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| GTFORDMAN |
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Age: 44 Posts: 1475 Joined: 5th Nov 2004 Ride: 98 EL Falcon - Last of the EL's Location: Muswellbrook |
if anyone is following my F100 build then you'd know im up to painting it, i have the previous paint stripped off (more of less) and ive been getting advice from all over the place and each bit of advice contradicts the other piece of advice & so on and so on! it's become very confusing
my original plan was; strip paint, spray on primer filler, sand & clean, spray on top coat & clear coat and now the "experts" arrive and tell me NO NO NO! the correct way is Strip, etch primer, primer, primer surface, base coat, top coat, clear coat & between every coat sand! then another "expert" comes in and says "you don't need to strip anything simply light sand and clean (the former top coat) then primer and top coat" and it seems there is a hundred different ways on the internet & now i'm completly lost so any advice from people who have done this before would help.
_________________ why are women like clouds? eventually they f**k off and its a really nice day.
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| kimboxr6 |
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What paint are you going to use?
Acrylic or 2pack same goes for the primer.
_________________ ef2 fairmont ghia tickford 6 |
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| GTFORDMAN |
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Age: 44 Posts: 1475 Joined: 5th Nov 2004 Ride: 98 EL Falcon - Last of the EL's Location: Muswellbrook |
kimboxr6 wrote: What paint are you going to use? Acrylic or 2pack same goes for the primer. Acrylic for both
_________________ why are women like clouds? eventually they f**k off and its a really nice day.
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| kimboxr6 |
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Single pack epoxy etch primer is great for any bare metal areas or any where else for that matter.
You can put anything over the epoxy etch any imperfections use your primer filler put your base down then clear. Acrylic is very forgiving if you make a mistake on the base stop let it dry fix the problem put some more coats on. Dont skimp on your clear put plenty on because later on you will be flatting it off with 1200 grit wet and dry with soapy water. Then buff and polish. Hope it was a help.
_________________ ef2 fairmont ghia tickford 6 |
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| GTFORDMAN |
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Age: 44 Posts: 1475 Joined: 5th Nov 2004 Ride: 98 EL Falcon - Last of the EL's Location: Muswellbrook |
kimboxr6 wrote: Single pack epoxy etch primer is great for any bare metal areas or any where else for that matter. You can put anything over the epoxy etch any imperfections use your primer filler put your base down then clear. Acrylic is very forgiving if you make a mistake on the base stop let it dry fix the problem put some more coats on. Dont skimp on your clear put plenty on because later on you will be flatting it off with 1200 grit wet and dry with soapy water. Then buff and polish. Hope it was a help. cheers mate that was some good help, etch primer, primer, top coat, clear 
_________________ why are women like clouds? eventually they f**k off and its a really nice day.
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| snap0964 |
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+1 what Kimbo said.
Depends on the condition of the original paint - sand it back with 80 or 120 grit, and see how it holds up, if it's powdery/flakey, then it won't be a good base for successive coats over it. Because your base will have sanded original paint/bare metal, use an etch primer - a std primer won't 'treat' the bare metal. Bare metal starts corroding in normal open air around 2-3 hrs, so get at least some primer on it ASAP. Primer does let moisture through too, so get a colour coat on fairly promptly too. Use a gravity fed gun - most have 1.4/1.7 mm nozzle - acrylic needs 2.0mm. I drilled out a 1.4mm nozzle, and it works. You can use primer surfacer or spray putty, but you'll need a 3.5mm nozzle - you should be able to get away using a 2mm nozzle if you thinned the spray putty, but check what you need to thin it with. Generally, you can spray acrylic over existing acrylic(1K) or over existing 2 pak(2K). Don't spray 2K over 1K. There's s**t more - visit http://www.vgautopaints.com.au , and go through their videos and DIY guides, you'll learn how to do it properly, from whoa to go. They cover everything. Get a gash panel to work on, so you get practice on prep, gun technique, and so on. Good luck with it, and have fun.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| snap0964 |
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Generally you only need clear coat over metallic paint - usually around 2-3 coats of colour, then 3-4 coats of clear, leave 10-15mins between coats. Do this as a session, over a couple hours. DON'T sand between coats.
Use general purpose thinners for mixing primer, premium thinners for colour/clear, gives a shinier finish. A 1:1 ratio will give you a good mix. Leave this for a few days, then wet sand with 1200 grit to remove the orange peel finish. For a car, some lambswool/foam pads and a machine will serve you best for buffing - leave this a few days/week or so after painting.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| kimboxr6 |
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If you are painting a metallic and for some reason you are painting parts off the car make sure
you hang and spray the parts the way they sit on the vehicle if you dont the metallic particles will lay different even though its the same paint it WILL look different.
_________________ ef2 fairmont ghia tickford 6 |
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| GTFORDMAN |
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Age: 44 Posts: 1475 Joined: 5th Nov 2004 Ride: 98 EL Falcon - Last of the EL's Location: Muswellbrook |
cheers guys! i'm doing the prep work myself, but getting someone who paints for a living to come and do the top coat. i got a siphon feed gun for the primer filler (was told was fine to use for primer) but the "pro" has all the right tools.
will post up some pics soon!
_________________ why are women like clouds? eventually they f**k off and its a really nice day.
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| bennettpr |
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snap0964 wrote: visit http://www.vgautopaints.com.au , and go through their videos and DIY guides, you'll learn how to do it properly, from whoa to go. Cheers for the link and advice - very helpful.
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