Hey guys, thought I would post this up as I know it can be a pain in the a** to repair let alone expensive to repair or change lock and or actuator repair on AU/BA or BF,you can buy the actuator repair kits on ebay alot cheaper than replacing the whole lock and actuator unit together.
I think I paid around $21 for 4 kits (enough for 1 sedan)
Tools are basic and I think most people could tackle this with ease.

Tools
needed; standard size Phillips driver/small size Phillips driver/T30 size star spanner or torx bit/side cutters
Remove door card/handle screws and disconnect window switch from door card,pull back liner to access lock and actuator.

T30 is to remove the lock and actuator from the door,unclip rod and slid out from door handle and disconnect the lock plug and remove lock assembly from car.

Other stuff;actuator repair kit/small zip ties and a bread bag clip.

Info added as I sort my photos etc

 

 

Attachments:

File comment: Tools IMG_20180602_23700.jpg [ 38.24 KiB | Viewed 435 times ]

File comment: Lock and actuator removed from car and new actuator kit. IMG_20180602_9727.jpg [ 30.83 KiB | Viewed 407 times ]

File comment: Finished after installing in my car,took photos of the process on the second (wifes car) IMG_20180602_24298.jpg [ 49.21 KiB | Viewed 471 times ]

Last edited by johnnyeHCF on Sun Jun 03, 2018 3:31 pm, edited 2 times in total.

First step is removing the two scews holding the actuator to the lock mechanism and cut the two zip ties holding the wiring then you can remove the four screws holding the actuator body together,remove cover to reveal the actuator motor and gears/springs.
The kits come with everything you need to overhaul the actuator,in my car the motor was dead in the wifes the gear rod was snapped.

 

 

Attachments:

File comment: Actuator removed from lock mech. IMG_20180602_328.jpg [ 36.33 KiB | Viewed 440 times ]

File comment: Pull gear rod and spring and center bits out and pry motor out from its back,carfully pull one wire at I time from old motor to new and push new motor back into place. IMG_20180602_21456.jpg [ 43.32 KiB | Viewed 436 times ]

File comment: Cover removed. IMG_20180602_47546.jpg [ 47.56 KiB | Viewed 394 times ]

After you've removed the old gear rod/springs and center bits and changed the motor you can assemble the new gear and bits using the old as a guide,the smaller size spring guide for the center goes on the gear side,the bread bag clip is cut as in pic to hold the outside of the spring on the gear side while you carefully push the outer of the other side spring into place while keeping the center slide peice in its guide.

 

 

Attachments:

File comment: Bread bag clip cut into shape to hold spring. IMG_20180602_44174.jpg [ 28.46 KiB | Viewed 404 times ]

File comment: New gear rod/springs and center bits back in with bread bag clip keeping gear side spring in place. IMG_20180602_22198.jpg [ 39.19 KiB | Viewed 973 times ]

File comment: New motor in place. IMG_20180602_33349.jpg [ 41.57 KiB | Viewed 437 times ]

Once you've put the actuator cover back on with the four screws add the first zip tie on the wiring as in pic,center the actuator lever in the lock mech and put the two large screws back in to hold actuator to lock mech then the second zip tie goes on and the process is finished.

Good to note that the car should be unlocked when the lock is removed and same for putting the lock back in car-it should be unlocked and the lock should be in the unlocked position when reconected back to the car,should not hear any actuator noises and only the cabin light should come back on-put lock into position and put screws back in and tighten connect rod back to door handle and press on clippush the liner up close door and lock car checking door before putting door back together.

 

 

Attachments:

File comment: Heres the old bits,wifes was drivers side rear/broken gear rod,mine was passenger side rear and motor was dead,so its worth getting the whole kit. IMG_20180603_2658.jpg [ 45.67 KiB | Viewed 380 times ]

File comment: Lock and actuator back together with second zip tie. IMG_20180602_24298.jpg [ 49.21 KiB | Viewed 418 times ]

File comment: Actuator cover back on and first zip tie. IMG_20180602_1934.jpg [ 41.55 KiB | Viewed 381 times ]

Last edited by johnnyeHCF on Sun Jun 03, 2018 3:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.

great read.... did similar & bought spare gearrods [white plastic pieces what ever called?]. havn't needed to repair any of the locks just yet ... but you never know lol. didn't think to get some spare motors at the time.


Cheers

what did you use for 'lube' on the new motor worm gear etc etc?

Hey Mad,luckily for both of them there was sufficient grease left in the cavity but I think its lithium grease/white type stuff,cheers Johnny.

ok .. thanks. in the pics it doesn't look like there is much/any.

Yea the pics its hard to tell but there was sufficient grease left,whats happening with the AU-McBarra?

Sooo I tried to sort my dads BA out(bloody door locks of course)try to lock with key and they automatically unlock-which made me think one of the locks had been connected the wrong way-all locks work and are connected right way-so now I have to check all the damn wiring unless someone knows what else could cause this?

will need to work out which one is faulty i believe, which involves disconnect each one in turn.




yello peril [AU xtaxi] was never going to be barra powered. was supposed to be manualised at one stage .... lol! will hopefully be replaced with a white [yello] peril [BF wagooon dedicate LPG xtaxi] as the rust is sprouting!

Yea bloody rust-should see the rust in the XG looks good from outside but I know where it all is-massive amount!

Yea bloody rust-should see the rust in the XG looks good from outside but I know where it all is-massive amount![/quote]

yeah .... has it in the inner door skins - all doors. driver's side 'C' pillar [good size hole too & currently filled with fibreglass], drivers side roof channel between the 'B' & 'C' & some showing up between the 'C' & 'D' above glass. passenger side between 'C' pillar & 'D' along window top channel showing thru [not game to touch as drivers side 'C' got big real quick!]. currently waiting for the annual tax time to put the BF on the road. still has a coupla faults which i don't think will be hard to clean up.

how's the XF

yeah .... has it in the inner door skins - all doors. driver's side 'C' pillar [good size hole too & currently filled with fibreglass], drivers side roof channel between the 'B' & 'C' & some showing up between the 'C' & 'D' above glass. passenger side between 'C' pillar & 'D' along window top channel showing thru [not game to touch as drivers side 'C' got big real quick!]. currently waiting for the annual tax time to put the BF on the road. still has a coupla faults which i don't think will be hard to clean up.

how's the XF [/quote]

Ahh the XF,slow going atm-but no rust at all (which is bloody amazing)have made the decision to go all out and run e85 on the egas engine -so doing crow cams valve springs and retainers/still manual but have upgraded to a TR6060 which is why I'm doing billet oil pump gears,also thinking about using the eflex after tune mainly for long trips etc....
Want to do this right from the start,so full body rubber kit with fresh paint and am looking into 9" diff with billet axles as I already have a Torsen 9"lsd centre and 4.11:1 diff gears (not sure about the diff gears yet as it may render first gear useless) so still a lot to work out yet.