Just got a turbo BA in the drive & will be doing a coil swap next week.

Anything I need to know that's not in a book ? ( I don't have a BA service manual...yet)
Will be getting fuel miser coils.

Background: 160 thou odd K's on odom, factory / unmolested other than a twin tailpipe set up.

Engine idles & revs fine, drives well with minimal right foot, falls flat on its face under load so coils are the first item on the list.
Car has been babied & has been semi stagnant for at least 2 years & not a lot of maintenance done in that time.

With BA Turbos i would only use genuine coils and plugs. Reliability of the genuine is proven.
And if your going to do coils you may as well do the plugs while your at it.
Not hard to do at all.

So do ford have their own brand / generic, or did they use a branded product... bosch, NGK ... ?
Plug change already discussed.

Is it also wise to use dielectric grease on the plug fittings ?
I've heard some horror stories of plugs & coils being corroded together.

Yeah it is a brand under the Ford banner,trying to remember/stupid scotch. , as mentioned they are well proven.
I'm using the coils that I had N/A in the XG's first engine in my turbo setup,Drifter Coils which are High Output coils with some good NGK plugs.
Have heard from others that they are good (turbo wise) but can't tell you first hand sorry.

All good. Job is done now & car runs perfect.

Brakes hadn't had love for a while either, both front calipers had 1 seized slider each, no rubber boot!
Again all fixed now.
I've never seen "offset" brake pads, but these old ones certainly were!

LUBE YOUR SLIDER GUYS!!

As a follow up, few things I wanna mention, for the sanity of others,

The coil change fixed the misfire issue, runs "as new" now, however getting to them was fun...
, the rear rocker cover bolts were a pain to access being against the firewall* & the fact they're allen keyed bolts, & access to no:6 spark plug was hindered for the same reason*.

Had to detach socket from ext' bar just to get it in & out of the hole (plug 6) & ALL plugs needed a magnetic tool to pull them up out of the head.
All 6 spark plugs were homed up very tight, alloy against steel threads played a role I reckon.
Sprayed wd40 on no:1 but made no difference extracting it, so didn't bother spraying the other 5.

One wiring plug on a coil had a broken lock tab, small ziptie secured it to the coil.
Small, round rubber blocks on top of each coil pack when you remove the cover they stick to the coils but refit into locating holes on the underside of the cover.

Had 1 bolt disappear when removing the top intake plenum.
A stupid rubber mounted bolt above the inlet manifold that vanished somewhere within the confines of the engine bay after the rubber portion snapped.
An "unseen" failure, only audible as the bolt fell to its new home!

I also had this problem recently, thanks so much for the answer pokerogue

Hey mate, sounds like a great project you've got going! Doing a coil swap is a solid first step, especially since it sounds like your BA is struggling under load. A few things to keep in mind:

Check your plugs: Since you're already doing coils, it's worth checking (or even swapping) the spark plugs while you’re at it. They might be fouled or gapped incorrectly, especially if the car's been sitting for a couple of years. Fresh plugs will ensure you're getting the best spark possible with those new coils.

Battery health: With the car being stagnant for a while, the battery might be a bit tired. A weak battery can mess with the coil performance too, so make sure it’s holding a strong charge or consider replacing it if it’s been a few years.

Fuel system: If it's been sitting, stale fuel or a clogged fuel filter could be contributing to the power drop under load. Consider changing the fuel filter and running some fuel system cleaner through it. Fresh fuel wouldn't hurt either.

Vacuum lines and hoses: Check all vacuum lines and intake hoses for leaks or cracks. Even a small vacuum leak can cause poor performance under load, especially with turbo cars.

Fuel miser coils: Good choice, but just make sure they’re installed correctly and everything’s seated right. Sometimes aftermarket coils can be finicky, so double-check all connections before buttoning it up.

Throttle body and MAF sensor: After sitting, these can sometimes get gunked up. A quick clean can improve airflow and throttle response, which might help the car feel smoother under load.

Good luck with the swap! Let us know how it goes and if the car feels better afterward.