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| serbnz |
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Hey guys i wanted to get some advice on a Stall Converter 2800rpm for my El xr6.
is it worth the money? whats the gains like? where in victoria would be the best place? and for people that own a xr6 with a stall converter, would yo buy it again? my current modes are: - gt snorkle - JMM extractors - 100 cpi cat - 2.5 inch all the way through - and a very clean K&N filter - quick shift kit Auto i don't want to go dwon the path of a cam/ head yet, trying to keep it fuel effiencent but want more of the line. thanks in advance |
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| SWC |
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With the mods you have, it's really not worth it. There will be no power gains with the increased stally. Get some head and cam work done then look at it.
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| serbnz |
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{USERNAME} wrote: With the mods you have, it's really not worth it. There will be no power gains with the increased stally. Get some head and cam work done then look at it. ohhh, i realize there will be no power gains as in KW, though there should be time gains 0.2-0.3 of a second, wouldn't you say??? and the reason i am going down this path is to keep it fuel efficient and also alot more cheaper than a cam, head work with a tune where your looking at thousands!! im looking for somthing fun, just to give it a little kick off the line, which is only 800-$900 |
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| SWC |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: With the mods you have, it's really not worth it. There will be no power gains with the increased stally. Get some head and cam work done then look at it. ohhh, i realize there will be no power gains as in KW, though there should be time gains 0.2-0.3 of a second, wouldn't you say??? and the reason i am going down this path is to keep it fuel efficient and also alot more cheaper than a cam, head work with a tune where your looking at thousands!! im looking for somthing fun, just to give it a little kick off the line, which is only 800-$900 Don't take offence mate, but with the mods you have, you probably have 125 - 130 RwKw at the most and that will depend upon how many Km you have on the car and the condition of your gearbox. Factory XR cam starts coming on at around 2100 rpm, factory stall is around a 2200 rpm stally. To get any real benifit from a higher stall you will need to do headwork and cam. My advice for what it is worth is save the $800-$900 for the stally and do a manual coversion. |
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| Falcon96XR6 |
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Manual conversion is 600odd, and you can stall it at whatever rpm you want
 
_________________ EL XR6, T5 Speed - Full Factory Fitted Tickford Body Kit, AU Engine, Billet Camtech 845 Cam, J3 Chip, MLS Gasket, Intake, Extractors, High flow cat, 2 1/2in exhaust, K&N Air Filter, 3.45 LSD, - My Pride and Joy |
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| serbnz |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: With the mods you have, it's really not worth it. There will be no power gains with the increased stally. Get some head and cam work done then look at it. ohhh, i realize there will be no power gains as in KW, though there should be time gains 0.2-0.3 of a second, wouldn't you say??? and the reason i am going down this path is to keep it fuel efficient and also alot more cheaper than a cam, head work with a tune where your looking at thousands!! im looking for somthing fun, just to give it a little kick off the line, which is only 800-$900 thanks mate, you had great advice and makes a lot more sense now. didn't know the cam had to match up with the stall. |
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| SWC |
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It doesn't have too, but thing work better when they are optimsed and working together.
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| Darcy4524 |
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Hi I was wondering where in the rev range the stall converter works best? How do I find out?
_________________ NA2 fairlane - 3.9 with au headgasket & injectors, ef fans, 2.5" zorst, lowered on selby springs , kenwood head unit and 6 speakers, fusion sub, el ecu & ti chip |
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| edfairmont4.0 |
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Hey man I've been down your road before I wouldn't put the stall in before diff gears go get some 3.9s or 4.10s that plus a 2800 stall it will be very respectable even with no cam I could get 0-100 in just under 7 seconds with those mods. Which is healthy.
_________________ ED Fairmont, Ghia mock DOHC-T 11.6 @ 118 Trying to get back to the 1/4! |
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| TROYMAN |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Hi I was wondering where in the rev range the stall converter works best? How do I find out? you will find if your engine is std the factory stall it pretty much right, change your cam where your torque cure is higher in the rev range then a higher stall would be better matched.. I would do diff gears over a high stall... |
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| Darcy4524 |
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Cool ive heard of people putting their foot on the brake, flooringit then releasing the brake for a quick take off. Does that actually work?
Sorry serbnz for asking question just dont see the need for another thread.
_________________ NA2 fairlane - 3.9 with au headgasket & injectors, ef fans, 2.5" zorst, lowered on selby springs , kenwood head unit and 6 speakers, fusion sub, el ecu & ti chip |
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| Falcon96XR6 |
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Thats the idea of "stalling" it. If your torque convertor is standard, stall it up to 2200rpm and release brake.
_________________ EL XR6, T5 Speed - Full Factory Fitted Tickford Body Kit, AU Engine, Billet Camtech 845 Cam, J3 Chip, MLS Gasket, Intake, Extractors, High flow cat, 2 1/2in exhaust, K&N Air Filter, 3.45 LSD, - My Pride and Joy |
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| efxr6wagon |
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+1 Keep the mods matched. There is little benefit from a high-stall without a cam and/or head porting that raises your peak torque RPM. A cam regrind shouldn't cost your more than about $200.
My EF XR6 has a stall around 2800rpm with a reground cam and other basic mods (see signature). Even with the cam, this is as high as I would go in a daily driver. But it is very nice for launches at the dragstrip (2.1 sec 60-foot). If I was doing more drag work, I would go for a higher diff ratio (currently factory 3.45), as 1st is still way too long, and it crosses the line at only 4700rpm in 3rd. A 3.9 diff would make that about 5400-5500rpm with my current mods. If you do go with a cam and high stall, I would strongly recommend getting a TI Performance J3 chip with a custom desktop tune. The high stall by itself can make response noticeably weaker and looser below stall rpm. You can get this back (and more) with the right spark tuning. I can provide a self-tuned spark table that is working extremely well with my combination - very similar to yours, but with a one step hotter regrind.
_________________ 95 EF XR6 wagon, 17" FTRs, DBA rotors, KYB/Koni, AU bottom end, ported EF head, backcut valves, SS Inductions, Territory intake, 10.2 CR, Auckland 1258 cam, vernier gear, PH4480 headers, no cat, Tickford 2.5", 2800rpm stall, J3 chip |
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| roughredXR6 |
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Been there, and agree with what others have said.
With mild mods, the stock converter works fine. High stalls are really only necessary if your cam is spec'd for mid to top end, as they provide the extra slip required to get the rpm up to where the cam's power band starts. Then they are great, especially when combined with a manual torque converter lockup switch. Eventually you will get bored with the auto though, and throw in a 5-speed and chip the ecu. This will happen even sooner if you get the chance to drive a manual Falcon. The difference between auto and manual is like 'not bad' versus 'faaaarkyeah!'
_________________ Ported ED XR6 head shaved too much, AU gasket, custom Crow Cam, Pacemaker 4480's, 5-speed conversion, billet aluminium flywheel, GT clutch, T.I. Performance J3 chip, custom water/methanol injection, modified BA throttle body. Paint&Panel by Barbed Wire Fence. |
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