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351reaper |
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Ok l use to own a el xr6 but it was killed by a tree in my yard during a storm , l scored myself a ef xr6 that was clean but had blown motor and some s**t missing from it ,,,, l took everything from my el an swapped it to the ef which included the whole complete harness from the car which was dash bay an body so l could run my el motor in it,, ok now the fun happens l took all brake parts out of the el an fitted to the ef body which was booster abs lines everything .. Brake on the el worked when l moved the car in back yard to strip it down an swap all l could to the ef , an l mean they worked like normal .. after dong all l had to do with the straight transferre to new shell brakes were bled and everything,, engine off brake pedal like normal hrd but as soon as l strat the motor pedal goes straight to floor an abs lite is on
No leaks in lines or anything went right thru the lot the lines maser cylinder and the abs module no oil leak , took master off the booster to see if anyleaks none,,, no leaks in anything … Now lm stumped as brakes were perfect in the el couple of days before l did the full swap to the ef body that's pretty much now all el except for the metal body itself an tags lol Booster master cylinder be about a year old so lm at a loss as ppl say oh its the booster its f**k or the master cylinder is f**k cause I be leaking an its not so WTF?? cant move the car with engine running as l have no bloody brakes bt do when it the engine is off,,, I cant have a vacume leak anywhere as l disconnected the hose from the booster blew smoke thru it into the bloody thing an couldn't see anysmoke coming from anywhere except from out of the air pod turned around an fitted a hose just the correct size to fit hole in booster with no pv valve and nope no smoke came out anyther from that either So what would be causing me to have total loss of bloody brakes an be ready to put a match to the prick of a thing?? Attachment:
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Mad2 |
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i remember reading somewhere that the switch for the brake fail light needs to be removed & something else to fix this problem.
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351reaper |
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{USERNAME} wrote: i remember reading somewhere that the switch for the brake fail light needs to be removed & something else to fix this problem. aint heard of that one before , brake fail lite switch be on the master cylinder?? hmm if there is something somewhere be great if someone has a link or something to this matter |
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Mad2 |
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Climaxxx777 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: i remember reading somewhere that the switch for the brake fail light needs to be removed & something else to fix this problem. aint heard of that one before , brake fail lite switch be on the master cylinder?? hmm if there is something somewhere be great if someone has a link or something to this matter It happened to me in my AU3 XR8.... OK.. undo your overflow for your coolant move it to one side. Underneath the master cylinder is a plastic switch about two inches long. Unplug the switch wire, then anti clockwise unwind it by hand. DO NOT use a spanner etc to unwind it as it is plastic. Don't worry no coolant will come out as it's only for the proportioning valve. Once out, jump in the car and press the brake pedal about 8 times down hard...up down up down etc till about 8 times. Then wind the switch back in , plug the wire back up and go for a drive. It took 4 brake "specialists" and no result. I did some digging and this was the cure. Good luck |
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351reaper |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: i remember reading somewhere that the switch for the brake fail light needs to be removed & something else to fix this problem. aint heard of that one before , brake fail lite switch be on the master cylinder?? hmm if there is something somewhere be great if someone has a link or something to this matter It happened to me in my AU3 XR8.... OK.. undo your overflow for your coolant move it to one side. Underneath the master cylinder is a plastic switch about two inches long. Unplug the switch wire, then anti clockwise unwind it by hand. DO NOT use a spanner etc to unwind it as it is plastic. Don't worry no coolant will come out as it's only for the proportioning valve. Once out, jump in the car and press the brake pedal about 8 times down hard...up down up down etc till about 8 times. Then wind the switch back in , plug the wire back up and go for a drive. It took 4 brake "specialists" and no result. I did some digging and this was the cure. Good luck its not a au and l took the switch out an same stupid problem hard pedal with engine off an straight to floor again soon as its running l did notice when l bled brakes all over again to see if that would help left front if l undo the bleeder a lil more than just cracking it to bleed it it bubbles around the thread which is weird as they are all brand new nipples on all the brakes , chucked another set on the front repeated all above again same issue .. somethings rootd an l think it could be my abs system is screwed so lm gonna try relacing the whole unit from a running donour when l can an see if that will work |
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