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| dcstraight |
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Are you losing brake fluid Marshall ?
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| Mash85 |
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well, yes. its confusing tho. last night at my mates place we could see it dripping every 10 or so seconds. but there hasnt been any noticeable drop in fluid level
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| khanacross |
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hi, with my au im not loosing any fluid , and i did not bleed mine when i replaced rotors and pads i just pushed pistons back replaced pads and rotors then just pumped pedal couple times and its been a sponge ever since,?????? ken
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| dcstraight |
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I wonder if there is any damage to the master cyl seals when pushing the piston back into the caliper housing via clamping it etc...presuming everyone uses a clamp and the old inner pad to push it back in ?
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| Mash85 |
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all fixed thanks to Cam at Hightek. Replaced the leaking master cylinder and fitted braided lines on the front. Pedal is now much firmer and doesnt travel half as much. Still a bit dodge when they are cold, but once they warm up they're pretty awesome.
thanks for all the help and advice. bring on the next winton fun day 
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| phongus |
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good to hear u got it all fixed mash.....now i might need to check up on my brakes.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| kiwi in oz |
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Where did you get your braided brake lines and how much?
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| Mash85 |
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Hightek brakes. they are a site sponsor. shoot Cam off an email he should be able to give u a price. im not sure how much mine were as i had some other stuff done aswell and just got a final price.
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| luke111 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: ALSO after bleeding the system REMOVE the plastic brake fail switch on the master cylinder, give the brakes a few hard pumps and replace the switch. this resets the proportioning valve and returns the pedal to correct height and feel.
  I just flushed the fluid on my ef. still had a dodgy pedal. i mean it stopped ok but i could feel like the pedal was hitting a stop halfway down and the pedal dropped to 1/2 way very early. i pulled the switch out pumped it a couple of times and refitted it. FIXED IT. Thanks!! |
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| Climaxxx777 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: ALSO after bleeding the system REMOVE the plastic brake fail switch on the master cylinder, give the brakes a few hard pumps and replace the switch. this resets the proportioning valve and returns the pedal to correct height and feel. Absolute legend! Fixed my brakes... only took three apparent brake specialists, but really they had no idea. All fixed in less than 5 mins.. |
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| dcstraight |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: ALSO after bleeding the system REMOVE the plastic brake fail switch on the master cylinder, give the brakes a few hard pumps and replace the switch. this resets the proportioning valve and returns the pedal to correct height and feel. Absolute legend! Fixed my brakes... only took three apparent brake specialists, but really they had no idea. All fixed in less than 5 mins.. Did you have to remove the switch or just unplug the loom from it? I will be trying this out before leaving tonight. Wonder if it works for AUs as well. |
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| 351reaper |
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ok this is a interesting thread as l was and am having major issues still after doing what l read , l have no leaks in lines or anything went right thru the lot the lines master cylinder and the abs module no oil leak , took master off the booster to see if any leaks none,,, no leaks in anything and pedal is still rock hard with engine not running but a soon as l start it the bloody pedal straight to the floor still when l go to use the brakes.. do l take the switch out then start the car then pump the bakes a few times to help reset the portioning valve or leave engine off as lm stumped,, booster an master is about a year old as the car they came off was my old el xr that was destroyed by a tree in the yard . l moved the car into back yard and brakes worked perfect still even tho the car was wrecked with tree landing on roof and transferred all brake stuff from the car to the new one l have
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