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| XR9UTE |
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Both MAF's are the same but, I'd get the whole lot as a matter of course.
From memory Extractors are the same on both? possibly ceramic coated? I had a set off a 200kw engine and they were not coated. EEC is the same for both. Here's a thread about the engine differences.. ford-v8-f2/differences-between-standard-au-v8-xr8-220kw-au-v8-t117401.html Camshafts are different. |
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| EFFALCONMAN |
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Cheers XR9Ute.
I am thinking of taking the whole motor, however I am conscious that my engine is a known entity to me in terms of the condition of the short block, plus the cam is a slightly more aggressive profile in the Series 2 200kw donk. The harmonic balancer is shattered in the Series 3 motor plus god knows what else. So I'm thinking combine those good parts, with heads and throttle body from the 220kw donk. Then it's a matter of which push rods I should be using with the series 2 cam and series 3 heads/rockers.
_________________ Too many Fords and too much cash "invested" over the years. Last edited by EFFALCONMAN on Fri Mar 18, 2016 2:27 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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| XR9UTE |
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Yes, you'd be wise to be wary of the bottom end of an engine with a smashed balancer.
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| EFFALCONMAN |
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Cheers mate, agreed 100% when my current motor got the tick of approval from the mechanic.
Unfortunately he has no idea and no interest in engine building. Hence my questions on which rods/lifters/rockers etc to work with. I am hoping I can use the 220kw heads complete with valve train as is (out of the series 3) with my series 2 XR cam, short block and rods. If I can't get those answers here, I'll need to track down an engine builder who does weekend work, accepts combinations of cash and booze plus my amateur hands.
_________________ Too many Fords and too much cash "invested" over the years. |
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| XR9UTE |
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Theoretically the base circles of both cams should be the same. So either pushrods should work because Ford wouldn't like to use different length pushrods anyway.
Apart from all that you should be able to just bolt the whole lot on then check your pre-load with a dial gauge. Or just check you have 1/2 to 3/4 turn on the rocker bolt with the cam on its base circle when you tighten the bolt. |
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| thewizardoz |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Here's a list of things I would do to a 5.0L HO engine without delving deep into the engine straight off the bat. You don't of course have to do them in this order but it is a kind of logical order. 1. Remove hotplate off the top of the engine and throw away. 2. Remove distributor boot. 3. Bump your base timing to 32-34 degrees(depends on fuel and the vehicle itself). 4. Adjust your TPS to 0.98volts. 5. Make/modifiy or add a cold air box. 6. Quality(ie not topgun) ignition leads and spark plugs properly gapped. 7. Underdrive pulleys. 9. EF/EL thermofans(for EB-D of course) 10. Multi spark ignition. 11. 65mm(max 70mm) T-body and EGR spacer(machine intake throat to match EGR spacer and blend in) 12. While upper intake is off you could lift the rocker covers and fit 1.7 rockers 13. Now is a good time to fit a phenolic spacer(a 3/8" - 1/2" one is all you need) 14. Headers 1 5/8" primaries(No Bigger!) 15. 2 1/4" - 2 1/2" twin exhaust 16. Bore your 55mm MAF to 58ish mm or easier still use a 70mm AU MAF body with your 55mm hotwire. 17. Electronic tuning(ideally you would revert your base timing to stock before you start) 18. Think about changing your fuel pump (don't go straight for a 255Lph if you don't actually need it) I won't go into everything here but Read and understand all of this and I won't have to..... http://www.fordracingparts.com/download ... aptors.pdf 17. Think about changing injectors (check injector duty at full noise to check how close you're getting to 85%) At this point you could think about going inside the engine but you could also do some mild exhaust side porting while the heads are still on the engine. Just undo your rocker gear to shut the exhaust valves and use plenty of compressed air to clean it out. After this I'd be changing heads first then the intake, then maybe, the cam. Remember the stock cam is actually very good. I would go straight to aftermarket alloy heads. In my opinion, 40p's are a stop gap measure at best. In regard to "3. Bump your base timing to 32-34 degrees(depends on fuel and the vehicle itself)." won't that just make it ping like hell?? And in regard to "4. Adjust your TPS to 0.98volts." what will that achieve please?? (I've got NFI!) Cheers. |
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| XR9UTE |
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Re #3 it says; depends on the fuel and the vehicle itself. So, obviously, if it pings back it off a bit. Generally though, you can run a coupla degrees over the stock 30. I always use 98 and this takes full advantage of that.
