36's atleast...I have been all through this with turbo 5.0...
Your far cheaper going through Std throttle body...73 mm maf thats callibrated to injector size..Then tweeker etc to limit spark advance...Initially I'd run it at 4*to tdc intial to be safe..Even with std head and inlet is enough power..Detonation is always an issue though...
FMU's are not reliable enough and put too much on fuel pumps...
How can a pump supply the volume @ 8 Lb boost and with 12 to 1 rising rate[fmu] thats 96 Lb plus the 40 or so Lb line pressure Thats over 130 Lb all up...WAY too high.Then the fuel pump is supposed supply more fuel than it did at 40 Lb? ?????...I doubt injectors would work properly at that pressure anyway...
Comparing shc 6's to Windsor V8's is totally different...The six has far less bore and is more detonation tolerant...Even though there capacity per cylinder is more....

If he is getting aftermarket management then why does he need a rising rate regulator. Don't you want the pressure across the injectors to be the same to get the spray patterns right? Just buy the appropriate size injectors in the first place.

Also if you have aftermarket ECU then you don't need (or can't run) a MAF. ie. If you have a WOLF 3D then just use the inbuilt MAP sensor.

Looking at the software the WOLF s**t all over the stinger. ie. The stinger can't be tuned in real time = $$$ dyno time and has only 2 load sites when on boost!! -Shocking resolution. Get a WOLF 3D as a cheap unit but since you don't want to get into tuning it yourself find the workshop that wil be tuning your car and go with what their comfortable with. As per the ecu forum expect to pay between $1200 and $2000. I would recommend either the wolf 3D or the haltech E6. - Haltech has far better install instructions if you are doing it yourself.

By the way did you buy that kit on Ebay?? I saw one just like it for sale. If only it was 2 months later I would have bought it right away! -And I have a 6 so no mucking about for me!

...... done it.. it works.... & theres no issue......... run the S ll AU 5.0 stuff & the R/R with a piggy back tune it then go shread rubber....

std 5.0ltr motor & a max of 8 psi from the blower. no problems

Mate........... if it dos'nt work I'll give you a set of injectors FREE!
(AFTER POSTING AFs & INJECTOR DURATION)


plus a set of steak nives....... lol

Joe ........C/M

Yeah mine's setup with powerdyne, r/r and piggyback chip. Works well, goes hard. Might not be "ideal" but no problems yet (touchwood).

Does ask a fair bit of the fuel pump, but in all honesty you only see max boost for seconds at a time... if you're sitting on max boost for hours on end the law will catch up with you before component failure does. We're talking street cars, yeah? i.e. not flogging it around a track all day....

Ok guys, well if i can run bigger injectors and not put any undue stress on the motor, then that seems to sound like the best way. I'm basically after 200+ but i'm not chasing massive figures, if i got 202rwkw i'd still be happy with that. I would like to still have some decent fuel economy, as i still do a few longer trips, i would like to at least have decent cruising economy, if possible.

Yeah Spork, i got the kit off Ebay, i ended up getting it for a great price, but i'd feel worse if i had bought it if someone with a 6 really wanted it now!
I went for a drive to Albury on Sunday to pick it up, gave me something to do than sit on my a** and watch TV or something.

Well i have seen the Wolf 3D Version 4, with the hand controller and a few extras over the base model for $1,400. Does that sound alright or not? Also are they a real pain in the a** to wire up, and how would i get my basic tune, does it come with preset values or something similar to work from?

I'm going to speak to a couple of guys tomorrow on my day off and see what ECU's they recommend and how much they want for them.
So i might get back to you guys about what they recommend, to clarify a few things.....

Spork, if i can't swap any of the brackets and pulleys over at CAPA, i might have some for sale, pretty cheap... unless you plan on buying a kit.

Thanks guys

Its just not safe to restrict power due to lean conditions...Sooner or latter you'll pick up some crap fuel and before you know it....Your walking!!!! There's $100 between 24's and 42's A good 255 intank pump is around $300.00 A re-build is worth $2500...
Tuned right you won't use anymore fuel...Hell I'v fitted a turbo to an MX6 with 880cc Rochester injectors [yes over the top] on 2.5 V6.. Idles fine!!!! EMS 8860....

Thanks mate,
I was thinking of going some 36lb's, so perhaps it may idle a little better?
What do you think of Walbro Fuel Pumps?
Nice, thanks for the info.
That was one of my main worries, that i could still get decent fuel economy cruising at 2,000rpm on the highway.

Cheers mate.

You'll get far better economy with injectors and eec doing the tuning / opperation than a rising rate!! Thats bassically making the engine management work mechanically rather than through ecu...You want atleast 20 % bigger injectors than you need.. Up to 80% duty cycle at max...

Walbro's work well. i'm using one and havnt had any issues with it.

I think there are some factors to consider that aren't being talked about.
For a low cost basic setup an FMU can be a good thing because it allows you to get the fuel required from injectors otherwise not big enough for the job. Another benefit of retaining small injectors is that their controllabilty at low pulse widths is better than with larger ones(eg; try getting a drink from a fire hydrant) so fuel control, therefore fuel economy is improved. Remember the vast majority of time is spent at light loads. The fuel volume required is still important so the pump should still be upgraded or enhanced with another inline.
ELXR; I do have some code partially cracked for the EL 5.0 EECV and I am currently testing a modified EL 1 XR8 (6DFD).

Cheers,
Pete.