Hello,

I have a 2000 AU series II ute with smartshield issues. The car is immobilised and no-one seems to want to fix it up here (Ford dealer refused outright to even look at it, too old) so I have resorted to educating myself a bit to try to understand why one tiny piece of technology can hold my otherwise mechanically sound car to ransom. I have to say it seems the most ridiculous bit of kit!

I found information on the J3 chip and how it bypasses the smartshield system (perfect)and I contacted an auto electrician who said he would fit it for me but I am still not quite sure how it works. I emailed TI performance and asked them and the guy emailed back saying yes the chip will work, send me the catch code when you order but then I found a warning in the install guide that if the car is immobilised with the chip in it only ford can fix it (Ford wont!) which makes me wonder, if it is already immobilised what happens?

Can anyone tell me, if the car is already immobilised (red hand flashing fast on dashboard) will the J3 bypass the whole mess and let me start my car?

Thanks in advance, hope it all makes sense

No. The j3 will bypass smartshield, but it sounds like your PATS system is active. This can only be fixed with the correct scan tool.

Funnily enough, installation of a j3 onto my au2 xr8, caused the pats to come on and I had to get a mobile mech to fix it. There was only 1 in town that had the right tool. Cost me about 100 from memory. They need to be able to clear a pats code. This was what I remember from Jason at ti. Apparently I installed it wrong or something.

This is partially incorrect.

J3 Chip can disable the smartlock and smartshield imobilisation.

I cant remember 100% for AU, however you would still need to bypass the Smartshield unit for starter (join Wires), and possibly fuel pump as well so that the car can be started

The light may then flash on the dash, but the ECU will not stop your car from running.

TIPerformance.com is able to help you, including providing a pre-programmed chip. You may have to join two jumpers on your ECU, or get help from someone who knows close to you. You will also have to clean the J3 connector.

The second alternative here is that you can send your ECU to a person in Sydney (Name is Nathan) - on FordForums. He is able to reprogram your ECU to not require PATS without the J3 chip.

I have the same issue, just discussing the possibility of purchasing a new j3 chip to disable smartshield and will bypass the start disable situation to enable the vehicle to start. Has anyone here completed this modification, how can i get in touch with Nathan ? I am putting my mobile number out here should he wish to contact me. I would be willing to consider having the ECU pats disabled for a fee, depending on what the more economical option will decide.

Well, that was 2018. The gear to do this has gone. I believe SCT may still be able to flash an AU2/3 to disable smartshield, but you may run out of extended tuning options. The J3 chip is still a good bet. ive been running one for the past 5 years now with no issues.

Cool, thanks for the info, am waiting now for the guys top get back to me about the j3 chip. What are you running your chip on atm ?

Current chip is in an AU 5.0 200kw EEC in an EL Fairmont.

TIPerformance are the only guys for J3. Great Support too

Nice, I will give them a go, as you understand, with the exception of disabling the immobilizer in this AU utility, the ute is standard. I tried a similar mod in a BA ute for a customer of mine, successfully started after flashing the ecu, however, lost all stereo and heating controls. The radio had security built in and got its nickers in a knot because of the disabled pats in the ecu. That customer like most of mine don't want the expensive key replacement and layer of complexity that the pats system provides. I will be doing the same mod to my BA station wagon but will be running the double din conversion, heating controls and aftermarket stereo. That way can get around the factory pesky pats in it also. Really hate how manufacturers cram things down my throat without asking like pats, abs, srs etc.

I already know about the starter relay being disabled by the BEM, can easilly fix that.

