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Damoo |
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Hello guys, my engine in my EL is pushing about 125-135 across all cylinders, except cylinder 1 which is a low 110 psi, so i guess its time for a rebuild.
I've got the top end all sorted out, CMS Stage 3a head with a 2a cam, and the car is currently undergoing T5 conversion to liven it up a bit. I want to rebuild the engine and I'm not sure if I should build it low comp for forced induction, or just run high comp N/A? Whats the highest comp I can go with N/A and still keep it running fine on 98? Its currently tuned for 98 making 138KW at the rears on a tired engine, has 235,000km on the clock. The idea of high comp appeals to me because its easier to keep it all legal and my current exhaust and cam choice would be ideal, I'd like to keep it to a max of 5500 RPM as these things dont like revving out right? Can you suggest me a parts list? What $$$ would I be looking at for a bottom end, the top end is all good. Thanks much. |
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phongus |
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Damoo wrote: Hello guys, my engine in my EL is pushing about 125-135 across all cylinders, except cylinder 1 which is a low 110 psi, so i guess its time for a rebuild. I've got the top end all sorted out, CMS Stage 3a head with a 2a cam, and the car is currently undergoing T5 conversion to liven it up a bit. I want to rebuild the engine and I'm not sure if I should build it low comp for forced induction, or just run high comp N/A? Whats the highest comp I can go with N/A and still keep it running fine on 98? Its currently tuned for 98 making 138KW at the rears on a tired engine, has 235,000km on the clock. The idea of high comp appeals to me because its easier to keep it all legal and my current exhaust and cam choice would be ideal, I'd like to keep it to a max of 5500 RPM as these things dont like revving out right? Can you suggest me a parts list? What $$$ would I be looking at for a bottom end, the top end is all good. Thanks much. If you don't plan on spending big money on force induction down the track, I'd say go for a high comp engine. It also depends how much power you want out of your engine...you can easily get 150rwkws with the right mods. Gezza is somewhere near 200rwkw N/A I believe (correct me here Gezza), cost wise I am not sure. If you are going to go complete rebuild, these are the things you will need. ACL Rebuild kit AU MLS Gasket if you want to use that over ACL AU head bolts Gasket kit (for all the other gaskets)...Permaseal, ACL, Monotorque...whichever Oil pump (if yours is rooted) Timing Chain kit (might as well) Welsh plugs - all of them Water pump - usually can't remove the water pump without destroying the seal Water pump pulley if it doesn't come with pump Harmonic balancer - not necessary but meh Then you have to get your block honed/bored if required, decked, acid washed. Head checked, straightened, valve seals replaced, valve reseated if required etc. Balancing of moving assembly is probably recommended, but maybe not necessary? I'd do it...I think I got quoted $300 or something on the crankshaft + flywheel (auto) So in total for parts and the block/head stuff done, you'd be looking at around $2000 depending where you go and what you buy. Doing the assembling yourself. If you want an engine specialist to do it all for you, looking at $3000+ easily. I started a thread a while back when I had grand ideas of rebuilding my EL engine, but that went out the window. This is the thread
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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SWC |
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If you are going to do a rebuild, start with an AU Short Motor, get the sump done and you will have a good solid bottom end with the stage 3 Head. Open her up about 20 thou and you will be laughing. 10:1 will see you fine on 98. 10.5:1 should be OK. Depends on the brand of 98.
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efxr6wagon |
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SWC wrote: If you are going to do a rebuild, start with an AU Short Motor, get the sump done and you will have a good solid bottom end with the stage 3 Head. Open her up about 20 thou and you will be laughing. 10:1 will see you fine on 98. 10.5:1 should be OK. Depends on the brand of 98. ....and on how big your cam is. A hotter cam with more overlap reduces your effective ("dynamic") compression at low revs, where you would normally get ping, so you can run a bit more mechanical compression.
_________________ 95 EF XR6 wagon, 17" FTRs, DBA rotors, KYB/Koni, AU bottom end, ported EF head, backcut valves, SS Inductions, Territory intake, 10.2 CR, Auckland 1258 cam, vernier gear, PH4480 headers, no cat, Tickford 2.5", 2800rpm stall, J3 chip |
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SWC |
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efxr6wagon wrote: SWC wrote: If you are going to do a rebuild, start with an AU Short Motor, get the sump done and you will have a good solid bottom end with the stage 3 Head. Open her up about 20 thou and you will be laughing. 10:1 will see you fine on 98. 10.5:1 should be OK. Depends on the brand of 98. ....and on how big your cam is. A hotter cam with more overlap reduces your effective ("dynamic") compression at low revs, where you would normally get ping, so you can run a bit more mechanical compression. It's a CMS Stage 2a Cam, so it's not that big. |
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Damoo |
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Hey guys would this be suitable?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/260758332743 ... 1423.l2649 What size over should I go, AFAIK the bottom end is factory still, so it should be able to be bored out. Also whats a new AU short worth? I'd have issues with engine number correct? Repco would only supply a long engine at around $3000. |
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phongus |
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Damoo wrote: Hey guys would this be suitable? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/260758332743 ... 1423.l2649 What size over should I go, AFAIK the bottom end is factory still, so it should be able to be bored out. Also whats a new AU short worth? I'd have issues with engine number correct? Repco would only supply a long engine at around $3000. Buy the ACL rebuild kit after you sort the block out. As you won't know what size piston/bearing you will need for the block. You can get the same person who cleaned up the block to order the ACL kit for you. Might not be cheaper than ebay, but you'll know you'll get the correct parts for the block.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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SWC |
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Damoo wrote: Hey guys would this be suitable? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/260758332743 ... 1423.l2649 What size over should I go, AFAIK the bottom end is factory still, so it should be able to be bored out. Also whats a new AU short worth? I'd have issues with engine number correct? Repco would only supply a long engine at around $3000. Buy a second hand AU motor and start from there. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-FALCON- ... 2c70922af1 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-FALCON- ... 35b950b390 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-AU-MOTO ... 1c351864e6 |
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GeZza200 |
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You still make good power with standard comp. I had mine rebuilt with the ACL kit a few years ago. I would be going high comp as others have said. AU's standard are 9.6:1 which are a bit higher than the EL's.
_________________ EL Futura: CVE head, Wolf V500, ICE Ignition and Coil, 36lb injectors, Walbro 255lb, Paci comps, 3" exhaust, T5, Harrop Truetrac with 3.9s. Now with 198.9rwkw, (~185rwkw and 13.80 @99.1mph) with more power to come |
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HP hungry |
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To give you and idea of high(ish) comp, My EL is running 10.4:1 comp with ACL race series kit, AU gasket, stg3 CMS cam, ported 94AB head stainless valves, and J3 chip.
Bottom end cost me $2400 inc labour Head prob spent $600 (self porting) Turns out a decent 165rwkw can't remember torque but it's definitely there, and runs 14's on the quarter. |
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