Thanks Snap,
I'm sure I could do it but I don't have enough time as it is. I'll pay them to do it.
I can certainly wait...The V10/6R80 conversion is first on the list anyway...fair bit of custom work to be done there. Intake manifold is the biggest job. Currently talking to different ECU suppliers about controlling this engine too.

Sounds like an ambitious project, but you'll achieve it without doubt.
For me just converting from a dizzy ignition to EDIS was enough - does run well mind you, seems reliable enough, although I'll see long term whether splitting the EF/AUI coilpack into 3 coils stands up or not.
Miss SSPS though - looks like the EL piggyback ECU needs to see a PIP signal to know when the engine is running, so a hybrid dizzy/cam sequencer is in progress.

I think it's do-able. Already dummied it up with a 4R75w case and it clears everything.
Starter motor is a bit of an issue but I have several options so should be able to get there. Stock headers are cast stainless steel and nicely done so I'll probably just extend them down if I can't get a down pipe up there to the std ball flange.
You could've run an EDIS-6 module on your EL EEC if you wanted? EF EECV has a habit of falling over. That's why they went back to distributor. Maybe a Hi-6 with the stock Dizzy was all you needed?

TBH I had no idea about the EDIS-6, just read up about it .
The coil/TFI system seems to be surprisingly reliable given it's age, and I have previously relocated the coil, and TFI, but the only remaining weak link is the hall effect sensor, if it fails you're essentially stuck doing a dizzy change by the side of the road. I guess the EF equivalent is the outer balancer walking towards the engine, chopping out the crank sensor
I went to the EF system as it was a cheap option, as I could get the bits for next to nothing, and the EL engine was easy to convert, with the mounting holes already there, you just had to run an M5 tap through them, put an EF balancer on, and so on. I split the coilpacks using free faulty items, as usually only the one coil was dropped. So for travelling all I was going to carry is a crank sensor, ECU, and a single two plug terminal coil. I've got an EL wagon and an EF XR6 wagon to do same to as well, as I have heaps of EF bits.
I have a J3 programmer and a few J3 chips as well, so the ECU support is taken care of. As you say, the EF system has it's failings, but I've found it to be good - they do drop the ISC driver most commonly, and I think the odd coilpack driver possibly too.
I actually don't have much left to do on the dizzy/sequencer setup I'm doing - if the hall effect fails, it just means the steering reverts to std, and the EF system will run without the sequencer as well being batch fire.
I always thought the EF's failed emissions testing as they are wired for SEFI, hence being released as batch fire, the EL dizzy was an interim as the AUI's had the same hardware as the EF's

Well Snap,
Even on V8's TFI's and HE's don't fail that often.
The one in our XH 5.0 just died at 354k. Not bad going. Of course the hotplate on top was heave ho'd long ago which helps alot.
I'm looking into the 4.0L EEC's at mo to see which I could overwrite completely to run '93-'95 Lightning code. Then you wouldn't even need an F-series EEC to run a V8.

cute little engine

 

 

Attachments:

IMG_5084_smlr.jpg [ 409 KiB | Viewed 467 times ]

Jeepers mate - fills the engine bay .
Oh yeah, don't get me wrong, both types of ignition system are quite good, although on the V8's the dizzy is easy to get to, unlike the I6's. As I say, I had the TFI and coil covered, but the Hall effect not. The cars are getting on in age.
My setup now as it stands, everything is easy enough to get to, even the coilpacks. You can install/remove one with the BBM, airbox, etc in place.
I suppose with your setup. you have some better brakes in mind ?

Yeah that's easier access!
Yes and that intake will likely be replaced with a 5.4 3V intake plus two more chopped off another. It's lower than the stock plastic one and the alternator will go outside the vee for a front t-body to come out where it was.
Yes. Nissan GTR 4 piston calipers on 13" discs probably.

As it looks, yes, I'd guess the bonnet won't clear that intake you have on now.
Yeah, I'm ungrading my cars to AUII calipers on the E series stubaxles - did the first pair with ED uprights given to me about 18 mths ago, got caught up with other things, recently got back onto this to do the other pair. Using machined EF/EL rotors as hubs, with 303mm Ford Escape/Mazda Tribute rotors slip on. This setup fits under the original 15" alloys, plus retains the E series +6 offset.
Both with have the AUII booster, the XH will get an AUII ute mast cyl, the EF XR6 wagon will get an AUII wagon mast cyl. So the fluid displacement on the fronts should be correct, along with the split points as well.

Well it might clear if reversed and inlet throat modified so the T-body can come out front. But yes two cut and shut 5.4 intakes will still be lower overall.
I might need that rack for sure now just drove the van home so I can take it over the pits tomorrow and it's a bit floaty.

Is that brake setup something that's been done before?

Well it might clear if reversed and inlet throat modified so the T-body can come out front. But yes two cut and shut 5.4 intakes will still be lower overall.
You could fit a shaker in the bonnet

I might need that rack for sure now just drove the van home so I can take it over the pits tomorrow and it's a bit floaty.
You might need to drop the arms down and check the tierods - while the arms are free, pull on them and check the inner rack arm balljoints. Could also be the intermediate shaft unijoint, or the roll pin in the shaft (welding fixes it), these are the usual culprits.

Is that brake setup something that's been done before?
Not to my knowledge - the usual is 330mm discs, but you need 17" rims to fit them - I wanted to retain my original alloys. I think I've got it all covered from an engineering perspective, using OEM specs as well. It surprises me the number of people I've talked to that never even looked at the hydraulic side of it - brakes are something you need to get spot on. I've done an AUII booster test fit to my EF XR6 wagon, since reading differing answers - yes, no, impossible. Short answer is yes it can be done, not too hard, the XH should be similar, and still clear the cruise control module as well.
There's some pics of my setup in the next few pages here: gearbox-suspension-brake-driveline-f4/machining-stub-axles-budget-big-brake-build-brakes-on-t112322-525.html