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| TUF250 |
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Hi guys,
I have an auto EL XR8 II. I have been cleaning it up since I bought it recently with: - new plugs/leads/rotor button/dizzy cap - cleaned MAF and TB out - set TPS to 0.97 - new air filter and fuel filter (and oil not that that will help this) - checked timing at 30 degrees etc The car has an unusual fault. Before I got the leads and set the TPS it would sometimes start really quickly, ie only crank once or twice then fire and other times (I think only from a cold start) it would have to crank over for 5 seconds or so then it would fire up and wasnt very happy about it. It would also have a flat spot / hesitation from idle sometimes. I then changed the leads and set the TPS as well as resetting the ECU and it went away! Since then the fault has returned so I am now unsure where to go next. I do also think the car is running rich? Just by the exhaust smell and the occassional black exhaust puff under power. So Im starting to think maybe MAF or coolant temp sensor? But I want the opinion of people with this experience before I start shelling out any cash. Thanks guys |
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| alpha141 |
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how long ago were your O2 sensors changed? They will only last a max of 100K and as they die the engine will run rich.
Also check for any small vacuum leaks. |
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| TUF250 |
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Yeah I will change them, cheap on ebay these days. Would they affect the idle to power setting though? I thought these were all done by ecu maps and the o2 sensors were only for cruising?
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| FAIRV8 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Hi guys, I have an auto EL XR8 II. I have been cleaning it up since I bought it recently with: - new plugs/leads/rotor button/dizzy cap - cleaned MAF and TB out - set TPS to 0.97 - new air filter and fuel filter (and oil not that that will help this) - checked timing at 30 degrees etc The car has an unusual fault. Before I got the leads and set the TPS it would sometimes start really quickly, ie only crank once or twice then fire and other times (I think only from a cold start) it would have to crank over for 5 seconds or so then it would fire up and wasnt very happy about it. It would also have a flat spot / hesitation from idle sometimes. I then changed the leads and set the TPS as well as resetting the ECU and it went away! Since then the fault has returned so I am now unsure where to go next. I do also think the car is running rich? Just by the exhaust smell and the occassional black exhaust puff under power. So Im starting to think maybe MAF or coolant temp sensor? But I want the opinion of people with this experience before I start shelling out any cash. Thanks guys Mate - My NL Fairlane has a very similar issue. I've done exactly what you have done too as listed. Even replaced the O2 Sensors. It's helped but still a slight flat spot and stutter on acceleration. It's doesn't annoy me that much, because I know how to drive her, but still it's not right. I've even replaced the MAF as when the engine was on LPG it backfired many times and blew the guts out of it.  I had an on-car injection service done a while back which also helped, but I'm thinking taking all the injectors out maybe the only fix! |
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| TUF250 |
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very interesting, please keep me posted on your progress and I will to you if I have any luck
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| FAIRV8 |
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Cool. I haven't worked on the Fairlane for a while. Late last year I drove to Sydney > Melbourne return and apart from blowing out the cob webs, I was able to achieve quite good fuel economy from 18.5l to 11.3l per 100km... The engine is running and idling smoother, slight more power
but still that noticeable stutter and flat on acceleration...I have the reply notification set on this thread, so I'm all ears mate 
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| TUF250 |
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I had a look for vaccume leaks and nothing obvious but I may need to pull the top manifold off and check under there as I know they can fail under there due heat.
The car occassionally does not start well when cold (only when cold) it may fire up then stall then fire up again with no problems or not start at all then on the second attempt start fine. Im sure this is related. Any thoughts. (note the car has new leads, plugs, coil, dizzy cap, rotor button etc so its not the ignition and it did this before I changed all them over) Thanks |
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| EBXR8380 |
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Check your relays and connections .. Check the relay base also..
The wire's / connectors often come adrift ...
_________________ As in ZOOM 126 edition |
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| FAIRV8 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Check your relays and connections .. Check the relay base also.. The wire's / connectors often come adrift ... I don't mean to be naive but check which relays/connections and relay base? 
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| FAIRV8 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: very interesting, please keep me posted on your progress and I will to you if I have any luck Any luck? What's the latest? |
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| CPOCSM |
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Check the EGR spacer and gaskets. I found my issues with the EB XR8 was leaking coolant into the intake airstream and gummed up the whole manifold with gunk. Replaced the gaskets and put a can of Subaru upper cylinder foam through the intake. Works a treat now and intake is now clean and shiny.
Dont park anything behind your car if you use ths cleaner - it will be covered in soot!! Hooroo |
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| FAIRV8 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Check the EGR spacer and gaskets. I found my issues with the EB XR8 was leaking coolant into the intake airstream and gummed up the whole manifold with gunk. Replaced the gaskets and put a can of Subaru upper cylinder foam through the intake. Works a treat now and intake is now clean and shiny. Dont park anything behind your car if you use ths cleaner - it will be covered in soot!! Hooroo The EGR hey? I shall check it out... This cylinder foam only can be bought from Subaru? |
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| CPOCSM |
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The yanks call it seafoam but I use the subaru stuff as I know it works(owned an L series 4WD with a 2.5 WRX drivetrain transplant - including low range!!)and I use it every 12 months. Just keeps the carbon/gunk buildup at bay. DO NOT!!! put it through the MAFF/MAP or it will destroy the wires(this stuff is pretty heavy handed)and follow the instructions to a T. It costs about $17 a tin but it works a treat. Even use it on the mini(just takes longer as the inlet distance is bugger all - the poor brick looks like it has rabies when I try to get half a tin in the inlet!!).
The EGR leak really stumped me - I spent thousands chasing every possible(and most expensive)path to fix my hunting idle but it was a $20 gasket that ultimately fixed it - go figure that one!! Hooroo |
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| FAIRV8 |
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Well I've had a closer look at the EGR valve. So, one electronic connector and one vacuum hose.
Whilst the engine is running, should it stumble or noticeably change revs when I disconnect either of these? Because it didn't make a difference at all... I think I also found the PCV valve... Right at the back of the engine? One end of the hose is connected underneath the inlet manifold and the other is the PCV valve? Which just sits in a groove, it's almost has like a grommet or stopper on the end...? 
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| El-ghia01 |
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another thing is fuel filter,also pull the tank cover off and have a look at the in tank filter/pump,i did and found a hole in the intank filter on the bottom of the pump,also check your fuel pressure on the shrader connector, i did and found the pressure regulator spat the dummy and was giving 20 psi instead of the required 40 psi at idle,you can turn it down a bit if you put a adjustable unit in there,86-93 mustang unit is the go from jegs-summit etc etc,lots more tricks
 but i wont blind you with science <<< joke. 
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