Well I was driving the EB II fairmont down to the shop and on the way the battery light comes on, nothing happened so I kept driving the car, went into the shop came out 5min later, went to start it and it turned over slowly and ticked exactly like a flat battery, then went around asking for a jumpstart with no luck went back to the car 20min later. I tried starting it again and it just managed to start (battery still sounded flat and it barely started) then I drove it home, all the lights were extremely dim and the headunit kept restarting. I finally arrived home and switched the car off, then instantly tried to start it, and it wouldn't turn over at all, I don't get what would be causing this? Everything went dim like a faulty alteranor would cause but the car ran fine once started. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

Cheers.

sounds like the alternator has gone

idk on the eb if they have brushes on there alternator but you can just replace the worn brushes, but yes it would be the alternator not recharging

btw the 'battery light' is actually a alternator fault light

ah awesome, I'll go pick one up tomorrow from the wreckers. The car was doing crazy things, the revs were showing 1500rpm on the cluster when the engine was idling fine, could it be anything else like a bem or something electrical or is it pretty safe to say my alternator is gone?

Start at the alternator then diagnose after you've installed it.
Hopefully it fixes all your problems.

look to see if the power steering is leaking onto it, can stuff it up also, think mine is dying from this etc

PWR steering fluid destroys the brushes so if you go to bursons or repco and get a set of brushes 30$ roughly i think! n replace them should run fine otherwise voltage regulator wich come to think of it is what it would be there 60$

if you want to make sure everything else is OK just charge your battery or borrow a charged one out of another car - should work fine for a little while...as has been said, the light means alt isn't charging the battery - the car still runs fine off the battery's power until it runs out ( which normally your alternator is `topping up') Take yer alternator off, take it to an auto electrician, they should be able to replace the brushes for about $20. Thats what I did last time mine went.

Cheers, I checked the car and there's no power steering fluid leaking on it, the battery was flat and I charged it enough to get it in the garage (charge indicator still back) where it's currently charging. I went to top the water up in the battery and when I took the caps off noticed a slight rotten egg/sulphur smell from the water inside. I know this means a dead battery when it stinks but it's very faint and only noticeable when the caps are off and the water in the battery is exposed. Would this mean it's the regulator on the alternator?

start the car take positive terminal off if the car stalls its the alternator ps fairmont should have volts gauge ,anything under 13.5v is too low ,get rid of the cra% bosche one and use ef el fairmont one 90- 120amps just change font pully

Hey mate removed the positive terminal whilst running and it stalled (I later read this was bad for the car??). So I guess that means the alternator is stuffed, would that mean it's the brushes or the volt reg or rectifier or something? I haven't taken it out the car yet but I'm pretty sure it's a Mitsubishi one.

Ok I just gave it a run and for some reason the volts are too high (showing 16v on the cluster) when I rev it the needle usually drops down a little bit to like 14-15v but when finished revving will go back up to 16v.

Would this be the voltage regulator?

You can't do any testing with a near flat or semi flat battery. You have to eliminate battery problem first. The most effective way to do this is fully charge it, and load test it (at a garage or auto electricians). Or just buy a new one if its already a few years old.

you should never disconnect the battery whilst the engine is operating. This can destroy the alternator and cause all kinds of problems in a vehicle fitted with electronics.

Obtain a fully charged servicable battery, take a voltage reading as a reference (should be around 14-14.5V), then install it and start vehicle. Take another voltage reading across battery terminals at idle speed and also at approx 1500-2000rpm, then place volt meter positive probe onto alternator output terminal and compare this idle reading with reading you took from the battery (should be almost no difference). Then increase rpm to 1500 and observe voltage reading. Return engine to idle, then switch headlights on to high beam and observe voltage reading. Increase rpm to 1500 and observe voltage reading. In both of the latter tests you should observe the voltage increase to keep it within a range above 12V eg 13.7 - 14.2V (this compensates for the extra load and keeps the battery charged well above 12V). If it does not increase, the alternator is the likely culprit.

theres alot of different ways to test your situation posted on here mate but what i would do:

first its good to know how old the battery is and keep in back of mind.

Good idea to check connections around battery terminals to see if they are clean and tight. also the earth and connections around the alternator.

Make sure all your interior lights etc haven't been switched to permanently on.

put a multimeter across battery. should be around 11-13v...

start car and battery should now be over 14v... this means your alternator is charging.

If the volts stay the same as when the car was off then your alternator is not working.

Next step if the alternator is stuffed is to pull it out and get an auto electrician to check it out. i blew one on my prado a while back and it was a diode that had blown. not always brushes...

A wrecker alternator might be cheaper.

see how that goes.

Cheers