can you please tell me the best way to adjust a impco system thanks mickc

can you please tell me the best way to adjust a impco system thanks mickc

Just wanted to say a big thankyou to all who have posted in this thread. After following your instructions my Fairmont is running better on LPG than it ever has.

Im not sure if this is the correct place to ask this but i have a R90E converter in my car (AU Falcon). When the instilation took place a black ECU-like box was installed with various plugs and wires some of which connect to the Cars ECU was installed. I was hoping someone could explain what this is for? Is it to adjust the mixture under higher revs? My knowledge of LPG is VERY Limited am just curious as to what effect this may have on tuning?.

Thank You

Tried this it didn't work it was all workin b4 but now nothin works dosnt start on gas or switch over to gas

I have a 98 V6 Camry with the OMVL R90/E.

Has been running rough for almost a year!

Done this (as per OP post #1) just now. Took 10 minutes and now runs the same, as like it is on Petrol..!

Yipppeeee!



Thanks buddy!

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PS. Just noticed OP is from Twmba too.

Might add something else...

A few years back I had a Gunson Colortune to tune a Weber 32/36 Carb. This little gadget will also be invaluable in tuning your LPG system - just look at the flame kernel from the glass spark plug when adjusting your mixture settings (8/10mm screws).

This way, you can see if it is running too lean (white) or too rich (orange) as you want a blue kernel.

http://www.gunson.co.uk/item.aspx?code=G4074

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=gunson+colortune

You can find them on eBay / Amazon etc...

Hi Guys I have an AU with factory gas (Vailles) it has recently sprung a leak and been replaced, since then will not idle when up to temp. Taken back to gas guy cost another $150 for an idle solenoid that made no difference. I have scanned the forums on these units and hit a brick wall, the car is dual fuel and runs a treat on petrol. Have tried the "Learning" thing of 2mins in Drive with A/C on then two with A/C off then Neutral with A/C on and Neutral A/C off but only get to Neutral with A/C on before it stalls. Appears to have provision for extra gas for turning, in gear and a/c but just wont idle without one of the above.
Has anyone had similar??

you say replaced...... is that new or secondhand? I am guessing secondhand so you don't know if the vialle unit is any good. They are expensive and finicky as I understand it. Touch wood mine is running a treat in my Egas BF3

Replaced with "Alleged" fully rebuilt unit on a exchange basis by the guy who looked at it again and replaced the idle solenoid. he is also alleged reputable and his business been dealing with gas cars for years.

For anyone who needs it, I have attached the tuning instructions for the Landi 98SE-SM lpg complex converter.

You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

I have read this thread a few times by now. I have a situation and seems like this is the most relevant place for advice.
I have tuned my LPG and it starts absolutely fine. No hiccups no hunting. Runs ok for first few minutes, but invariably:
The revs dip too low and sometimes even stall, I managed to determine the situations when it is stalling/hunting:
1. Decelerating quickly (overrun)
2. Increased engine load while decelerating – Aircon, power steering (i.e. turning) Mostly turning
3. Auto gearbox attempting to downshift (never stalled but hunts)
Mind you, none of this happens when it runs on petrol.

I searched for answer and the clue seems to be from aa1car website:
"..The highest level of vacuum occurs when decelerating with the throttle closed. The pistons are trying to suck in air but the closed throttle chokes off the air supply creating a high vacuum inside the intake manifold (typically four to five inches Hg higher than at idle). When the throttle is suddenly opened, as when accelerating hard, the engine sucks in a big gulp of air and vacuum plummets to zero. Vacuum then slowly climbs back up as the throttle closes..."

Only common factors from the 3 situations above is the deceleration with increasing vacuum.
If nothing is wrong with petrol but revs dip or hunt on deceleration, I would presume it to be air-fuel mixture being too lean to power the car at that particular stage.
So, I tried to enrich the mixture by screwing out (anti clockwise) the sensitivity register (big brass screw) no improvement, tried with idle mixture (small screw) no improvement.
Now I am confused as to what mechanism is causing this stall/hunt and what can I do to fix it.
Before anyone suggest:
1. vacuum is Ok
2. changed oxygen sensor (it has a brand new sensor).

Any suggestion is welcome

Thanks

What year is the car and what brand of convertor sounds like an omvl

What year is the car and what brand of convertor sounds like an omvl

Just want to thank MacGyver for the tunning tips for OMVL R90/E, followed what you suggested and got the young fellas car running like new, thanks again great place for tips