2005 Ford territory Ghia, i changed out the master window switch twice and i can use both back windows from the master switch BUT i cant use the fronts from the drivers side, how ever all windows except the drivers window will work on their own switch (except when i put the original faulty master window switch back in)

any other idea on what i can check?

so what was wrong with the original? & why change twice?.

ahh yes, with the original fitted non of the power windows worked at all, not even from their own switch, so i thought "ah ha it's the master window switch" so i swapped it out for an illuminated one and we get the scenario stated above (can use the back windows from the drivers switch but not the fronts, all windows work on their own switch except the drivers) so then i thought since the original was a non illuminated switch that maby a few pins were in the wrong place so i brought a non illuminated switch but again same result.

ok .. there are no different pins between em as the only differance is the extra pin for illumination [have fitted both to my BA Futura]. have you tested the drivers window motor directly [ie not using the switch] to see what happens?, fit/use a fuse just in case there is a problem with the motor.

thats next on the list

got it all sorted now, it was just a loose wire in the harness that was preventing the front 2 windows from working.

was it one in the door loom at the switch or going from door to body?.


bet your glad it's fixed tho.

yea i should have mentioned that, it was in the drivers door in the plug that connects to the master window switch, just one wire that had come loose and yea both front windows refused to work, glued it back into its spot and away it went like nothing was ever wrong

Hi all,
I have a 2010 SY2 Territory and the rear passenger window will go down no worries but decides not to come back up via any switch. I have replaced all switches with brand new Ford switches (no ebay specials) and it still happens. I've managed to get around this by unplugging the motor and joining a positive and negative wire to the plug terminals and then to a cordless drill battery which powers the window back up into position. This works in both directions, with no noises or scraping, which tells me the motor is in working order. I've read a few comments on a few posts and have decided i will give the harness a voltage test tonight to make sure that I'm getting the correct voltage to the motor while actuating the switches and I might see if the motor is carboned up but thats all my ideas.
Has anyone else got any other directions i can look into.?

Cheers guys