Hi all just bought a BF xr8 ute and im looking to install a sub and amp and front speakers whilst keeping the stock h/u. Anyone have any suggestions on what to buy. I have a budget of $1100. I mostly listen to rock and rap. Thanks for your help

i was thinking of these speakers http://www.ryda.com.au/JL-Audio-C3570-5 ... /c3570.htm
but wasnt sure if it would be better to run 6" speakers.

and also looking at one of these http://www.ryda.com.au/Pioneer-IBF3001S ... 3001s2.htm
but wasnt sure if it would be better to go a 10" sub.

As for the amp not sure what i need to go for.

Ok dude. Ive been around the audio traps a while and I STRONGLY recommend not to waste your money on those Jl speakers. From what I understand the doors in the Bf are factory 6.5", Id save myself a s**t load of money of inferior speakers that will need modding and buy these
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.as ... TID=1027#4
The Response speakers are award winning speakers and will blow your mind, not your budget. Also, the idea of having either 6x9's,7x10' or 5x7's is to add extra surface area for bass to compensate for the lack of a woofer. Your installing a woofer, so whats the point with the 5x7's? Ask any serious audio bloke about the Kevlar Response 6.5" components or do a search on the net. Best speakers around in my option and the best bang for buck for sure.
You buy those response for under $90. that leaves you over $230 to put back into the system compared to the JL's, either dynamat the doors and spend the rest on an amp/deck/woofer upgrade ( what every one you like).
One last thing, Response amps are the s**t too. Jaycar sells allot of REALLY good car audio stuff and are not just some teenager selling speakers by brand like most audio shops ( JB a big one for it). Most Jaycar workers have either Electrical qualifications or similar. Hell, there is a bloke at Jaycar Penrith who works weekends and is a Uni Professor in audio. Dont get sucked into names mate, go for quality and you'll win hands down price and quality wise.

Brilliant cheers. My next question is can i find an amp that i can hook up a sub and the fronts into or will i need to run a 2 amp setup?

If you want your fronts and a sub or run off the same amp, what you need is a bridgeable amp. Most are, but the amp will say it is a 2/3/4 channel amp and say its bridgeable. What it means by bridgeable is you can connect 2 channels to make 1 channel output.
So, you get a 4 channel amp thats bridgeable. Run front and rear rca cables from the back of your deck and plug the fronts and rears into the amp. Then you run each left/right front channel to the left and right speakers accordingly. Then, and this will depend on what amp you buy and what the amp says about bridging connection, you run the positive of maybe channel 3 and the negative of channel 4 to the sub. The actual speaker wire connections of 4 and 4 channel will depend on what the amp you buy says.
Hope that makes sense
This is all I could find on the net diagram wise.
This is what you will do

and this is what the amp will say

I can vouch for the Response range of audio gear. Wish I had discovered them earlier, I would have saved a lot of money.

Just put the 6.5" coaxials in my EB. Awesome.

{DESCRIPTION}

{DESCRIPTION}

This response amp would be more than enough for you. It will power the 75w rms speakers ( even the JL's) and leave you with 300w rms for a sub.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RESPONSE-AA- ... 5655b3c3a8
One thing too, I dont know if you know this but when people say they have 300w speakers most of the time its classed as PMPO not RMS. PMPO is the maximum the speaker can handle before frying, dont listen to it. RMS is constant power output and what the speaker/amp will actually produce.
Another good one is decks that say they produce 50wX4, load of s**t. Read the manuals and it will normally say the constant power outputs maybe 25w rms at best. Same with amps, dont buy a 2000w amp expecting 2000w.

They are soooo good hey. Cheap compared to the brand names like Pioneer/Kenwood/Sounstream etc and when you first hook them up and test them the smiles they give are priceless. Real quality

Thanks for the help guys, last questions i swear. If the amp is 4 ohms bridged what does that mean when the sub is 2 ohms and max of 300wrms. Does that mean it wont handle the power? Also i assume there wont be a sub out in the back of the icc is there a way to wire this up? Lastly do response do component speakers or will the coaxial be a better fit for the system?

Last edited by stixinc on Mon Apr 29, 2013 8:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.

You will have to make sure your amp can handle 2ohm ( will say 2 ohm stable). If you have an amp right now, drop us a model number and Ill do my best to find some info.
What you need to to with the stock ICC is buy one of these
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/High-Speaker ... 2ec405ef4e
Ebays cheap, but you have to wait for postage from over sea's. Jaycar and a few auto shops have them for around $20. The ones at the local auto shops and jaycar normally look like this
Jaycars
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=AA0482
similar to what Supercheap and car shops have
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-Channel-Ad ... 4172ab9b63
What you do with that is run the front speaker wire outputs to the converter, then the rca's from the converter to the amp. Then you run the wires from the amp to your front speakers. The sub will run from the rca's connected directly from the rear of the ICC ( If they have one).

hello, i am also setting up my audio in my ute as well. quick question, would an active hi low converter be better than the passive one on that ebay link ?