the backfires i am thinking is just a simple case of fuel and air not getting ignited from the constant "trying to start the motor" i am gettign the fuel and air but a laboured constant spark....

i will get the charger off my father and charge it for a few hours and then see. heck might even be a dodgey battery.

Oh forgot to ad that i removed the spark plug lead of each cylinder starting at 1 then 2 then 3 etc etc all of them had spark but it was a yellow spark i thought they were a blue spark. but any way... will charge the car shortly...

cheers geoff

check error codes and battery-not holding charge,then the above,does it run a map sensor?with all the back firing and no idle,blown vacuum hoses off?

well my father dropped his charger off this morn about 10 put the charger on and just removed it now to pick up the missus and the indicator guage on the battery itself and went from black to green, but it didn't start that well once i reconnect the battery and almost stalled a few times coming to a complete stop..

so i will see if the stepfather has a multimeter and or test light to see what the battery is doing while car is running.

Test for injection pulse if it is constant when you get the engine running.
By disconnecting the battery every time you do that you reset the computer and when you go to start it,it will run rough till you relearn the memory in the ecu.

I brought a test light and multimeter and if i am doing it correctly it shows 14.3 (on DC setting) at the battery

Put the multimeter back on the battery, now turn your headlights on with the engine off. If the battery volts start dropping off quickly then the battery can't hold a current load. Need a new battery.....

The best way to test the battery is under a load situation.

With your multimeter bridged across the battery terminals observe the multimeter while you crank the engine if the volts drop below 9.8 - 10volts the batttery is no good.Light load

But if you want to test it under a full load situation put your headlights on and high beam and foot on the brake and your rear demister on and then crank it over and observe the volts.Heavy load

If you have a battery that you can check and top up the acid levels,observe the bars in the cells of the battery a worn out one will have distorted bars compared to a good one which will be straight.Also if you check the cells and one is down on level more than likely the battery wont last much longer or it has a dead cell.

Have you (removed and) cleaned the throttle body, replace plugs, leads and fuel filter?

Start with the usual service items and see how it starts then.

Old mate above mentioned a battery test. A drop to 9 volts is permissable while cranking. If the battery is more than 2 years old, it would be getting close to needing replacement, modern cars are heavy on the battery..

PM me and let me know how it goes.

Well I booked it in yesterday / friday to get the rear handbrake adjusted in my friendly machanic and and i had explained about the problems etc and he used his scan tool couldn't pick up any error codes or any history codes etc, he cleaned the throttle body and reset the isc and adjusteded it,

the whole idling problem is not completely gone but it isn't as noticable he concluded that i have a faulty power steering idle switch and that is making the idle wierd etc.

he didn't sort out the whole hard to start the car problem but the idle is fine but it is still a C*** (sorry ladies) to start.

I unplugged the power steering switch. and runs smooth and alike but it is still hard as all f**k to start the car, i am thinking it might be the ignition it self or a fuse or relay.

This is a Bump basically,

My AUII XR6 HP is a bugger start in the morning and when it has bee siting longer then say an hour. Once running not a drama. it trys to start but is acting like it is starved of fuel or not enough ignition source, I turn the key nothing a clicking noise (assume the relay working how is suppose to) then switch off then on it will try to start or will start then stall out seconds later, i have to feather the thorttle to get it running,

also when it fails to start it pops and backfires out the air box. I went to start it at on my lunch break to shoot home, wouldn't start then everything went blank as if a flat battery was the calprite, got the jump pack from work, started and reversed stalled it same drama, got it started once again,

drove it and it stallled while driving, chucked her in 2nd and dumped the clutch to roll start it was very sketchy on the way home.

got home let it run for 5 minutes and then missus turned it off, same drama woulnd't start or no lights etc etc dead. removed the batttery and then put it back in, no drama lights etc etc but failed to start, clicking and carrying on, no lights or info on odometer etc, played with the terminals and started it up, drove it and it was very doggy the revs sat between 1000 and 0

I removed the what i beleive is the idles postition sensor. sprayed it with silicone spray and when you try and start the car there is no click click situation but it does have trouble starting cranks and cranks no go. then it starts but when you drive and go down gears it goes down to 0 and almost stalls the car then pops up to 1000 again. and also there is f**k all accelration )well seems like it is wot all the time.

I booked it in to get the rear handbrake adjusted at my friendly machanic and i explained about the problems etc and he used his scan tool couldn't pick up any error codes or any history codes etc, couldn't find anything iffy with the fuel pressure as he put a pressure guage on it and then he cleaned the throttle body and reset the isc and adjusteded it to the OE settings,

the whole idling problem gone concluded that i have a faulty power steering idle switch and that is making the idle wierd i simply unplugged that. He didn't sort out the whole hard to start the car problem but the idle is fine but it is still a C*** (sorry ladies) to start. Now the car runs smooth and alike, BUT it is still hard as all f**k to start the car, i am thinking it might be the ignition it self or a fuse or relay

So back to start of the story sort off, i crank and crank and crank and once started i have to feather the throttle and give a rev etc, it is acting like if the imboiliser is on.

ford-4l-and-6-cylinder-f1/auii-car-drama-t74962.html

car is still f**k ed lol.

This is probably gonna sound weird, but I have seen a car with the same issues, problem turned out to be the key on the cam gear was damaged, retarding the hell out of the cam. It may be worth lifting your rocker cover and checking that out. if you have backfire on startup it sounds like the cam timing has moved if you have already messed around with alot of other stuff this may be worth loking at..

Dave

trolling...