|
MoNGooSE |
|
|||
|
Morning Gents.
Just bought myself an el' cheapo XF Ghia Update Wagon with all the bells and whistles as a runabout. Beautiful car in OK condition, factory 5 speed and all the stuff you want on a workhorse. Most of the electrics work bar the following; - Cruise control does not seem to work- Trip computer flickers occaisonally so that may be the cause? - As of this morning the fan seems to be blowing on the windscreen and will not change to face etc. - RHR Electric window goes down but not up - broken gear? I'd appreciate any help on these issues. I'm not looking to pour money into it but it'd be nice to have everything working...
_________________ EF GT6 - 129.4rwkw - Feautured in Street Fords Issue #77 |
|||
Top | |
Matt_jew |
|
||
|
The heater controls are vacuum operated so start checking for leaks etc behind the glove box.
_________________ {USERNAME} wrote: More people paid for a ride in a VT commodore then an AU Falcon so the VT is superior.
Based on that fact my Mum is the best around! |
||
Top | |
MoNGooSE |
|
|||
|
I was afraid you'd say that...
_________________ EF GT6 - 129.4rwkw - Feautured in Street Fords Issue #77 |
|||
Top | |
Nigel |
|
||
|
Cruise control - could be the brake circuit.
Does your Trip Computer "Brake" light come on every time you hit the brake pedal? - Do your brake lights actually work? - There are two switches and they dont usually fail together. The trip computer is known to fail and isnt actually repairable (You can bypass this part), but if its failed your brake lights wont work without using the trailer wiring at the back. Cruise control may or may not be related to all of that. Dont pull your Dash apart. The Vacuum on the ghia's is all switched in the left hand pod, and if you cant hear an airleak then thats unlikely the problem. It sounds like your actual vacuum source (The engine) isnt connected. There are two (3?) vacuum lines that go from the engine bay to the inside of the dash, up the back of the engine bay on the passenger side (near where the EFI Wiring goes, around where the A/C Pipes come out of the passenger compartment). One goes to the heater tap, one to the engine, and one might go to a vacuum reservoir under the plennum for the Cruise control. Make sure they are all connected. Then remove the glovebox (open it, and lift directly toward you) and make sure that the coloured vacuum lines are plugged together (You'll see them). If thats sorted, then yes you have problems, and its most likely a dash-out job but you should find someone who knows what theyre doing. For the window regulator - Check it its the switch first - do BOTH switches not work (Drivers switch, and the one on the door), or just one? - if its just one then your just looking to figure out which switch isnt working and replace it. If they BOTH dont work, then... Its most likely that your motor has burned out either the three rollers, or the geared wheel which drives the regulator. This part is replaceable on the motor. Its a bit of work, but you need to undo the motor from the regulator (Carefull - theres a spring there which can really damage your hand.... better looking at a complete assembly out of the car). Once the motor is out, disassemble it, and put on of these kits in it. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Power-Window ... 27cf6513f9 Service the rest (Correct lubrication), then carefully put it back in and if your lucky most of your problems are gone. Nigel |
||
Top | |
MoNGooSE |
|
|||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: Cruise control - could be the brake circuit. Does your Trip Computer "Brake" light come on every time you hit the brake pedal? - Do your brake lights actually work? - There are two switches and they dont usually fail together. The trip computer is known to fail and isnt actually repairable (You can bypass this part), but if its failed your brake lights wont work without using the trailer wiring at the back. Cruise control may or may not be related to all of that. LH and RH brake lights work but centre one does not. Not sure if it was meant to as it looked a little like a aftermarket job. "BRAKE LAMPS" comes up on the test panel every time I press the brake pedal. {USERNAME} wrote: Dont pull your Dash apart. The Vacuum on the ghia's is all switched in the left hand pod, and if you cant hear an airleak then thats unlikely the problem. It sounds like your actual vacuum source (The engine) isnt connected. There are two (3?) vacuum lines that go from the engine bay to the inside of the dash, up the back of the engine bay on the passenger side (near where the EFI