Setting your TPS as close to 1V as possible without going over just reduces the delay between idle mode and part throttle mode. Eg; if it's down at say 0.75V it has to pass through 0.25V before it goes out of idle mode. |
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| EFFALCONMAN |
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Ok, if not top gun leads...which should I go with?
I'm in the process of needing to replace old leads as well as plugs, so I'm thinking I may as well go the whole hog, Bearing in mind the motor shall be stroked, and IF funds allow mods to the top end and cam. So, leads, plugs and maybe even ignition coils...what's the better brands? MSD, Eagle? Bosch? OEM? ICE? Eagle seem to have a good range,their eliminator series? 8 or 9mm? OEM leads are a bit ridiculously expensive.
_________________ Too many Fords and too much cash "invested" over the years. |
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| XR9UTE |
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Eagle are very good.
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| tidy au |
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hi all I have a series 1 au v8 very straight and tidy looks good factory extractor, twin exhaust nice deep note, id like to know what mods I can do to get it off the mark better and keep the acceleration up there very dowey as standard engine
thanks |
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| XR9UTE |
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I believe some very early AU's had std HO engines(especially in utes) so read the following and remember the differences.
I just removed some of the other stuff that applies more to E-series/std HO engines. For an AU engine with 40p heads; 1. Remove hotplate(if it has one) off the top of the engine and throw away. 4. Adjust your TPS to 0.98volts. 5. Make/modifiy or add a cold air box. 6. Quality ignition leads and spark plugs properly gapped.(factory leads are actually very good if still in good condition) 10. Multi spark ignition. Expensive with direct ignition so maybe leave till last. 12. While upper intake is off you could lift the rocker covers and fit 1.7 rockers even just on the intake side. 13. Now is a good time to fit a phenolic spacer(a 3/8" - 1/2" one is all you need) 14. Headers 1 5/8" primaries(No Bigger!). If your AU has the crappy squashed HO headers you need to do this otherwise no real advantage changing. 15. 2 1/4" - 2 1/2" twin exhaust 17. Electronic tuning - AU's run quite rich in the top end for safety. Good gains can be had from leaning them out. 18. Think about changing your fuel pump (don't go straight for a 255Lph if you don't actually need it) I won't go into everything here but Read and understand all of this and I won't have to..... https://performanceparts.ford.com/downl ... FIComp.pdf 19. Port match lower intake to heads, and upper to lower. 20. Think about changing injectors (check injector duty at full noise to check how close you're getting to 85%). Not engine related but a minimum of 3.45:1 gears in the rear will help things along nicely. Wouldn't go lower than 3.7's unless you have done much more engine work. |
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| blakey72 |
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What about changing diff ratio's? I want my AU2 Tickford ute to remain as stock as possible. Has anyone got an AU2 200kw ride and put a CAI in? A couple of mechanics think the the stock intake is very good until it hits the TB and intake manifold.
Apparently the intake manifold is really restricting and isn't smooth inside? Has anyone modified this manifold? I'm told there's a mod you can have done which puts a smooth coating on the inside which gives smoother air flow. |
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| Mad2 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: What about changing diff ratio's? I want my AU2 Tickford ute to remain as stock as possible. mines a six ..... changed diff ratio from 3.23 to 3.45 ....... betterer acceleration going by the seat of my pants  canna help with ya other queries..... 
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