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| Mad2 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Factory wiring removed from a body loom. Also have a complete body loom and compaired wires to make sure all was there. I had the O/Y wire connected to one wire on column loom, the cruise light would stay on and if I pressed and held the on switch it would turn off. Moved wire to yellow wire on column and now the cruise light lights up while the engine is cranking only then turns off when car is started. I know that the O/Y wire is for power for the cruise unit and that the on/off switch cuts power to that wire. what wire was it then?? the O/Y wire on on/off is momentary on and turn off |
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| TimmyA |
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I'll reply in here instead of to your PM so everyone knows where we are at...
The O/Y has not a thing to do with power... It is the sense wire to determine what button you have pressed... If you press on it piggy backs 12v from the horn and sends it down O/Y... If you press of it grounds O/Y... If you press set or resume it applys a resistance to ground and depending on the resistance value will determine which button was pressed... All buttons return so in the normal state (no button press) then O/Y needs to be high (inifinite) resistance to function properly irrespective of the status of the cruise... How your wheel should have 3 brass rings in the back of it? A non cruise wheel will have 2... And your combo switch should have had 3 brass pins sticking out of it to contact these rings? And if you look in the back of the combo switch when you installed it you'll see three wires disappear into the backs of where these pins are... One was red, one was white and maybe one was yellow? So yes the wire colours do change into the column wiring... You need a multimeter... One wire should have a circuit to ground... And one should have 12V present... These would already be working as they were the two existing horn wires... Then the third will be sense wire which hooks to O/Y... I can't check mine any more as it is now all AU wiring including cruise... It's fairly straight forward but you need to research your combo switch make sure it has the 3 brass pins and they aren't worn out (doubt you can buy them new anymore hence I went to a clock spring AU system) then find the three coloured wires that are hooked to the pins then find the ground wire and the 12V wire and the last remaining one is the one you want... If it still doesn work you have mad a mistake hooking something else up... The ED cruise system is the hardest to retrofit, the body loom, vac pump, vac diaphragm, vac lines, vac/electric cancel switches all need to be correctly fitted and hooked together as well as all the other wiring to function properly... Would have been easier to retrofit an EF/EL style cruise system... Cheers, Tim
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| Mad2 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: I'll reply in here instead of to your PM so everyone knows where we are at... The O/Y has not a thing to do with power... It is the sense wire to determine what button you have pressed... If you press on it piggy backs 12v from the horn and sends it down O/Y... If you press of it grounds O/Y... If you press set or resume it applys a resistance to ground and depending on the resistance value will determine which button was pressed... All buttons return so in the normal state (no button press) then O/Y needs to be high (inifinite) resistance to function properly irrespective of the status of the cruise... How your wheel should have 3 brass rings in the back of it? A non cruise wheel will have 2... And your combo switch should have had 3 brass pins sticking out of it to contact these rings? And if you look in the back of the combo switch when you installed it you'll see three wires disappear into the backs of where these pins are... One was red, one was white and maybe one was yellow? So yes the wire colours do change into the column wiring... You need a multimeter... One wire should have a circuit to ground... And one should have 12V present... These would already be working as they were the two existing horn wires... Then the third will be sense wire which hooks to O/Y... I can't check mine any more as it is now all AU wiring including cruise... It's fairly straight forward but you need to research your combo switch make sure it has the 3 brass pins and they aren't worn out (doubt you can buy them new anymore hence I went to a clock spring AU system) then find the three coloured wires that are hooked to the pins then find the ground wire and the 12V wire and the last remaining one is the one you want... If it still doesn work you have mad a mistake hooking something else up... The ED cruise system is the hardest to retrofit, the body loom, vac pump, vac diaphragm, vac lines, vac/electric cancel switches all need to be correctly fitted and hooked together as well as all the other wiring to function properly... Would have been easier to retrofit an EF/EL style cruise system... Cheers, Tim thanks Tim that was a part i didn't know |
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| TimmyA |
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It is possible that non cruise wheels and combos have 3 pins too... Haven't seen one myself but two are required for a horn so I figure that non cruise wheels and/or combos probably only have 2 rings or 2 pins... If anyone has a non cruise wheel lying around feel free to stick up a photo of it...
Cheers, Tim
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| TimmyA |
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Ebay makes it look like that all combo switches have 3 brass pins...
Attachment: $_57.JPG [ 250.55 KiB | Viewed 251 times ] Cheers, Tim
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| TimmyA |
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Nope I lied...
Non cruise wheels have 3 rings too... And the 4 spade contacts inside them Attachment: $_57 (1).JPG [ 200.07 KiB | Viewed 244 times ] Attachment: $_57 (2).JPG [ 148.19 KiB | Viewed 261 times ] The OP still needs to make sure his is correct and that he has 3 brass pins and that they are not worn out... Make sure they have electrical grease and that all buttons are plugged into the spade connections in the wheel correctly... From memory the one on the left was brown which is ground... The double spade is where the 2 blue wires go (one from each set of buttons) and the right one was yellow which is power from after the horn relay... Cheers, TIm
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