Hello Everyone,

First of all, the noob question: Everyone is talking about ICC. But what does that mean? When I see ICC I think of head unit, but what do the letters actually stand for?

Now, to the fun stuff. I got a sub with integrated amp and I've already successfully and neatly made the power wiring and accessory remote wiring. But I'm having trouble finding the correct wires to splice into for my line converter (the stock head unit doesn't have RCA out >:| ).

I have an FG XR6 2011. I took the panels off under the dash, looking for wire colors for front speakers that I obtained from here, but they didn't seem to work.

Here is where I'm looking:






My question is: Can it be done from the wires in the pictures? Or can it be done straight from the head unit wiring if I take that out?

I heard from a mechanic that the rear speakers on the 2011 FG are behind a bandpass so it's best to splice into the front speakers for running a sub.


Thanks in advance.

Hi mate, could you let me know where and how you tapped in to get constant 12V and remote signal on your car, to connect the amp, you need a line converter and tap in to just one speaker wire either front left or left rear (factory amp is mono) and then connect the input to the amp from the line converter, I am not quite sure which wire is which to the amp except the sub out (Blue/Light Blue)
let me know if you've already done this I am in the process of doing the same, my ride is a FG XR6 2010 MKi. not being a smart a** icc stands for ( interior command center ) if you haven't got the answer yet..

are the following correct, what is sheild -ve input ?

Y +ve fused power in
Y +ve fused power in
R ICC Acc. (on/off?)
G ICC Diag. (amp coded to vehicle?)
Y ICC +ve input
(shield?) ICC -ve input
LB +ve speaker out
SB-W -ve speaker out
B earth
B earth




cheers
Sumi

Hey buddy, yeah sure I can show you. Gonna go and take a couple of pictures for you, check back on this post soon.

Thanks for clearing up the ICC acronym, I realized what it stood for after I got in the car and read the full name on the dash, lol.

Also, can you tell me where you got that plug from? Is it under the dash or at the top?

Thanks


Mr_Cloud

Bought the amp and the sub including the parcel shelf and all other trims to go with it, bloke who pulled them out of the wrecked car cut the wiring loom off half way down the floor, plug shown goes in the amp. bought a rear bumper bar with reverse sensors and the module kit with it from the same mob, all these parts are off a FG F6, I have already fitted the bumper bar, park aid kit and working perfect. I know it is cheaper to go and buy after market kits but I like to keep it original as possible.

cheers mate

I was hoping you could show me a picture of where the car amp actually is lol.

And what you did is actually really clever, does the park aid kit integrate easily when it comes to electronics? As in does the ICC recognize it once it's all plugged in correctly? (I ask because I might do the same. And I was thinking of getting my hands on a stock turbo from a written off FG and stickin' it into mine, I wonder if it's possible first of all physically [I don't see why not] and secondly in terms of computer aided injection in a more pressurized cylinder..)

Regarding what I did in terms of sound, I did it in the most non-invasive way I could think of. This is where I tapped in for the remote (accy) signal:





As you can see, the horizontal blue wire is the remote wire that goes to my sub amp. I don't have the car's manual, but I got the list of fuses from here. I tapped into the cigarette lighter fuse for accessory. If you also want constant 12V supply, I would suggest fuse 20, which is for the ICC.

Now regarding audio wires, I only listen to my phone music (AUX) and pretty much never listen to radio or CDs. So after a few days of lookin' at different wires next to the ICC, behind the kick panels etc and bein' all like lolwtf what am I doing, I eureka'd and just used the simple AUX input next to the gear stick. This is great, because phone output is already line level, which means you don't need the converter

I lifted the plastic cover from around the gear stick and unplugged the cig lighter and took the AUX jack out completely. Now, the 3.5mm female input we plug our mp3 players in is hooked up to the wire by a loom. I disconnected the loom and there are 4 pins in a line which fit into their respective female counterparts. The outer pins are audio left and right, while the 2 inner pins are both ground. So I just got two short female RCA cables, stripped them and carefully stuck them inside the loom to touch the pins when they make the connection. They then connect to the male RCA cable which supplies audio input to the sub in the trunk.

So now, all I have to do when I decide to change my car is to take those RCA cables out from the loom, disconnect the remote wire, take out the sub and BAM! Stock FG XR6 2011 with absolutely no modifications done to it and no bare wires.

Of course, this means that the bass boost using the sub is completely independent of the ICC's volume and equalizer controls, but I actually like it like that, because I get the full range of bass at my fingertips using the bass control which I mounted on my seat.

[img][img][/img][/img]

Gday Mr Cloud, mate I've fitted my amp and done the wiring with a line converter, problem is the amp is not turning on, have you encounter this issue with the factory amp, I was just wondering whether the factory amps are coded to the car, help me out here please. here is some photos where the amp is located in the left side of the trunk and the line converter at left front. do you here a click when the amp turns on ?
cheers


Sumi

Hey mate I've sorted it out and the sub is pumping away.

 

 

Attachments:

IMG-20130924-00353.jpg [ 19.63 KiB | Viewed 1720 times ]

IMG-20130924-00351.jpg [ 17.68 KiB | Viewed 1000 times ]

IMG-20130924-00352.jpg [ 23.11 KiB | Viewed 1243 times ]