Wondering if anyone else has had this issue. Firs thing in the morning car starts and runs fine, volts gauge up around 14v with lights and heater on....all good. After 5 or 10 mins once engine has warmed a bit , volts gauges starts to drop, stop at a set of lights, idling in drive with brake lights on, volts gauge violently fluctuates between 11 and 13v. Things get a bit dim but no dummy light appears on dash. Kind of goes back to normal when it gets moving again. Warms up a bit more then the engine suddenly cuts out, no spluttering, just dies. Go to restart, cranks slow then starter clicks. Put gauge on battery, 12.6v or there abouts. Try starting again, engine cranks but violently shakes like its trying to escape but no start. Put a screwdriver into a plug lead and checked for spark, none. Let it cool for a couple of hours, starts and runs fine.

Had a diizzy rotor and cap replaced just over a year ago, it proceeded to chew the center pin out on the cap over the course of a year, so i recently swapped the cap, rotor and module with ok spares i had on a low mileage spare engine ive got laying around but problem still persists.

I can get around a 7-10km drive out of it before the engine dies. Gets me to work and back....just.

how olds the battery?.

Couple of years i guess, but also has the same issues with a near new one out of my other falcon

Bit of an update. Did a quick check today. 12.45v at battery with engine off, engine warmed up and running with all lights and acc on, in drive with brakes on 12.1v. Think the alternator is crook. Guessing it could also be part of the problem with the engine cutting out when warm.

problem with the motor cutting out when warm could be related to the TFI [?] unit on the dizzy?.

I've already swapped out the TFI module with a another one (a tested used spare) and still does it. Ive decided to replace coil with a brand new one, rebuilt another bosh dizzy along with a new rotor, cap and TFI module. Will be doing this in the weekend. I also swapped the alternator. A m8 is putting an AU XR6 intec into his ED wagon and he gave me the alternator off his original engine which worked fine. Mitsubishi type, same as what was originally on mine. Did notice the the pulley on the replacement one was smaller though and the outer case was slightly different. Put it in anyway. But now when i run a meter over the battery, its reading around 15.1v at idle and drops to around 12.3v under load.