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snap0964 |
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You can simply do a continuity test from the battery -ve to the radiator frame, and while the car is running a voltage drop as well - what you're looking for is close to zero on both tests.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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rover5520 |
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Thanks for the replies.
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head_ache |
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Those big alloy rads off ebay are hit and miss. Clearance and and fan fitment is an issue especially on a 4L. I personally ran one on my EL v8 for almost 18 months with no issues until it started leaking from where one of the tubes goes into the end tanks and it ended up being the middle tube so it wasn't damaged from rubbing. even with the leak it worked well and just had to keep an eye on my water level and once a week top it up.
I have now gone back to a high quality stock replacement and its doing pretty much the same job at keeping the car running cool. So after all the effort I would suggest just invest in a high quality stock replacement radiator and having your cooling system flushed properly and a good thermostat fitted and good coolant and all should fine fine for many many many km's of driving |
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masshead |
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Hey. I have an XHII (1998) and the plastic tank cracked yesterday in 37°.
I've been looking at 2/3 core alloy radiators, but haven't been convinced yet. Thinking of going with a standard copper/plastic radiator but wanted to know if there was anything else out there that was better. All of my Falcons get services regularly, radiators serviced regularly, but they always seem to regret these REALLY hot days. I always let her cool down if the thermostat gets anywhere near the 'N' in normal. Anyway - please give me some advice here guys, I am looking for a more permanent solution and am happy to spend money where the value is met. Thanks J |
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SWC |
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masshead wrote: Hey. I have an XHII (1998) and the plastic tank cracked yesterday in 37°. I've been looking at 2/3 core alloy radiators, but haven't been convinced yet. Thinking of going with a standard copper/plastic radiator but wanted to know if there was anything else out there that was better. All of my Falcons get services regularly, radiators serviced regularly, but they always seem to regret these REALLY hot days. I always let her cool down if the thermostat gets anywhere near the 'N' in normal. Anyway - please give me some advice here guys, I am looking for a more permanent solution and am happy to spend money where the value is met. Thanks J If your water temp is getting up to N on Normal then I would think that you have a cooling system issue, water pump, blockage, stuffed thermostat. Your choice of radiators is; Plastic tank / Copper core (factory issue) Plastic tank / Aluminium core (a lot of the aftermarket radiators) Aluminium tank / Aluminium core ( ensure that the radiator is earthed) I have a full alloy radiator with nil issues (earthed to body as well as battery). |
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masshead |
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No typically it won't get that high.
It usually cruises around the 'L' part of Normal, but yesterday with 37 degrees, having to slow down in traffic for a long stretch and girlfriend wanted A/C... the car didn't like that, and as the needle slowly moved from the R to the N on the dash I knew she needed to at least cool down so I pulled over and found the plastic tank leaking on the top right hand side. We'd been driving for about 1 1/2 hours in the heat... and it's the original radiator. Should I still look into checking/replacing the water pump & thermostat? Thanks guys |
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SWC |
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If you system was running normaly before the split tank then all should be fine.
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frankieh |
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I bought one of these from ebay.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/50MM-Aluminum-Radiator-hose-Ford-Falcon-BA-BF-V8-Fairmont-XR8-XR6-Turbo-/281777314236 was very happy with the quality and it came with a full set of silicon hoses... for only a bit more than the local radiator shop wanted to fix my split end tank. |
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