Hello,

Has ayone change their diff / axle over by themselves with assistance?

If so, I am seeking advice and possible problems in overcoming a changeover of my Diff and Live Axle.

My current diff is generating a lot of noise with pinion bearing the main culprit. Ford Mechanics took it for a test drive whilst I was in the car and they confirmed it is a diff problem.

Cheapest option is to change diff over.

I have read that if you take the diff out one should also mark the drive shaft for correct realignment.

However the complete diff / live axle came off another vehicle and was told there is no problems with the diff or axle (came from a bloke who was selling for parts).

As I'm doing the work myself without a hoist, mostly car stands and floor trolley jack + set of car ramps to retention to torque once completed.

I would like to know in my case will there be a problem in relation to lining up the diff holes to the driveshaft connector?

With the handbrake cable, What's the steps in tightening up the handbrake cable once the cable is connected?

Do I need to readjust the handbrake brakes once the cable is reconnected or will it readjust itself?

What size bolts and thread are the bolts holding the driveshaft to the diff?...I was planning to buy new bolts in case the others might be getting knackered.

Cheers,

get all the bolts when you get the diff,so you have spares.turn the axles or tail shaft to line the holes up,check the hand brake linings as they may be glazed or damaged,will most likly need to be adjusted as you dont know anything about the car it came from and you can use some of your diff parts,do you have a manual?down load it from this site,its slow.i have to find the link.viewtopic.php?f=38&t=113232

Hello Hans Hartman,

Thanks , much appreciated, unfortunately the bloke kept the bolts, never came with the diff but I might go to the wreckers and see if I can get them of another vehicle. The wrecker I go to does not mind as long as you tell them, nine times out of ten you wont be asked to pay for them. At least the cars at the wrecker are off the ground unlike some wreckers I've been to.

I've got a manual but its not the best , will see if I can download the maual from the link you provided.
Cheers, Bondy

while your at the wreckers take a bag and get the fuses,the main ones,the small dash coloured ones,relays and spare light globes-tail,indicators and head lights.i usually only pay $5 beer money.almost forgot the dash globes if you find one stripped out,always handy and can be hard to get,i carry some in the boot for trips.and 1 more,stop light switch,ef\el have a habbit to wear out or something,dont know about the au.those parts dont sell and end up crushed,but can be usefull.

Hans.
No worries there. I have spare tail lights and fuses, but not much is left in those wrecked cars as other people must have stripped them before I get to them.

You must have a good wrecker to get your items for $5.00

If its bolts then normally zilch, but headlights , tail lights etc, buggers charge $45.00 each

See how it goes.

Can anyone tell me if you need to disengage the handbrake lever?

I know there is a brake cable that goes to the rear passenger right side that needs to be released but don't know if the handbrake lever is involved in changing over the axle.

Cheers,

manual p236 says the cable is hooked up on both sides and a adjusting system comes from the hand brake lever cable.slacken off the adjuster and unhook the cable on both sides of the diff,you have to remove the brake hydraulic lines and abs sensors,watts links and any thing else on the diff.mark the parts for left and right or driver,passenger side

Hello Hans,

Yeah, I've relaced rear coil springs, shocks and watts links bushes late last year plus rear brakes and rotors. That part I am aware of but not the other stuff, brake adjuster.

Is there a special tool needed for hand brake adjuster?

Thanks

hi,i havnt worked on a au ,but the manual reads similar to my ef.how much of the brake system came with the diff,if the park brake is on it,pull the adjusters off and make sure they turn.they might be rusted or siezed with rubbish,screw them out and use a dab of graphite grease to make them turn easy.i didnt use any special tools to adjust them,decide if you want to use the brake shoes,clean them up with sand paper to deglaze them or use yours.adjusting the shoes is time consuming and i use a large vernier to measure the rotor and shoes.

G'day Hans,

The other diff came with disc rotors and park brake shoes.

I changed the park brake shoes with new ones. Also swaped the disc hubs with my own as mine are about 8 months old so it's relatively new.

I dont have large vernier scale measurer so I'm doing the hard way and will adjust park brake shoes using the rotate wheel method withhand brake cable , long and tedious but thats what I'll have to do.

I've repacked the brake cylinder with HTB grease as well as replaced the old broken rubber housing covering the park brake lever with new rubber.

Should have it completed by Sunday midday.

I hope the bloke I purchased the diff unit from has not p****d in my pocket as to its previous condition...He reckons the diff is very quiet , oh well, soon find out after noon Sunday.

Cheers

post up how it went,if the diffs ok.hope its good.

G'day Hans,

All went well, took me a day and half, big job for one person.

Had trolley jack under the diff, took one bolt out , lucky for me I was not underneath the car when the whole diff csme down with a thud, coil springs bounced everywhere. Car was up on jacks so was not going anywhere in a hurry.

Positioning the diff using the trolley jack is a three person event...one person on the trolley jack and the other two (one either side of the diff) to make sure diff maintained to be central and balanced.

Used blocks of wood to rest diff on few occassions.

Lowered vehicle on car ramps and completed torque specs. Removed ramps and went for a test drive.

Brilliant, no diff noise , I was wrapped.

If ever I have to do that again I was thinking of desiging a portable diff hoist just for raising and lowering ford diffs. Just need to work out grade of steel and thickness to take the heavy wait.

The device will be on rollers too so it can slide under the car without injurying one's back.

Unless one had already been made?

Cheers,

Peter

very happy you have a winner,i know about 3 man jobs,done them all my life with 1-me.think 3 times,adapt and do it once,if it fals ,start again and over come it.

Yep, you're not wrong there Hans.

Went for another test drive this morning, heard a knocking noise from underneath,,hmmm, what could that be I thought ?

Jack vehicle up place on stands, done a thorough che, huh huh, found the culprit. I must have forgotten to tension up the pax side shock absorber bolt..90Nm.

Good as gold again.

Peter