Trav199 managed 246 rwkw from a seriously-worked DOHC spinning to 6500rpm in front of a ZF 6-speed automatic, so it should be possible to get over 200 rwkw (about 330-350 hp at the flywheel) from a similarly worked SOHC....but it will not be cheap.

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yes, and im pretty sure he spent over $15'000 to get that 245rwkw

well thanks heaps guys, has pointed me in the right direction. lots of food for thought

Changed my mind, went to the speedway on the weekend and a number of guys have spent thousands on their cars and while they make quite a noise, they weren't quick. Pretty sure that's called overpowering the track. It would seem setup is 50% or more of your pace and getting out of the corners is essential THEREFORE how can i get the most Torque from an AU engine? It will still need to rev (probably get to just on 6,000 as it gets tipped into the corner) but i need to utilize that torque. Ideas?

also got onto a thread about individual throttle bodies. As far as i could gather they take away from down low and add to the top end? what other benefits are there to these and could they be used to increase the torque by any chance? IE back in the old go-karts days, a longer header gave more top end a shorter header gave more down low. does this principle (or something similar) apply to ITB?

torque at 6,000 rpm will equal a lot of power. Since power is torque times revs (to oversimplify the equation).

Longer intake runners generally give better low-mid torque, as for headers iirc it was longer primaries? if someone can correct that?

A friend of mine who used to speedway did this:

Get some copper pipe and make a coil that can fit a sturdy sealed tin can inside the coil. Freeze water in the can and attach fuel lines to either end of the coil, mounted inconspicuously. Fuel cooler. Helps keep your afr's in tune during a race.

Set up a second windscreen washer bottle in the engine bay with nozzles aimed at the radiator with a switch on your dash to spray water on the front of the radiator to keep engine temps down.

Using copper for a fuel line is not a good thing.....it robs the RON of the fuel.
Alloy tubing would be better.

The basic rule for both intake manifold runners and exhaust header primaries is: the longer and smaller diameter the tube, the lower the revs where your torque peaks; the shorter and bigger the tube, the higher the rpm where the torque peaks. Thus, the Broad-Band Manifold on the EF onward: long runners used up to 3800rpm, switching to short runners above that. That's part of the secret to its broad, flat torque curve. The same rules apply to intake and exhaust ports in the head if you are planning head work. The subject is way more complicated than that (with 3rd and 4th harmonics, etc - frankly beyond me), but the rule does work.

If you are going to be at 3000 rpm or less coming out of the corner, you are going to need a really flat torque curve. You would not want either a "torque monster" that pulls stumps up to 4000rpm but has nothing above that, or a peaky revver that is still pulling hard at 6000rpm, but is dead below 3500rpm. There is no magic formula to achieve that balance, but there is heaps on Fordmods and elsewhere to get clued up. All the old hot rodding methods still work, so it doesn't have to be Falcon six specific. Read up on:
- increasing compression ratio
- cam (duration, overlap, LSA, degreeing)
- increasing ignition advance
- tuning air-fuel ratio (AFR)
- cold air induction
You will need to do some experimenting to achieve exactly what you want - if it's even achievable.

Just FYI, these guys make carburetor intake manifolds that they claim perform well in speedway applications:
https://www.aussiespeed.com/index.php?o ... &Itemid=31

I have seen these around and did consider it. a lot is still up in the air due to unknown costs of building the actual car. not much point having the powerplant if i dont have the car. from what ive seen a majority of cars dont drop below 4000rpm



a mate is currently doing this now. not sure if he is using copper coil though. and it just sits in an esky. no rules in the class against cooling fuel. did consider getting my hands on dry ice but that may be too cold haha

They normally do boats but Nankervis's in town do some pretty serious custom engine stuff (502 blown southern 80 motors) Might be worth talking to. AED (advanced engine dynamics) in golden square/golden triangle would build a speedway engine too.

My suggestion would be take a relatively standard setup with your current, bolt on everything, then put a roots or screw blower setup on the intake. All the low down power you'd want, there are kits out there.

You could buy a dohc barra motor for f**k all these days. I bought one for $50. Much better engine to start with. Though less head aches setting up a sohc motor

The engine must remain N/A for the speedway class. its a shame i know.
yes the barra motors do seem to be quite cheap but as you said im trying to keep it simple. to be quite honest we already have a 250 crossflow thats mildly worked and im tempted to just throw that in. would be so much easier to work on