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Ctchme |
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Hey guys, am facing a slight dilemma with my car, I need to replace my rear main seal, I have been quoted 350 to replace it, but can get a reco ef engine for 300 and I can fit it. What would everyone else recommend??
_________________ EFII Fairmont (XH00NR) - K & N apollo enclosed pod filter, Megasquirt 2 Ecu controlling fuel, 350 cc injectors flowed out 420cc, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, J3 chip with custom transmittion map, BA XR6 front seats. Turbo setup in the works. |
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79 raven |
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I had the same dilemma with doing the head gasket on my Ef. Gasket change for around $2000 or a second hand Au engine installed for $1300. Thing is it depends on what work you have done to your current motor and how long you have owned it. You may get a second hand motor for $300 and in a month the rear main goes or it lasts for 10 years with no drama. You may keep your current motor and do the seal to find that motor goes in a month.
What I come to the conclusion of is its sometimes better the devil you know. Your choice though |
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80crm |
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If you can refit a replacement engine, then why can't you do the rear main yourself? A rear main seal will only cost you $15-$20 depending on where you buy it.
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79 raven |
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80crm wrote: If you can refit a replacement engine, then why can't you do the rear main yourself? A rear main seal will only cost you $15-$20 depending on where you buy it. I thought the same, but maybe he is comfortable replacing a box and donk but not so in doing a rear main? Everyone has there limits. Ill pull an engine out but I wont touch a timing chain |
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Ctchme |
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79raven wrote: 80crm wrote: If you can refit a replacement engine, then why can't you do the rear main yourself? A rear main seal will only cost you $15-$20 depending on where you buy it. I thought the same, but maybe he is comfortable replacing a box and donk but not so in doing a rear main? Everyone has there limits. Ill pull an engine out but I wont touch a timing chain That's it, I'm comfortable replacing engine and gearbox as a unit, but have never done a rear main. If anyone has done it in the past and lives near Gosford NSW, I'd be happy to learn, maybe even give them a case of beer/alcoholic beverage/other beverage haha and petrol money of course
_________________ EFII Fairmont (XH00NR) - K & N apollo enclosed pod filter, Megasquirt 2 Ecu controlling fuel, 350 cc injectors flowed out 420cc, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, J3 chip with custom transmittion map, BA XR6 front seats. Turbo setup in the works. |
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SWC |
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Drop the box out, remove the flex plate and dig out the rear main seal and knock the new one in. While you are at it replace the rear welch plug and do the front seal on your auto.
The reason for $350.00 is that they have to drop the box out to do it. Ctchme wrote: 79raven wrote: 80crm wrote: If you can refit a replacement engine, then why can't you do the rear main yourself? A rear main seal will only cost you $15-$20 depending on where you buy it. I thought the same, but maybe he is comfortable replacing a box and donk but not so in doing a rear main? Everyone has there limits. Ill pull an engine out but I wont touch a timing chain That's it, I'm comfortable replacing engine and gearbox as a unit, but have never done a rear main. If anyone has done it in the past and lives near Gosford NSW, I'd be happy to learn, maybe even give them a case of beer/alcoholic beverage/other beverage haha and petrol money of course So true. 79raven wrote: I had the same dilemma with doing the head gasket on my Ef. Gasket change for around $2000 or a second hand Au engine installed for $1300. Thing is it depends on what work you have done to your current motor and how long you have owned it. You may get a second hand motor for $300 and in a month the rear main goes or it lasts for 10 years with no drama. You may keep your current motor and do the seal to find that motor goes in a month. What I come to the conclusion of is its sometimes better the devil you know. Your choice though If you are putting in a replacemnet motor you would change the rear main before you put it in, as well as the welch plugs and sump gasket. |
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79 raven |
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SWC wrote: If you are putting in a replacement motor you would change the rear main before you put it in, as well as the welch plugs and sump gasket. Very true, but I think the bloke was going to do a complete engine/box swap. Maybe doing it while the engines out would be manageable for you Ctchme ( I think SWC is referring to this). That way if it takes you a day or a month you still have wheels. That and if you go to a point where your stuck you still have wheels too. Good idea to get it done anyway. Sump gaskets more expensive to get done than a rear main seal at the workshops. Its really not that difficult, even easier when its on a stand....But in saying that I still would not touch a timing belt. f**k it up once before and it was easy to f**k it up so now I just dont go there. You, mate if you have the space and can handle the oil stains for a while I'd buy the donk if its in good nick. Drop it on a stand and research on here. Trust the Fordmodders for help, even info on a thread can make the difference. Fix the new donk up and then drop it in. Head gasket, the more likely to leak seals, welch's etc. Then you got a hassle free future on the donk at least. |
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