Does anyone know where I can find a schematic or wiring diagram for a BA XR8??

I have purchased a complete motor and trans from a 2005 BA that caught fire. It is going into a 65 XP Ute.

I basically need to get power to the ECU, Tacho and guage outputs from it.

Smartlock may be a problem, but no one said this conversion would be easy!

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BA's dont use smartlock, its called smartshield or something,

You might be able to find somone who can reflash it to remove smartshield.

I'd suggest running with an aftermarket ECU. That way you're not relying on Ford looms or ECU (or smartsheild) to get it all working.

You can create your own harness, and program the ECU exactly to your taste. This will be handy for gaining some extra power throughout the range also.

In the end it will work out cheaper.

Reccomend any ECU for this app?

My last build was a 351 Clevo in an F-truck, where an electric fuel pump was as high tech as it got!!!

I'm an Electronics tech by trade, so it doesn't matter if I have to make something custom. Just want some feedback on what's hot and what's not.

Thanks.

Some may suggest the MegaSquirt. If you're capable of assembling a simple PCB and doing a bit of your own work setting it up, then this may be for you. Someone has been kind enough to build one up for me, and I'll be using it to run the iginition on my V8 EB Fairmont.

These can be had for a couple of hundred dollars and a few hours of labour.

But really most ECU's should be able to run it. EMS 8860 is always a standout performer, otherwise have a browse through the Wolf3D and Haltech lists to see what takes your fancy.

Thanks. I'll let you know how it goes.

It may be possible to flash the smartshield off using the SCT software(I'll look into it) but there may also be issues with CAN to contend with. Another probably easier option is to use an EECV and harness from an '01 up 4.6L Mustang along with a TwEECer. So you'll be able to turn PATS(Smartshield) off and recal the whole thing. Plus it will be Mass Air so will handle big engine mods easier than the Speed density system it has now. It will also work with all your original sensors and the C.O.P ignition. You'd also have to heave-ho the drive by wire but that's a good thing I reckon.
Is this going to have the BTR auto as well? If so speed sensing is one issue....you may need ABS encoder wheels on your brakes.
Bye bye shock towers for the poor old ute hey?

Cheers,
Pete.

OK there is a software switch in the code for P.A.T.S.(the U.S. term for Smartshield) disable....whether it actually works or not remains to be seen.
There is also a switch for Vehicle Speed so it does not have to rely on an external VSS source.
As for the Instrument connections that is via CAN so analog instruments would need an interface to create a CAN node and therefore a DAC to drive your gauges...doable but a s**t of work.
Your best bet here is to fit a separate water temp sender to suit your gauge.
Tacho is a little more tricky and may actually be solved by using a multiple spark ignition like the Plasma Booster which may have a tacho output built in. Or, seeing as you're a tech you could build a circuit to buffer each ignition driver pulse and in turn use that to drive a gutted 12v relay purely to obtain the flyback required to drive an ordinary tacho.
Oil pressure is much the same as temp of course.

Cheers,
Pete.