This is the double din conversion i want to fit to piss the factory IEC off and stereo system. Probably aware of it already i guess. Had mixed reviews from people, seen a couple of successful installs on youtube so gonna give it a go.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/39417814107 ... BMzOqN3PRg

Hi.
where is the replacement key expensive?, i have bought a few for her BF & my BA [for about $25 a pair from memory?] plus had them cut [about $45 for the pair from memory?] & i installed em [zero cost] for way less than ford ever will [my car was column change as well as door lock change. which will be changed again one day to a BF style key]. as far as aftermarket stereo/ICC replacements go i wish you luck as some have issues & some don't with either versions. me, i'm happy with the 6 stack colour screen single zone ICC i have now fitted [from the standard mono screen ICC to the XR ICC to 6 stacker] ...... which i will eventually replace with a 6 stack colour screen dual zone ICC i have here waiting [and all the bits that a Fairlane has & some Territory parts . . . . . . in a wagon] for fitment [plus i have personally replaced a colour screen due to a bad screen]. Her BF was upgraded to a Dual Zone colour screen ICC as her original was the mono screen. we [currently] don't have any issues with the PAT's system with all the changes done to either car. we both have factory handsfree bluetooth systems for the ph's [which i fitted] with hers being the stock BA/BF unit & mine being a modified ford unit [not by me] from an escape [?].


cheers

Ps. the only thing i regret now is .... i wasn't able to checkout the AU2 wagon i had to see what could be done using Forscan

key with chip, over the counter cut is $150, for one, i don't use eBay garbage when it comes to keys and transponders, when you had them replaced, were they cloned or properly learned into the system ? in order to learn them into the system, you need a specialised can tool, one of my old ones than i have succeeded in programming keys in au and ba is the hanatech ultrascan p1, original cost 17 000 new including adapters, i paid 750, plus another 500 to max out the updates, badly outdated but i use it for early models and the ignition scope feature. as for the factor iec, don't like the factory iec system that incorporated the climate control into the radio face, recipe for disaster as system electronics start aging. never liked them even from new, adding a custom head unit is something that you did in the past to give ur vehicle your own personal touch, much like adding a sports steering wheel which today you cant do due to the obsessive compulsive srs laws once again crammed down my throat.
I have had 2 iec failures now, locked up climate control. really don't want the added layer of complexity which is why i am opting out of as much as un necessary tech crap i can.
you cant buy new modules from for any more, looking deeper into old mates au, would require a wiring diagram, information on component locations, multiple hours of labour to properly diagnose and repair, require specialised scan tool equipment to properly initialise, ford uses parameter reset.
Cheaper and easier to disable pats with a j3 chip.
The factory iec though better than earlier included entrainment systems can't hold a candle to the features available with aftermarket systems.

WOW! .... ok.

the keys were bought from ebay - yes. were they crap? - NO. are they cloned - NO. are they 'properly learned into the system ?' - YES, otherwise the cars would play up [after all this time too]. does my scan tool do what yours does - possible not ... cost me under 500 [if i remember correctly?] for a new windows 10 laptop. so far it has not failed me.... fingers crossed & downloaded a program from the internet [which i still have to learn more about using it fully].





in the EB yes i would do all that, plus i have the 'sports' versions of the cruise control wheels .......



or




but the stereo .....



with





the BA . . . when i bought it



then.....

i have [to use on the BA] either the FG XR steering wheels [x2] or the SZ steering wheel [only the one] or the standard FG steering wheel





and i use SZ Territory stalk switches.


current ICC



luvely unit it is too. will be even better when i fit the SY Territory rear camera & wiring looms.

eventual unit




and the current front seats are from a SX/SY Territory altho at a later stage i will use BA/BF leather seats front/rear.




with one ICC - i made one unit from 3 units [forgotten which ICC it was].


. yeah i didn't like the AU whales teeth when it 1st came out .... but it grew on me .






what caused the ICC failures?. from what i understand with the ICC/BEM is that due to age & shaking they go thru daily - some of the soldered joints crack & cause issues which is an easy fix with a soldering iron [& has been documented] with also some capacitors crapping themselves [leaking as in the early BA PCM's]. it's actually not hard to find the 'proper' wiring diagrams for the AU/BA/BF/FG/SX/SY/SZ fords [i have them here] ..... hell i even have the correct printed factory manuals for the EA/EB/ED/EF/NF/EL/NL fords!. the J3 chip can also have it's own issues as i have read about.

for the BA & the BF my scan tool consists of the windows 10 laptop and an available to download program with an appropriate usb cable.

did you try the link i gave you in my other reply to you?.




cheers


Ps.
and i use the mirror switch in the ad in mine not the original that you have in yours. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/154737052596?hash=item24070c0bb4:g:oOwAAOSweEFa-SPZ

Wow,

nice trolling there,
how many hours of ur life on that reply ?

trolling ........... havn't started .... yet. you asked some questions & i answered . . . plus a bit extra. did you get it started yet?. re hours, is the car up & running yet?.

