Hey guys,
Appreciate if anyone can find a hole in my diagnostic skills here, because this has got me stumped!

The fuel gauge has not worked in my BA MKI XR6T since I have owned it.

- The previous owner suggested it was the sender, and after a little reading which confirmed this is a common problem, I ordered a new sender.
- When I removed the old sender, I tested it's resistance, and the resistance changed nicely across the full sweep. It matched the behaviour of the new item. I installed the new one anyway.
- After replacing the sender, there was no change, so I measured the resistance across the yellow/green and corresponding black wire from the outside of the fuel pump assembly to confirm there was a good connection from inside the tank to outside.
- I jacked one side of the car up, the resistance reading changed. I put more fuel in, the resistance reading changed again.
- I removed the instrument cluster and measured the resistance across the yellow green and the black wire at the cluster plug. Resistance value matched that read at the rear.
- I paid someone $10 to 'hire' me their cluster. I installed theirs, turned the key on, STILL ON EMPTY.
- Even though this should mean the cluster is not at fault, I was stuck, so I dismantled my cluster to the point that I switched the stepper motor between the tacho and the fuel gauge. I connected the cluster up with these motors swapped, and the tacho still worked. The fuel still did not.

In theory I've eliminated the sender, the wiring between sender and cluster, and the cluster, and yet I still have zero fuel level.

Halp! Please I'm stupid!

i'm wondering "if" it's a faulty connector ?

At the cluster? That would fit the symptoms...

yep at the cluster. i'm only saying that coz u fitted a differant cluster. and i'm guessing.

suggestions

check for voltage at y/g wire at sender unit - instruments connected ignition on wont have voltage if dash connection faulty
also connect multimeter voltmeter across black wire to y/g to verify you have ground circuit

try turning key off and removing fuses 27 and 29 for 15-20 seconds refit fuses then recheck gauge


remember to cycle ignition off and wait awhile when testing fuel gauge before turning key back on as gauge is dampened.and will not give proper readings if you change something without cycling key

have ford or someone with a descent scan tool run instrument self test to check all the gauges

Possibly has had connections swapped around for fuel gauge ie.y/g and b. May have had pins at dash or near sender repaired/removed and put back together wrong .
Y/g is sensor and b is ground return from gauge not a direct earth from body -
changes which end resistance is read from as well

how have you gone