The last couple of days my EL Falcon has been having starting issues. These nights have been colder, maybe 5-10 celsius and I think thats a factor. First thing in the morning while its still cold, the engine will crank quickly but won't start. When I open the car door, the interior light comes on, turn to acc and the interior lights go out and there's a clicking noise coming from behind the radio. When the ignition is turned on the clicking noise stops, and also the wiper washers won't work (they normally do), and the engine cranks over but won't start. The wipers work, exterior lights work as well. I can hear the fuel pump prime when the ignition is switched on, but I haven't checked for spark yet. If I wait til the outside temp warms up, I put the key in and there's no clicking noise from behind the radio, wiper washers work, the interior light stays on in acc and ignition on, and slowly dims down as it should, and the car starts without a problem. It has a new battery and alternator, I've checked all fuses with a multimeter and they're all ok. I removed and installed all fuses and relays and checked the connections I could get to. I've hit the dash area near my left knee but it still won't start when cold. Does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks in advance.

Check earths at battery are ALL connected and tight
Check earths near Engine computer ( left kick panel)
What is the battery voltage when fault is present measure across fuses as well
When problem exists use a test light to check across fuses for full power to all fuses including accessory ignition and battery feed
Check main connection plug to ignition switch is not burnt ignition switch itself maybe faulty
Possibly have a faulty BEM try disconnecting and reconnecting plugs when playing up or replace
What is smart lock light doing before and after ignition on also does it flash any codes when you switch to accessory position

Hi TedW,
Thanks for your reply.
I've checked the earths at the battery and in the engine bay and all are clean and tight.
The earth near the engine computer (Left Hand Kick Panel) wasn't tight and the screw had stripped its thread. Here's hoping that was it.
The plate on the back of the ignition switch was loose, so I tightened it by tapping the indentation down a bit more and now its tight. Here's hoping again. However, it wasn't burnt.
I have disconnected and reconnected the plugs at the BEM.
I'll check the voltages across the battery and all fuses, and the smart lock light early tomorrow morning.
It plays up when parked outside, as last night I had it parked in the garage out of the colder weather and early this morning it started without a problem. Tonight its back outside again, so I'll see how it goes tomorrow.

Overnight the car was parked outside and the engine wouldn't start and had all the other problems as previously listed.
Battery voltage this morning at the terminals when faulty was 12.63v.
Ignition fuse under the bonnet was 12.52v.
Inside fusebox top row of fuses was 12.37v.
Inside fusebox middle row of fuses was 12.09v.
Inside fusebox bottom row of fuses was 12.22v.
The smartlock in Acc was blinking normally (slow), and was off when ignition was on, and was not blinking any codes.

When playing up try warming the BEM with a heat gun or hair dryer and see if dome light and washers work and if it starts
Check ground circuit G7 if you have access to workshop manual. By memory I think you should find it under trim at bottom of windscreen above instruments

Good idea about the hair dryer, and I'll check that earth as well.

The hair dryer trick worked. When it was playing up, I used the hair dryer to get some heat into it and all the problems went and the car started. I did it again the next morning to confirm it and getting the heat into it worked again. So this afternoon when the car was working ok, I took the BCM out from under the dash and put it in the freezer for 30 mins to simulate the cold morning temps. When I reinstalled it, the car had its problems again and did not start. I applied heat to it for 30 seconds and the engine started. I opened up the unit to check all the soldering and diodes etc, and all looks ok with my limited knowledge, however, the clicking noise is coming from one of the small relays on the internal circuit board. Are these BCM's repairable or should I take a chance on a second hand unit?

would suggest a s/hand one from wreckers - fit and leave key on for 30 min to allow key relearn

would still look at trying to repair other unit as a spare or for your own satisfaction

use a strong magnifying glass and check for faulty connections around where terminal pins attach to circuit board will appear like a grey band around connection - or just re solder all connections

could also be problems with the capacitors? as due to old age & breaking down/leaking?

I've ordered one and I'll do the relearn too. Don't the capacitors pop the top off them when they fail? These ones look ok and there isn't that burnt electronic smell to it. However I'll check the soldering and try to test them with a multimeter. I'll have another look once the replacement is fitted and it's all sorted.

I installed the secondhand BCM and the problem has gone. It's all working as it should and the engine starts with no problems at all in the cold. Thanks Ted for pointing me in the right direction and getting me out of trouble.

Glad to hear that problem is fixed
Campbelltown boys need to stick together

have you opened up the old BCM & had a visual of the internals?

Sorry for the delay Mad2, I wasn't aware you replied. I did open it up and had a good look inside, but even with a strong magnifying glass it all looked ok. The second hand one is still working fine so I'll leave that one in. Recently the dizzy failed so I replaced it with a new one and all is well again.
Thanks for your help.

no probs