ford-4l-and-6-cylinder-f1/dropping-a-naked-au-engine-into-an-el-t96815.html

Things reqired to fit AU engine to EF/EL

1) sump needs to be modified to fit K-Frame, you can cut and weld the K-Frame but that is up to you, will need engineering after being cut. You cannot use an EF/EL sump as the sump is totally different to AU.

2) Need to use AU/BF alternator or you will need to modify the block and drill and tap mount points to mount the EF/EL alternator.
If you use an AU I alternator you will need to change the plug for the alternator to one from an AUI as these are different from the Mitsubishi alternators.
Note: Believe that the AUII & III and BA alternators have the same plug as EF/EL.

3) Remove the block where the Dizzy (EL) or cam sensor (EF) goes and remove the gear from the shaft and fit to your Dizzy (EL) or Cam Sensor (EF). This will then mean that the gears are matching and you should have no issues, there have been issues with dizzys failing when this has not been done. Some modding will be requiered to use the existing mount point, extra notch/gring Cam sensor.
Note:Do not try and drill hole in existing EF position on AU block, you will drill through the block.

4) You will need to use a EF/EL thermostat housing as these have your temp sensor and AU housings do not.

5) You will need to use the EF/EL BBM as the uppers are different to the AU. Also us the EF/EL throttle body as some of the plugs are different to the AU.

6) Use the EF/EL wiring loom.

7) You will need to tap the block with an M12 1.5 tap if using the EF/EL Knock sensor. If using the AU sensor you will need to modify the plug.

8) a) You will need to cut the EF/EL AC pump mount spacers down to 30mm to suit the AU block as well as shortening the bolts by 10mmm if using the AU alternator to suit the standard serpentine belt.
b) If using the EF/EL alternator with modified mounts you will not need to cut down the mounts and be able to use the standard Serpentine belt.
c) Alternativly you can use the AU alternator , standard AC spacers and a Serpentine belt from an XH (Slightly longer).

9) Use the EF/EL power steering pump. This is a direct bolt up. The AU pump hose connection is different to the EF/EL.

10) You do not need to change the Harmonic balancer for either EL (Dizzy) or EF Coil Pack.

11) If fitting to EF you will need to use your original Coil Pack or an AUI coil pack as these are different to AUII & III. (different plug)

12) you can use the AU head or fit you EF/EL head, that is up to you.

Cutting AU Sump V Cutting K Frame;

a) Cutting the sump does not effect the intergrity of the moter or the chassis, you would be lucky to loose 300ml of oil capacity. As for going through motors, once the sump is cut you can reuse it at the cost of a sump gasket.

b) Cutting the K Frame effects the structural integrity of the front end, If you have an accident and it is spotted by the Insurance Company you are stuffed and leaves you open to all sorts of legal charges from the Police. If someone was killed in the accident you may find yourself on a manslaughter charge if not murder. If you think that cutting the K Frame and just welding it is all that is needed think again. When welded there are weak points on either side of the weld and theses need to be treated accordingly and then you need to have the car engineered. Cut sump no such issues.

Look at the difference in size and strength of the K Frame from an EB and an EF. Do you think Ford would do such an upgrade unless there were improvements to be had. Car manufacturers are tight a*** they spent nothing unless they have too. The EF front end is a big improvement in strength and stability over the EB type K Frame.

The guy I spoke to re putting an AU engine in said pretty much the exact same thing. His price included the sump and alternator bracket mods, supply of the motor, and and drive in drive out fitting so I guess it's not an overly exorbitant price for the work being done. Yes it would be a lot cheaper to DIY, but it's not really an option for me.

However... this engines behavior is becoming stranger and stranger. Got her going again and took her very carefully for a drive around the block a few times to see if I could figure this problem out.
First few minutes were fine, ran like nothing was wrong. Then the temp shot (and I mean SHOT) up and she started her hissy fits and lost all oil pressure again (in the space of about 10 - 15 seconds). Happily I was only just around the corner from home so I rolled into the shed and she coughed and shuddered to a halt. Popped the bonnet and discovered coolant pissing out from the overflow.
I've let her cool down and I've refilled the coolant. Cant see any leaks anywhere.
I now have a sinking feeling she may have done a head gasket on top of whatever problems she had before.

Well this keeps geting better and better.... and stranger.

Today I took the rocker cover off to check for any unpleasantness like broken rocker arms etc.. Had my eldest boy giving me a hand by cranking her over while I watched the rocker assembly. All went well there, nothing broken. Then as I was refitting everything the young lad said 'hey Dad, your cars leaking..' Sure enough, top radiator hose had split where the hose clamp is. Replaced with my spare and refilled it, now this would explain yesterdays sudden temp rise but still doesn't explain the rapid loss of oil pressure on Thursday as all the fluid levels were fine aside from the oil was about 1/3 off the 'Full' mark. And she wasn't overheating on thurs either.

It gets better.. After sorting out the coolant loss issue I fired her up and let her idle to operating temp. Now each time I have tried this over the last 2 days she's lost oil pressure and died pretty much as soon as she reached temp. Today, no such problem .

I thought this is a good sign, so I piled the kids in and took her for a decent 20-30 min run. Result - toward the end of the trip the temp was beginning to rise again (but it is a fairly warm day here in Sadelaide) and the oil pressure remained at normal readings, was getting a little low at idle as the temp went up, but that's to be expected. Got home and left her idling for a few more minutes, nice and smooth with no issues, rattling or ticking . At the moment I'm running 15w 40 oil but I'll be running thicker 20w 50 from now on I think.

Now, while I am absolutely stoked that all now seems well with the car, I am still racking my brain with just what the hell happened on Thursday?? Because dead set, it felt like she'd seized up totally..
It's confusing the hell out of me and it does make me a little hesitant to continue using the car on a regular basis. I have a pushy and access to public transport, but it would be nice to be fairly confident about the reliability of my engine.

Yeah that is strange man, do the thermofans kick it when its get warm?, could of been another reason why it gets so high, also the oil pressure switch could be on its way out too.

Also man, who is this guy who can do the AU Sump mod and how much just for that?, need to get mine done in a few weeks time etc.

Been a while since I've added to this.
Not much has happened with the her really apart from adding a Fairlane cluster, also I finally found a leather handbrake cover to finish off the set and added set of LED driving lights.

Apologies for the poor quality phone pictures.

Cluster, still need to find a set of door sensors to add the 'Door Ajar' functionality to the LCD display. But other than that I'm happy with the result.
{DESCRIPTION}

Typical 'Car at the beach' shot.
{DESCRIPTION}

I'll also {DESCRIPTION} the thread on where to add the resistor to overcome the LCD issue when adding a Fairlane cluster to a GLi/Futura/XR EF/L so others can reference if they're planning the same conversion.

{DESCRIPTION}