Wiring goes, around where the A/C Pipes come out of the passenger compartment). One goes to the heater tap, one to the engine, and one might go to a vacuum reservoir under the plennum for the Cruise control. Make sure they are all connected. Then remove the glovebox (open it, and lift directly toward you) and make sure that the coloured vacuum lines are plugged together (You'll see them). If thats sorted, then yes you have problems, and its most likely a dash-out job but you should find someone who knows what theyre doing. Will check all this next I get a chance. Just very weird that it just stopped working a mere 24 hours after it was working a treat. {USERNAME} wrote: For the window regulator - Check it its the switch first - do BOTH switches not work (Drivers switch, and the one on the door), or just one? - if its just one then your just looking to figure out which switch isnt working and replace it. If they BOTH dont work, then... Its most likely that your motor has burned out either the three rollers, or the geared wheel which drives the regulator. This part is replaceable on the motor. Its a bit of work, but you need to undo the motor from the regulator (Carefull - theres a spring there which can really damage your hand.... better looking at a complete assembly out of the car). Once the motor is out, disassemble it, and put on of these kits in it. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Power-Window ... 27cf6513f9 Service the rest (Correct lubrication), then carefully put it back in and if your lucky most of your problems are gone. 99% sure it's not switch as both switches do the same thing. I can put the window down but down it stays. I then have to lift it back up to the top and tape it there. Will check this as well next I get a chance. (And I thought replacing the E-series ones was a b**ch!)
_________________ EF GT6 - 129.4rwkw - Feautured in Street Fords Issue #77 |
|||
Top | |
Nigel |
|
||
|
Dont get disheartened. So for the A/C - its most likely the Vacuum line from the engine. when it disconnects, you just get demister. Actually it happens in all falcons from XD to at least EF
The window isnt terrible either - but it does sound like the rollers and the brake light warning coming on means its already been bypassed. The rest of the "Fix" is to just remove the brake warning globe, and accept it doesnt work. The XF always had an aftermarket looking High-Mount. I think they were only compulsory around 86 or something. I used a wagon one on my XF (sedan) - is that an option - they at least look like theyre meant to be there. That just leaves the cruise. And being honest - the EB Cruise was streets in front of the XF stuff - I think it could be retro-fitted really easilly. Of course, my XF has an EL steering column and wiring, and Im planning on using the EL Cruise motor if I can find somewhere nice for it to live. Nigel |
||
Top | |
cjh |
|
|||
|
High mount brake lights weren't an ADR requirement in a Ford till 1989.
1988 EA's don't have them.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
|||
Top | |
MAD |
|
|||
|
Can you hear the motor winding on the window when you push 'up'?
If not, then it is electrical. The window reg set up on the XF was pretty simple. No cables,, no pulleys, just a gear driving another gear. One way for up, the other way for down. |
|||
Top | |
Nigel |
|
||
|
Yes - except if the roller wear out (they do) then the motor will wind almost silently with no load on it and just slip... hence the rebuilt kits now available.
Nigel |
||
Top | |
MAD |
|
|||
|
Weird they call them rollers, when they don't roll.
As long as the gear teeth are fine, you can fill the empty space in the gear with something hard to replace the 'rollers'. I used knead-it to repair mine when that happened. Either way, you will still be able to hear the motor. They aren't the quietest of things. |
|||
Top | |
MoNGooSE |
|
|||
|
I can hear the motor.
Air con is fixed. There were two vacuum hoses off under the bonnet. Will tackle cruise control next.
_________________ EF GT6 - 129.4rwkw - Feautured in Street Fords Issue #77 |
|||
Top | |
snap0964 |
|
|||
|
A guide on how to overhaul the motors - pity they f*cked up the pics.
documents.php?d=81
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
|||
Top | |
XHR6 |
|
||
|
Hey bud, replace the cruise control senser that joins upto the brake booster. replaced mine on a XH and fixed the issue.
_________________ XHI Tickford XR6, 5 speed, Wade 977b@110 + Cam Gear , Pacemaker 4480, 100c Cat, 2 1/2"CB, |
||
Top | |
Who is online |
---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 16 guests |