Hi all

I need help with this car. I bought it about 4 months ago and it had a miss under load. I have replace the spark plugs, ht leads and coil. Checked the distributor cap and rotor arm, looks fine. I first started with the plus, gapped to 1.1mm. Then the coil, then the ht leads (after Saw them arcing at night). The problem persists. I changed the gap on the spark plugs to 0.8mm, no change. I looked at the engine again at night and the new ht leads (bougI cords) are also arcing and also at the coil.

The problem is where to start, as the ecu was changed and it doesn't have a brand name on it. I also see the intake air temp sensor is not connected. Also there is no vacuum hose fitted to the fuel regulater. Also it was fitted with a standard canister type coil, is this going to affect the car?

To me it could be anything, from the coil, ecu, vacuum, sensors. Any advice would be appreciated. I know it's a problem once someone has modified the wiring etc.

Regards Ken

Hi still haven't sorted out the misfire. Don't know if this is the problem. When you fit the corresponding ht to the distributor cap ( 1 on 1, 2 on 2 ect) the engine will not start, but if you fit the no1 ht lead to no 4 on the cap, 5ht to no 1, 3ht to 5, 6ht to 3, 2ht to 6 and 4ht to no 2 it starts but wit the miss. So took out the no 1 spark plug and turned the engine to tdc , timing mark on front pulley lines up. Took the distributor cap off and the rotor arm is pointing to no 4 on the distributor cap. It looks like the distributor is about 60° out. Any thoughts on what to do? If the distributor timing is out would it cause a misfire?

Thanks Ken

Take a photo of how thw dizzy is sitting.

Seems very odd.

This doesn't add up on your first post you had a miss under load, pull the cap off and look to see if there is a narrow signature on the hall sensor blade for number one. Connect up the air charge temp sensor and see what voltage drop you have on pin 25 cold engine on the ecu. fit the vacuum line back up to the pressure reg. The ignition system on these engines ran an e type coil and they had no oil in them, the thick film ignition module and the coil are matched pair, the primary winding and secondary windings are very low in resistance and when the driver switches on there is high primary current in the circuit. The coil you have on the car could be for an old car with points and might have high primary and secondary resistance, what I mean is one system will handle 10 amps of current the other around 4. Rotate the engine backward and forward and see how much slack is in the chain.