Here's mine
It's a kenwood 8incher spaced out with some mdf and foam so there is no vibrations
I don't want huge doof doof hence going the factory style
(The wire hanging down isn't for the sub, boot light)
Looks stock so I like it
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I’ve seen a lot of people on here doing mixed subs (brands and sizes) simply DONT

Not having a dig at all, but id rather people not get disappointed in hard work and think at the end "What is going wrong?"


15"s are not slower at response to music and need 12"s to follow quicker beats, its like saying a V8 is slower than a V6 cause it has 2 more cylinders

Mixing and matching... subwoofers are designed differently in ways people don’t see unless they trial, subs come in various setups from DVC to SVC, magnet sizing, RMS rating, excursion flex etc you put a SVC with a DVC sub, you’ll load the amp awkwardly and more than likely burn the voicecoils on the less rated sub, a 200RMS sub loaded with a 500RMS sub will burn it out trying to remain equal to power.

Also different subs require different internal box space, some subs perform better in a sealed box compared to ported, also how you position the port is important, you need to load the port by having it at the furthest point available from the subs, with a dual setup (centre) a single sub (opposite side) also how you fire the port and its Hz tuning, I personally tune between 25hz and 35hz, but its a listeners preference

Fibreglassing the inside of a box helps dramatically with reinforcing and moving more air, there’s a lot more scientific talk but I wont bore anyone

Using thicker MDF will benefit everyone! Using anything under 16mm is just a waste of effort, your screws and glue will break away, that’s if you’re using it as the box walls, if it’s a cover or anything NOT the box structure your fine haha

Sorry if anyone thinks I’m digging but I have a lot of friends who have these issues and are devastated once they see the errors, or been ripped off by shops or dealers with false dreams of their build, i.e. most JBHIFIs will sell you dog poo and claim its top of the rang.

I’ve been subject to these cons whilst in there looking for random bits and pieces, trying to sell me a Kicker CV series, claiming his rear window shattered from 2x12”s, I openly called him a liar and some other inappropriate names, he pulled his phone out to show me (factory box) You physically CANT shatter a rear window with a boot install, pressure is what shatters windows, sealed chambers causes pressure, unless your entire car is water proof and has the generated pressure inside then you’ll be able to accomplish the dream of shattering a window. I’ve seen walled cars struggle to cause a crack in the front windshield and clearing 150+db with a complete sealed cabin area, yes your boot might flex harder than Arnold Swartzenneger at a bodybuilding tournament, but that flex is causing air to escape, if its escaping out the boot its not reaching the cab = less sound to the listeners

Sound deadener is your best friend in getting a louder bass response and speaker quality from your ride, you want the sound inside the car! Unless you like standing outside the car listening Go nuts with the stuff, you cant overkill it, you don’t need to pay $$$ for Dynamat, find other brands, look at its thickness and reviews, Ive used Dynamat and brush on, I can barely tell the difference in the overall comparison, your doors and roof are big benefits to this! Might be a pain to pull everything back but you will love it after, that heavy thud closing the door is the best sound after you’ve completed, wait till you listen inside! You have a loud exhaust that kind of drones? Not anymore! You wont even notice it anymore! I had a straight pipe with a high flow cat and resonator under the cab on my VG Commodore Ute from a cammed 5L, sounded even better once I was inside the car, but on the outside it wanted blood!

Pet hate of mine… DO NOT TALK WATTS! Always look at RMS on anything, amps, subs, speakers etc! Someone who claims there’s running 1200watts usually is a marketing way of saying it has a lot of power… FALSE! 1200watts = 200-300RMS, all high SPL subs only talk RMS, cause the number of 2,500RMS would be close to 10,000watts (not a genuine number, just one I interpreted to suit)
1,200RMS vs 1,200Watts
500RWKW vs 500KW
Making kinda sense? If I can open up atleast a few peoples eyes to this, then my job is done, cause they will then pass it on to there mates and so on, please inbox me or anything if you need help, you can ask my opinion etc there are a lot of guys here who know about the same stuff, so just ask guys

Got mine finished a while back, forgot to put it in this thread.

I've gone for an IB (Infinite Baffle) setup, also known as Trunk Baffle.
Well it's not really IB in the true sense of the meaning, but as close as you can get in a car.
All the speaker, and other large holes on the parcel shelf are sealed so essentially the entire boot becomes the box.

I was going to put in a false floor but I really CBF working out the multiple layers that I wanted (mounting layer, show cover layer, everyday cover for dirty s**t), and then make a custom carpet, etc.
Then I noticed the parcel shelf is slightly recessed and the perfect depth for my amps.

The baffle is 2 layers of 16mm MDF glued and screwed together, then a layer of 6mm MDF to flush mount the subs. Most of the stiffness comes from the board being wedged in on the angle against the diff hump. I added a couple of extra brackets but not really needed.

Here's some photos in no particular order.

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Just my boot install in my 03 ghia ive been working on

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Just my boot install in my 03 ghia ive been working on

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Just my boot install in my 03 ghia ive been working on