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| cruiza |
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Hi guys
I have had a look at why there is so much play in my steering and the column seems fine, the play seems to be in the steering rack itself where the column meshes with the rack itself, any ideas on who to get parts off or who reconditions steering racks I am in Rockhampton CQ Queeensland thanks |
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| Pakrat |
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Have you checked all tie rod and rack ends?
Personally I'd get a exchange unit from repco. |
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| cruiza |
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yes I have checked tie rod and rack ends and from the sound and feel play is where column meshes with rack
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| hans hartman |
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{USERNAME} wrote: yes I have checked tie rod and rack ends and from the sound and feel play is where column meshes with rack what model car is it,some intermediate shafts have a uni joint for the angles.
_________________ R.I.P HANS HARTMAN |
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| frankieh |
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Isn't there a slop adjuster under the rack head?
I had the same issue with my wifes EF wagon and I solved it by making a reverse socket from a ground down mag nut. Then loosen the lock ring on the bottom of the rack and use the reverse socket to tighten the adjuster before relocking it. I found those instructions in my Gregories manual. I think you are only supposed to torque it up 5 foot pounds or so.. cheers Frank |
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| snap0964 |
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You can adjust that without a torque setting, til the rack starts binding mid travel, then back off slightly - better to do this with the rack out of the car for better feel.
Be good if the OP listed everything he's checked/not checked - so we don't have to keep guessing. Seems common with these threads though nowadays. 
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| frankieh |
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{USERNAME} wrote: You can adjust that without a torque setting, til the rack starts binding mid travel, then back off slightly - better to do this with the rack out of the car for better feel. Be good if the OP listed everything he's checked/not checked - so we don't have to keep guessing. Seems common with these threads though nowadays. yup.. I didn't have the rack out, but I did have the car up on stands so I could grab the wheels and stuff and look for the sloppy bits. had the wife rock the steering wheel back and forth gently a bit to settle it as I was tightening. I did try the torque setting the book suggested and found it woefully inadequate so in the end I did what you did. tightened it to binding and then backed it off half a turn. |
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| cruiza |
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I have found a company on the Sunshine coast QLD that will recondition the steer shaft for $80+GST and postage so will be posting off old one tomorrow will let you all know how it goes.
thanks for the replys |
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| cjh |
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{USERNAME} wrote: I have found a company on the Sunshine coast QLD that will recondition the steer shaft for $80+GST and postage so will be posting off old one tomorrow will let you all know how it goes. thanks for the replys Is it the uni's in the Intermediate Steering shaft????
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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| cruiza |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: I have found a company on the Sunshine coast QLD that will recondition the steer shaft for $80+GST and postage so will be posting off old one tomorrow will let you all know how it goes. thanks for the replys Is it the uni's in the Intermediate Steering shaft???? Yes it is from the fire wall to the rack on a EF, interesting to note the EF EL have different splines so I have been told so bit of a trap there. Ford have not stocked uni's for years and no one seems to stock them so the best bet was go to the wreckers and try your luck which is getting harder and harder as time goes by hence I posted this thread as I thought others might be interested |
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| TerroristGHIA |
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You can reco the shaft itself. Take the shaft out, knock the bell cover off the uni. You will see a pin that holds the uni in place. This is where they usually wear. Weld the pin, Grind it smooth, add black paint to the weld, re attach the bell and re install. Why pay 80 when thats all they do to them.
Cheers and hope that helps Brett
_________________ The Terrorist ED Retired due to RUST. |
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| cruiza |
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{USERNAME} wrote: You can reco the shaft itself. Take the shaft out, knock the bell cover off the uni. You will see a pin that holds the uni in place. This is where they usually wear. Weld the pin, Grind it smooth, add black paint to the weld, re attach the bell and re install. Why pay 80 when thats all they do to them. Cheers and hope that helps Brett Cheers for that but all the ones I have seen the uni works nice and smooth with no play on one axis but loose and rough on the other axis |
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| cruiza |
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I have been asked who did reconditioned the universal joint I t was a while ago now but
http://www.farrowsshaftingservice.com.au/services |
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