Hi all,

Today I set up Torque (a very nice android app) with a boost guage and put my foot half in on a straight road.

The boost jumped straight to 9.8 PSI and I was nowhere near full throttle.
That leads me to believe that I have the dreaded overboost problem that BA's are apparently prone too. I dread to think what the boost would have gotten to had I sunk my foot right in.

I have a VCM which I've successfully used for parameter resets and stuff, and I can get an FMP subscription easily enough, is that all I need to load the newer firmware onto my BA's PCM module?

This explains one of my earlier tickets where I mentioned that upon putting my foot in, the engine would start breaking down. I thought it seemed like a protection feature and this would seem to confirm it.

any thoughts folks?


regards

Frank

what kind of condition is the wastegate actuator in? i done a quick google search and found some information on this topic.

If that is the electronically switched vacuum line down near the bottom of the battery, I cleaned that the week I got the car.

I have also bought a brand new set of coils and an intake manifold gasket. (It has a tiny leak).

Can't think of anything left except the PCM update not having been applied.

Duplicate

Bry means the gold solenoid with the rod thats attached to the rear housing of the turbo.
you will have to remove the turbo get to it I believe

Yep thats the one I ment. If its hard to get to I would just buy a new one and replace while its off

OK, well this weekend I pulled the BBM apart (though it isn't really a BBM as there are no butterflies) and then pulled the whole manifold off and put a new intake gasket drowned in Hylomar back in. Then drowned the BBM manifold in Hylomar too and put it all back together.. the Intake is definitely not leaking anymore (checked the hoses while I was at it). Also cleaned the whole lot inside while I had it apart and the idle has improved as a result. (but still not perfect.) I must say that that was a horrible job and way way harder than it ever was on E series engines. I have mangled my hands trying to get them places they didn't fit and the job took 3 times longer than I expected.

Also put a brand new set of Coil packs in.

None of that stuff made any difference to the overboost issue (if that is what it is.) So next I guess I will be pulling the turbo off and cleaning or replacing everything too.

I did discover that my PCM reports its firmware as being from 2004 so it probably doesn't have the PCM update for the issue.

The cutting out always seems to happen when the boost hits 10PSI.

I used the torque app on Android and setup a big boost guage on my phone screen hooked up via bluetooth to my ODB2 reader... it logs it all and the cut out shuddering happened only when the boost gets around 9.7psi.. considering the lag of the elm interface and bluetooth. it's probably safe the assume that the boost is actually at 10psi when it's happening.

Last bit of info. even with an FMP subscription, I was unable to get the FMP software to work with a proper VCM adaptor.. Apparently it is a proper SAE J2534 but I couldn't find any drivers other than what comes with the IDS software to make it work.. and an IDS subscription is considerably more expensive. I'm wondering if a evaluation install of the lastest version will let me download falcon firmware. (also my FMP subscription didn't allow me to download "as built" stuff for the falcons either.)

It seems like the wastegate isnt opening and dumping the excess boost
if I was you id just replace the wastegate actuator

Yeah that does seem to be the common consensus.

Is there any way to verify that this is the problem? I mean they cost around 200 bucks on Ebay.. so presumably at Repco or Amcap they would be much more... I couldn't find any PCM errors about the turbo or wastegate so presumably there is no sensor to detect wastegate action?

After more googling last night I read that the overboost cut out can be caused by a collapsing flexible intake pipe. when I checked mine last night it was quite soft and the spring that is in them was missing from this one. I have a few spares so I found the stiffest one and then put three of the springs in it so it isn't ever collapsing again if it ever did.

Also have a BF TPS to go on to see if it improves the idle quality...

I am looking at this wastegate actuator.
[url]
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271293166628 ... 1423.l2649[/url]

Its a "Kinugawa Adjustable Billet Turbo Actuator Ford" don't know the brand but it looks solid enough and has interchangable springs and you can replace the diaphram for 14 bucks in future.

Not sure I understand how it works, but if I want factory boost I guess I'd get the light blue 7psi spring?
This one: [url]http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/290993307054?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
[/url]
But since the car seems to run well up to ten, I should I try to find something like a 9psi spring?

regards

Frank

Update, Those of you that suggested the wastegate actuator were correct.

It moves freely enough, but I put a hose on it and sucked.. no air restriction.. the diaphram is gone.

I have a replacement Kinugawa one here with is supposed to have a 7psi spring in it. (but since it's nearly impossible to pull the arm out I'm guessing he forgot to take out the 12psi spring out. )

It looks impossible to change the arm without pulling the turbo out.. so I Guess next weekend that is what I'll be doing.

Anyone got any tips for the job?

cheers

Frank