I stand by my initial comments of a hatred of many of the things manufacturers cram down our throats by force and that will not change. As for trolling, I know it when I see it, there is no need to carry on just cause your fee fee's might have been hurt because I chose to quote sections of your comments. I quote strings of text which I wish to specifically address. We all have our preferences, different strokes for different folks I guess.

Quote" did you get it started yet? "

I have been very buys with an bt-50 3.2L engine swap the past few days and other jobs this week but yes, I have managed to get the vehicle started, not the way I was hoping, the immobilizer is still active, I can confirm that without the transponder chip in the key the engine wont start and the hand on the instrument cluster is flashing, I managed to perform a parameter reset with my trusty Hanatech Ultrascan scan tool and successfully initialized the replacement ecu. Other than finish soldering in the replacement second hand connector and parameter reset and to replaced the corroded one that was killed by mouse piss. I was careful to keep the can lines as close to original length and twist as possible using heat shrink for insulation and solder. I think I may have missed a step in the destructions, cleaned the j3 port on the ECU on both sides with thinners, a flat blade screw driver and some sand paper but didn't look at the two resistors described in the destructions. Will check and see if I need to bridge the two parallel jumpers to enable the J3 port in the ECU.

"My History with your J3 chips" Previously I have swapped out a faulty J3 chip in a v8 5l au ecu which was fitted to a transit van some years ago, it successfully corrected the random stalling when driving, I put it down to serial data loss to the ecu from the j3 chip due to possible dry joint and or connection error. The job was my initiation at a new work place. Among other items corrected o nthe vehicle discussed, someone had run a speedo corrector in the transit van wiring using the transit van speed sensors, put a nine inch diff into it he vehicle and changed the ratios, as the van was running the au btr electronic four speed, the speed pulse rate from the output of the speedo corrector was insufficient at lower speeds to allow the transmission to shift properly and until you hit about 20 km/ph, the transmission consequently took off in lip home mode. To correct this issue, I wired in a factory speedo transducer on the extension housing which was hampered by the fact that a 12v supply was not present nor a 5v ref ( originally provided by the AU BEM that was not present int he current configuration )for the signal wire which I corrected with a 12v supply and a voltage divider circuit for the 5v ref. This corrected the transmission shift issue. The van has been ins service some time since its repairs with the exception of minor repairs along the way. The odd hose, leak etc. It has a vibration in it on take off I have determined to be due to a miss matched pinion angle on the differential that in my opinion can only be corrected by adjusting the leaf spring brackets or installation of wedges between the diff and leaf springs. I also toyed with fabricating adjustable arms to the chassis and top of the leaf spring mounts to keep the front of the leaf spring rigid under loads but decided not to go down this rabbit hole. The client has decided to live with the issue as it it not that bad.

As for the J3 chip install on the Au to disable smart shield, it was a bit of a surprise when it initially didn't work. My main concern was that the BEM may have be overriding the J3 chips functionality via the can bus. I will confirm on Sunday in my spare time whether I need to do the jumper mod in the ECU or not. In the instructions I found a reference to " extra tips " for installing the J3 chip but have not found the source for these tips. Is there a direct link you can provide for these tips, are they worth reading or just generic un-necessary reading ?

wait till you have too work on an electric vehicle then most of the items were required for various legal reasons & some . . . ..... my "fee fee's" fine.




my understanding re J3 is the connections must be clean. with the AU/BA [& i presume the BF?] you can have the spare ignition switch hooked up & working .. with the original key reader having the correct key taped to it. that is what i did to my BA before fitting everything back up correctly [original column only had one key - parts car had two] & doing a PATS on it.






all went well with the van, well done. re the J3 & more info .... sorry i will be no help there as there is not a lot i know about the J3's & all i can help with is in the link - https://www.tiperformance.com.au/library/knowledge-base/ or even contact em directly.