Just press the studs out and replace with EA/ED ones. Job done or get out the dremel. +1 that will be the best option. |
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| TROYMAN |
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i think the eb nut will fit fine, they look longer than the usual type nut..
i just fitted a ef diff to my ed with longer studs and while im running aftermarket nuts, they are not very long, but they still do up enough for the stud not to bottom out... to point out the obvious. just try one on the hub without the wheel, if it goes all the way up its fine.... |
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| Nigel |
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Eb thread is 5-10mm short
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| Nigel |
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Anyway, time for a follow up on a surprisingly polarising thread.
Ive used the EB wheel nuts. At 67mm long, there was plenty of room inside them for the EF/EL Studs. I drilled the inside of the nuts a further 15mm so the stud had clearance, by drilling a 3mm pilot, then following through with a 10.5mm drill (if your going to do this, make sure you remove the 10.5mm drill regularly and clear the swarf from the nut). I then Tapped an additional 5mm of thread in the nut. These two together give me a wheel nut that "fits" just like factory. Hope that becomes usefull to someone else later Nigel |
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