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Motor goes in tomorrow arvo, lets hope its an easy, quick job!
Anyone swapped a BA motor over before and want to give me some pointers?
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Well, didn't do the motor yesterday, it got to 42c so we postponed it... I did however do an emergency clutch replacement on an AU2 XR6 that had its thrust bearing seize and rip half the teeth off the pressure plate.
Took me and Simon L about 4 hours all up. My mate gave me a 30mm whiteline swaybar as payment, I'll be fitting that soon, hopefully it improves my boat handling a bit!
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somethings missing:
 Should hopefully get it all finished by mid arvo tomorrow. It was a mission getting the engine AND transmission out in one piece with only 2 jack stands and an engine crane  managed to bend both the radiator support and the firewall, just trying to get the damn thing out. Oh well, nothing I can't fix. Cant wait to drive it without TICKTICKTICKTICKTICK*misfire*TICKTICK*misfire*TICKTICK
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not to mention not using 70 bucks worth of petrol in 5 days just putting around town.
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I quite like the g6 rims on ba's one of the guys i work with has a blue ba xr8 and just fitted g6 wheels. Looks quite alright! He picked them up from the tyre shop across the rd for cheap as the old guy who owned them downgraded to smaller rims as the 19's were too rough for him. Also the chrome grille surround sets it off in a subtle kind of way.
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{USERNAME} wrote: I quite like the g6 rims on ba's one of the guys i work with has a blue ba xr8 and just fitted g6 wheels. Looks quite alright! He picked them up from the tyre shop across the rd for cheap as the old guy who owned them downgraded to smaller rims as the 19's were too rough for him. Also the chrome grille surround sets it off in a subtle kind of way. The G6ET wheels are so cheap. these ones are genuine ford ones, I bought them brand new at about $250ish each from memory. I do like the chrome grille, that also was a brand new genuine item (at over $300!!!), that and the BF Fairmont boot garnish are the only chrome bits I intend to put on the car, not a huge fan of it but subtle bits are nice.
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My work mate paid 200 a rim but he had to buy 5 rims as they wouldnt sell him 4 haha and they were genuine too.
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{USERNAME} wrote: My work mate paid 200 a rim but he had to buy 5 rims as they wouldnt sell him 4 haha and they were genuine too. yeah theyre cheap as chips.... which probably wont help when i go to sell them 
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So, after getting the old motor out, I think I found the source of the ticking noise that was bugging me so much:
 that is number 6 spark plug. the coil was covered in brown dust and the top of the spark plug came out with the coil. So Im assuming that it arced out on the rocker cover causing the TICK TICK TICK. Plug tube 1 and 2 were full of oil, presumably coming from the VCT actuators which had failed. I thought i had pics of them but i dont.  New motor going in.  all bolted and plugged in, ready to be started. {DESCRIPTION} Video of the first startup. Sounds like it hadnt been started in a good few years lol... injectors mustve been gummed up.  all finished! It drives so much better now! Also fitted the 30mm Swaybar i got, makes a huge difference to handling.
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gee that took ages to start haha, maybe swap all your old injectors regulator etc over and it may have started up easier hah. Good that it runs though..
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yeah the pressure reg on my old motor is almost brand new... but the guys that took the motor out of the car at the wreckers bent the little thing it sits in.... so I'll probably swap the fuel rails over next.
Theres a bottle of Nulon Trade Strength fuel system cleaner in the tank though so it should revive the injectors. I doubt the 320,000km old ones in the old motor are any good so if these ones are stuffed aswell I'll just grab a changeover set from work and throw them in. But theyre holding up fine now.
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Well it seems to be holding up well after a few hundred kms.
Athol Park Ford Wreckers got me a good one, if anyone here works there, cheers! Next thing is definitely make the exhaust louder, got a quote for about 130 bucks for the local exhaust shop to create a "third section" of exhaust that basically consists of a flange after the section that goes over the IRS, and a piece of 2.5'' pipe made up so basically I can easily swap rear sections (for highway driving etc) without the painful task of maneuvering the whole rear piece through that tiny space. hopefully that should satisfy me a bit more 
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Good work mate.
Is the front swaybar you scored an adjustable one? If so, have you set it to the softest setting? You might want to get the 22mm rear too, otherwise you'll find the car may understeer in situations a lot more often than factory setup; roundabouts', in the wet... Once you've done both, you'll notice how much more increased grip there is to the 'inside wheels' when cornering. Much flatter, safer, enjoyable drive than stock. |
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Yeah a 22mm rear will be the next thing I get for it.
The front was just a solid non-adjustable one, it definitely makes navigating spoon drains and driveways a slower exercise lol
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Yep, and when you get the rear one, you'll have the rear inside wheel up in the air
 But it's worth it for outright handling, best mod for a big car. |
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