Hey guys I've had this problem ever since I've owned the car and ever since have tried everything to fix it with no luck. The heater's only blowing out lukewarm air and it's got me by until now but with the cold weather hitting and all I really need to find out what's causing it and I've tried a lot of things over time to try and fix this but haven't really got anywhere.

1. I replaced the thermostat (91 degree, tested in boiling water and works) (It sits just below the N on the gauge)
2. Replaced the heater tap (old one corroded)
3. Recalibrated blend door motor (could hear it moving when I calibrate, pretty sure it's not broken as my vents all work perfectly)
4. Drained and flushed cooling system, reverse flushed block and heater core twice now (lots of orange rust in heater core and radiator the first time, the cooling system was poorly maintained).
5. Felt both heater hoses and while one is slightly colder than the other they seem ok (I can barely hold my hand on them. Any hotter and I'd have to let go after a few seconds).
6. tested for vacuum leaks with gauge and readings are within normal specs/no vacuum leaks
7. Recirc flap is broken in closed position but shouldn't affect anything

It's on LPG and I've read this can possibly affect the the heater as the converter taps into the cooling system. Should I look into re plumbing the converter? I don't really want to start taking shots in the dark though.. i've read every thread on the topic and tried everything.. Only thing left is the heater core right? But those hoses are hot so it's getting a strong supply of hot coolant. I'm stumped! Can anyone help me here I'm freezing!!!

so the water pump works well?

with the gas system in the curcuit [hoses] does the heater still get the coolant straight from the motor?


not sure if the heater works in my EB [on gas] or how its conected lol

More likely blend door issue. Broken shaft could explain it....
If you've got good flow through your heater core, it's about the only thing left in line between you and toastyness!!
Vents working don't indicate an operational blend door....

I think the water pump is fine as coolant's cycling and the car isn't overheating (any way to check it properly without draining the coolant?). I'd bet it's corroded like everything else in the cooling system has been lol but it works.

There's 2 hoses off the lpg converter, one plumbed into the thermostat housing (pretty sure this does go to the heater) and the other end goes to solid heater pipe that goes all around the motor. Not sure what it's meant to be like without lpg but it looks like the converter has been plumbed in between the thermostat housing and the heat core.. As I'm pretty sure the heater hoses plug into that solid pipe somewhere, and the converter's sitting between that pipe and the thermostat housing, theoretically sapping heat. But I don't think this would be the underlying problem somehow as thousands of e series on lpg must be plumbed like this, I'm pretty sure my old ED was and the heater in that was HOT.

I had another look at the blend door motor and while I can hear it moving it sounds dodgy... Like it's struggling or trying to run off a flat battery. I've calibrated it in diagnostic mode a few times and it's never helped much, diagnosis shows no faults whatsoever. I've never got the E2 error. Basically I initiate climate diagnostics, hear the blend door move for a bit, then it finishes and I turn the car on to find the heater temp is reset to 22c. Which is normal. Is there a chance it could still be stuffed There really isn't anything else left to replace besides that and the core.

Hi,

The needle in the gauge should sit in the middle of the scale. If it doesn't the water is warm, not hot and it will make a huge difference to the / heater demister. I have a similar issue, and have replaced the thermostat twice, and both tested fine out of the car. Normally the heater bypasses the radiator, as design regs say the demister has to work within a certain time after starting. Good luck with it.

Regards 96ELGli

Actually, that is dependant on the calibration of the guage. I have a 180°F thermostat in my EB, and the guage sits at the first line. My heater works fine.

I was looking at it before and the heater hose with the tap in it is a little colder than the other hoses, it's pretty hot at both ends (thermo housing/heater core) but only warm in the middle really.

Can I check the heater tap without draining the coolant? I only put a new one in a year ago and the heaters never worked so it should not be the tap. I'm thinking the pipe could be blocked? Seems strange to me

Ok think I found the problem. The heater taps getting no vacuum, the hose is connected but I took it off and there's no suction whatsoever... and the hose is green in colour looks like it's been replaced by the previous owner. Where does the other end of this hose run to? I'm taking out the wiper bottle atm to take a look but it looks as though it goes through to the dash lol, but I'm hoping the vacuum motor as that sits behind there too!

Did you check for vacuum with the heater in both cold and hot positions? I can't remember which way it is other than the opposite to what I expected when I tested mine.

Actually just went and checked mine, there is vacuum when on cold and no vacuum on hot.

think there are two/three small diameter hoses that go thru the firewall ... they were conected to the heater/aircon but what they connected to in the engine bay??

yeah haha turns out the vacuum is working fine. tried it with the heater off and got suction Could it be the blend door? I can hear it moving all the time and it's really weak sounding but I get no errors in diagnostics mode, pretty sure that means it's working.. I get no aircon either but always thought I needed a regas.