my eb switches the fuel pump off when i go over to lpg..
but it does start on petrol and switches over either in 30 seconds or if the car is revved.
doesnt matter if its hot or cold either.

im yet to figure out where the intercept is as i've had the rear looms out recently.
my isc also seems to be connected with no issues atm. but being a sprint gas processor i'm leaving it alone till it needs to be screwed with

i agree with tickford6. it can create problems too being only on infrequently.
my eb s is my first lpg powered car that it switches the pump off.. all the others keep running.
and in all the years i had the constant on setup. i had to replace 1 pump out of my own stupidity running low on fuel

I think you can ecu-fuel-system-eec-f21/tuning-your-falcon-with-a-t-i-performance-j3-chip-t68577-975.html . PM Jason and ask him.
Otherwise, keep the resistors in place and run auto maps (later Ghia ECU revision 'C') and adjust the dashpot settings.
Have you tried making gaskets out of cardboard (cereal boxes )and adjusting hole sizes one by one
? - I started with 2 x 5mm holes and found making one hole 6mm worked well - no flaring, and just enough control to resist stalling when cold. I does stall sometimes on LPG when cold - adjusting the dashpot would help here.
I found with the ISC disconnected, gear changes weren't as good, as the throttle wants to snap close without that buffer from the ISC - might just be me though

Hi,

Had some other thoughts..... As mentioned you can put some disks in the ISC tube, with the holes off center. By twisting you adjust the hole size, and airflow. For a cold start you can have a cable to slightly open the butterfly, ( like a choke ) or a solenoid to do it running off the temp sensor to turn off. The next thought is an aftermarket cruise control. If you connect it to the dizzy pulse it will regulate the minimum engine RPM. Cheaper to buy than build form scratch. You can make it auto set from a timer, or if you dont have a wagon use the rear wiper switch position. You can set the speed each time doing this, so you can have it run fast for a warm-up.

Regards 96ELGli

OK.

I'm going to try a few different things and see what works for me..

I also have a blos LPG carby here to go in.. I don't know how that will effect the idle as it changes lots of things. (for example according to the instructions I can remove the steeper motor once I have the gas carby in place.)

My car never stalls once it has warmed up, the air con and power steering don't make much difference.. maybe drops 50rpm... and the slight accelerator lag after throttle down annoyed the he11 out of me until I disconnected the ISC.. Didn't seem to effect my manual gear changes in any negative way.. but I suspect that has more to do with my driving style than anything else.

Nah mate, my one hunts idle below 1000. Anyway, set it to work the idle control at 1200 or below, and turn the idle control off at 1201 or above. If your car is "idling" at 1000 then that is an issue I would have thought.

I connected mine again since reading this thread, just to see what would happen. Works fine most of the time, but gave me a shock when changing from fourth to fifth out the motorway... Just about shot up someones bum as when engaging fifth the revs were still up (idle control was a bit open)....

Left it plugged in for another day, but it is now unplugged permanently until such time as a switch of some sort is installed.

It is annoying without the idle control when starting the car and driving up a bloody steep drive to leave my apartment complex each morning and then through town in stop start traffic. But, once car is a little warmer, the long headers going through the mandrel 2.5" with the J3 running the Wade 1673 has a nice idle noise..........