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| dcstraight |
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snap0964 wrote: Yeah, it's been a long time, so my memory is a bit hazy. I remember there was a quirk when doing the front radius rod bushes. IIRC I fitted the front bush in the k frame, then the rear one, and with the radius rod on it's own pushed it through (so you could wiggle it around), with that large flat washer on the shaft. I think it was a fiddle to get both bushes to butt up to each other whilst doing this, and I think the radius rod had a step on that front shaft that the rear washer sits over. I think the rubber setup didn't have a washer behind that rear bush. I think I had enough threads on the front to just put the nut on, do it up to compress the bush for more threads, then undo and put the large round washer on and do it all up with the nut. Your list looks okay - I don't think there were any crush tubes (except for the lower suspension arm radius rod bush) - normally new ones come with the bushes if they were needed. You'll know when you trial fit the new bushes on the arm whether they have a snug fit, or are loose needing a crush tube. Once it's done up, you can wiggle the radius rod and see how much less flex compared to rubber there is - bearing in mind this arm is supposed to keep the lower suspension arm compliant. dcstraight wrote: Just checking the workshop manual and it shows a different story to what I pulled out - can I presume this is correct? The EF/EL's are the same - except where the front radius rod comes out with that big nut, the K frame has an extra ring tack welded there to help bush compression, they can sometimes come adrift when taking out the front rubber bush.Thanks for the info Ray...I'm still unsure - I've put the bush / washer assembly back as per workshop manual diagram (including crush tube not shown) and I'm getting a bit of a scraping sound when driving...only audible at low speeds. Apart from needing a front end wheel alignment, I can not help feel that something else is NQR. Will have to try and inspect again shortly... |
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| dcstraight |
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dcstraight wrote: Just checking the workshop manual and it shows a different story to what I pulled out - can I presume this is correct? Is anyone able to comment on the previously mentioned workshop diagram regarding use of crush tubes in the radius rod assembly or not using them with the SuperPro bushes? Does anyone have photos of their finished assemblies that they could post up? I only ask as I've noticed the SuperPro assembly with the crush tubes (and less washers) sits flusher to the K-Frame than the other existing side (nolathane - that is yet to be changed out!). I'd love to know as it's currently a PITA having to drive the car everyday! Any insight here would be a huge help 
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| dcstraight |
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Hi Everyone,
Despite not being able to get all the info on the radius rod question (very frustrating btw!) - I'm looking at getting my EL Ghias' suspension and bushes overhauled. As previously stated, I have Koni Yellows already in the rear with nolathane everywhere. I've heard using a combination of superpro and rubber bushes is a good way to maintain low levels of NVH but still some reasonable handling. I'm all ears to hear what combos work - where I should be using rubber and where I should be using superpro. Ok go!
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| snap0964 |
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So what are you talking about here Steve - rear suspension ?
I think with the radius rod setup, you'd need to dismantle one to know - it's been a few years so I can't remember.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| dcstraight |
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Hey Ray - actually bushing wise, the whole car...front and rear.
As for the radius rod assembly - I'm a bit stumped as to the required use of crush tubes or not. The existing assembly (dusting nolathane) does not have crush tubes, but the superpro kits come with crush tubes. snap0964 wrote: So what are you talking about here Steve - rear suspension ?
I think with the radius rod setup, you'd need to dismantle one to know - it's been a few years so I can't remember. |
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| snap0964 |
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We covered this on the first page of this thread ?
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| dcstraight |
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Sorry Ray - is this what you were referring to?
snap0964 wrote: Your list looks okay - I don't think there were any crush tubes (except for the lower suspension arm radius rod bush) - normally new ones come with the bushes if they were needed. You'll know when you trial fit the new bushes on the arm whether they have a snug fit, or are loose needing a crush tube. The SuperPro website says the crush tubes are somewhat important (http://www.superpro.com.au/why-superpro/technology), so I *presume* I need to use them. IIRC, the crush tubes fit perfectly on the radius rod and the bushes fit perfectly over the crush tubes, so I presume it's how it has to be. Because I didn't pull crush tubes out of the old assembly, I'm not sure how to introduce the new crush tubes to the assembly (ie order of bushes and washers etc). I think I may need to provide photos to make things clearer
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| MAD |
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SuperPro do tend to break the mould when it comes to bushes. They often re-engineer for better than OEM results.
Having a crush tube there would mean they can control the quality of the sliding surfaces for the bush. Not sure if I'm a fan of the metal-on-metal part of the crush tube on the radius rod though, but I would trust superpro to know what they're doing. Photos will be a huge help. |
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| snap0964 |
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Provided you have lubrication, the crush tube rotating on the radius rod shouldn't be an issue.
I've used rubber grease if I've run out of the provided grease with the bush kit. As you know, rubber bushes are quite different, as the crush tube is usually bonded to the rubber, so normally doesn't need lubrication, but can deteriorate/tear over time.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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