As best as I could measure mine without actually firing the motor up I reckon my phasor is giving 6 degrees at the cam... But That is just me measuring it as best I could with what I had...

The switch is tuneable... All you do is feed a frequency of sorts and say at what exact frequency do you want it to operate at... You hold revs and wind the pots until you hear the relay click and set it there... It also a hysteresis setting too (jaycar kit that is)...

I run an EL computer so mine is spliced into the SPOUT wire which dives the tacho... On the EF you'd wire it into the tach out on the computer...

Mine would benefit from 2500 revs but the issue then lies if you are driving at 110km/hr and the tach is above the set point the solenoid is closed and being loaded up with pressure (unless it just redirects into the front housing Troy?)... And so many VCT solenoids seem to leak through the pins like the power steering switches do that I think adding pressure to it like that for so long would only enhace the solenoid failing... Just can't remember what revs I do at 110 with the manual and 3.45's now...

As far as I'm aware the NLA through Ford... And probably nothing can be sourced to replace it?

Cheers,
Tim

How do you measure the cam?


As I've said I'm not the best with electrical jargon so I'm abit lost here sorry. How is it done, how do you give it a frequency and what do you mean by POTS??


Would you know what number wire the tacho out is? Ill have a flick through my manual and see if it shows it in there.


I get where your coming from here just seems that everyone's having issues at the rated 3000rpm.


Is that the phaser switch your saying is NLA?

You are measuring how much the phasor moves the cam in degrees... To measure it I used a cordless drill to drive the oil pump and managed to get good rpms on the drill which the engine would idle at roughly... I pulled all the plugs out to relieve compression... While driving the oil pump I had someone crank the motor over for about 10 to 20 seconds to feed pressure into the phasor and cause the cam to advance...

Then stopping cranking the engine and stopped driving oil pressure... I marked the harmonic balancer with a pen on masking tape, just lining up the TDC mark... I then rotated the balancer until the cam shaft began moving and marked the tape again... I removed the tape and laid it flat and measured the distance between the marks... Then using circle geometry I converted that to degrees at the crank and it was 12 degrees the crank moved before taking the camshaft with it when retarding... This is halved at the cam then giving 6 degrees... Ford specified 10 degrees cam... I measured 6... And measured it twice for some sort of accuracy... It proves nothing... Just me adding on to Troy's remarks above...

The switch comes with instructions on how to set it up... From memory it has three pots on it... One a***, one fine, one hysteresis... Pots are potentiometers... They are an electrical component and the variation used in this kits are either precision pots or trimpots... Can't remember now... If you are going this path and going to build the jarcar kit you'll need to know what all the components are so you can solder it together... Resistors, diodes, transistors, pots, IC's, etc... If you don't want to build the jaycar kit for 40 bucks or whatever it is, MSD build something I think but being MSD it is probably like $400 instead...

I know nothing at all about EF's... I run EL gear... EF runs a 104 pin ECU with coil packs while EL runs a 60 pins ECU with a dizzy... It should up on the cluster page as that's where the tach wire would run to... Then that wire colour should be also in the ECU connector...

The solenoid that drives oil pressure is NLA... When it was I feel it was worth lots and lots... The day mine goes I don't know what I'll do... Maybe delete the plug by soldering wires to the terminals and filling the plug hole up with electrical resin, then the bastard wont leak again... Maybe able to dismantle it too... Haven't needed to yet...

The timing hasn't been upset in that VCT motor you got has it? They're a bugger to time... I'll get round to building my new VCT motor one day I guess... Maybe after I put my shed up... :/ Damn time and money...

Cheers,
Tim

The factory switchover point probably has more to do with emissions and / or economy than performance - so it wouldn't be at all surprising if fairly decent performance improvement can be achieved by changing it.

when I first fit the vct engine in my ed I had it hooked to bbm trigger and it felt late, you could feel torque drop off before the switchover, so I hooked it up to the rpm switch and set it at the factory 3000 rpm and the torque and power felt continuous..

although I never really went lower than the 3000 rpm switch over

From what I believe it hasn't been touched besides the sump



Think ill have to buy an rpm switch and go from there, still got a couple weeks before the motor will be going in so ill be buy everything I need for it by than.

At the moment I'm cleaning the motor as its filthy and after removing the corroded welsh plugs iv noticed there's alot of crap in there, I'm thinking of putting the hose into the welsh plug hole in hopes it will flush most of it out the front. But I want to know if it would be ok to put degreaser or a cleaning agent of some sort in before hosing it all out??

If so any suggestions on what to use??