Try filing a bit more off, I had to file one back about half a mm further than what it looked like it needed, after it was free spinning and wiggling.. then it just fell out...

I'm curious on the length of the things, I got a clutch cable from Bursons for an EL 6 cylinder, but my mate who went to put it on said it was about 2 inches too long, the T5 conversion I bought came off an XH and the old clutch cable supplied with the kit was the right size?

Is there something we're doing wrong?

whats the part number of the one you got?

I can't remember, but the guy behind the counter said it suited EL 5sp, is there multiple types for the same car?

I think from memory it was a flexible drivelines one or something:

http://www.fdrive.com.au/products/02/clutch.php

you need cc222. fits ef el xh 6 cylinder. the v8 one is different. u may have gotten that one

If its longer it shouldn't really matter? Just let the loop curve down a bit pbigger?

But from memory Ranga is right, C222 is one for ford..
possibly C223 also... it's ringing a bell there were 2 different ones, EA-ED and EF-EL... Can't recall perfectly ATM though.

Flex drive is the brand and they do heaps of different cables. They are pretty good, I've got one by them.

What condition is the throwout bearing, and pivot point inside the bellhousing?
It looks like the clutch fork is a little off centre in those pictures.

Yeah I'll continue filing. It really must be a precision fit from factory. And as mentioned earlier, being pulled for 19 years can't help either. Off to the garage!

Filing helped a lot and out she came! Bluddy hell what an effort!

Here's the new Dellow insulator fork installed.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/b8l08wtiazgd5i4/DSC_1010.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ebspw2c01we8rl/DSC_1011.jpg

So far clutch pedal feels better, more solid and is all working well. The clutch cable nib practically clicks into the new Dellow insulator fork.

For future reference of removing an EF clutch fork insulator:

1. Bend all 4 wing tabs using a screwdriver and hammer (or any other tools to tap them flat).
Try doing this while holding the plate back to avoid it bouncing while hammering.

2. To turn the insulator spray WD40 around, then a wrench or shifter to twist the insulator and access the remaining wings.

3. If you still can't remove the insulator, but it twists and wiggles, start using a metal file and filing all the wing tab areas down. When successful it will release out towards the rear of the car (away from fork side).

4. With new fork simply screw into plate, add grease to cable end nib and surrounding friction areas and insert into clutch fork.

Let's see how she goes! Thanks for all the tips Fordy's!