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tripleexpansion |
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Hi Guys,
How can my mechanic connect the 70mm tickford throttle body onto my eec4 loom? The car has had a modified, rebuilt 220kw eec5 engine dropped in from an Au XR8 and rolled back to using a distributor to work with the eec4 loom. I REALLY want the 70mm one in there with the 70mm MAF, for obvious reasons. All advice greatly appreciated!
_________________ '91 NC Fairlane Mint Original Paint, Fresh uprated 220 to 270kw Xr8 motor, re cammed with custom high torque grind. LSD, Underdriven accessories, Hand controls (i'm a wheelchair user), Custom twin 2.5" steel exhaust into 3", Hurricane headers, |
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milo 302 |
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Grind down the blade of the t/b shaft a little so it fits inside your e series tps sensors,i did the same thing to my 65mm au t/b on my eb,works perfect,may have to elongate the tps holes to get enough adjustment to get the desired .98 volts.
As for the maf just use the e series sensor,ive also done this. It will need a decent tune to run with the eec4 ecu. |
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tripleexpansion |
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Ok. So i found out the guy who swapped the motor had the bloody tps just sitting there. Got the right bolts but its out of alignment. We got multimeter on it set at 20v dc but the voltage range showed .020 to .026 which is weird. i tried the multimeter on 200m dc and it displayed 1 not in correct place on display.
I put it on where it wants to sit and taped it temporarily anyway. Car idles good. Kick down worked. Revs up and down smoothly. It actually ran smooth without it even connected. AFR is good. I'm not happy with it the way it is though. Any info would be a massive help??
_________________ '91 NC Fairlane Mint Original Paint, Fresh uprated 220 to 270kw Xr8 motor, re cammed with custom high torque grind. LSD, Underdriven accessories, Hand controls (i'm a wheelchair user), Custom twin 2.5" steel exhaust into 3", Hurricane headers, |
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XFWAGON |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Ok. So i found out the guy who swapped the motor had the bloody tps just sitting there. Got the right bolts but its out of alignment. We got multimeter on it set at 20v dc but the voltage range showed .020 to .026 which is weird. i tried the multimeter on 200m dc and it displayed 1 not in correct place on display. I put it on where it wants to sit and taped it temporarily anyway. Car idles good. Kick down worked. Revs up and down smoothly. It actually ran smooth without it even connected. AFR is good. I'm not happy with it the way it is though. Any info would be a massive help?? You absolutely have to widen the holes in the sensor to allow you to get .98v key on engine off. On mine I had to open it up to within about 2mm of the walls. |
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