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Waggin |
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FLYRYD wrote: Waggin wrote: Good points, however breaking even 180-190RWKW (on an accepted dyno) will cost more than 10g anyway sure it will if you don't run NOS! Spot on
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One Drone |
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Gee, for that money you can find complete windsor motors. Plug and play!
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SQUEAK |
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It sounds the turbo is the way to go then......
I have a few mates that I have been speaking to, They work at various performance shops and they can get me any turbos and stuff at staff price.....Which is very cheap. Ok then, Ive done a bit of stripping to my car.....Ill take pics tomorrow. Now couple of questions, What kind of fuel pump should I get to suit a turbo charged engine? Also what size injectors should I be looking at? And with the bottom end, Its all out and im going to rebuild it, so with that in mind what should I get done? I.E what size bore, what kind of pistons? And what kind of comp ratio should I be going for?? I was thinking of a acl race series kit. Are they any good?
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AKO |
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Pump: Walbro 255 lt/hr in tank (get em off ebay).
Injectors: You can hunt around for second hand ones on the rotary forums or buy a set of 42lb ford motorsport injectors brand new (also on ebay) for $350 aus including shipping. I had a price sent to me by Blue Oval Industries for the above amount but ended up buying a set off a work mate for $300. And where in Sydney do you live? May know of a couple of places depending on how far your willing to travel. |
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SQUEAK |
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Acacia gardens.....Next to quakers hill
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SVO XR6 |
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Waggin wrote: FLYRYD wrote: I didn't read all the posts so sorry if I'm repeating someone but from experience it all comes down to how much you want to spend. There is no way your gonna get 420hp out of a N/A 6 for a start so you can scrap that idea. With a tough N/A motor, the right gears, a shot of NOS and some slicks you *could* probably hit the high 12's down the quarter. But without the NOS it'll be a 13-14 sec car. Of course the biggest advantage of a N/A setup IMO is if a cop looks under your bonnet, it all looks stock apart from maybe a set of extractors. I've chosen to go back to N/A for this very reason. On the other hand if you go for a turbo setup (which I have done in the past), there is the potential for bigger horsepower but you will always have to be careful driving around unless your willing to spend another couple of grand getting it all emissions tested and complied. Having had 3 defects in the past, and the 3rd one with the turbo's on, it was the final straw and I decided to go back to N/A where pretty much all your mods stay hidden. So if your all cashed up and don't mind spending 10g+ on a turbo then go for it. You will have more power, retain great driveability and get that cool psssshhhh noise on gearchanges!! However, if your car's a bit of a cop magnet or you think that a turbo will cost you 5g max then forget it and go N/A. Good points, however breaking even 180-190RWKW (on an accepted dyno) will cost more than 10g anyway does it? Squeek, youll f**k kick yourself if you go n/a.I was shaking my head reading this whole thread. Ive spent alotta time on N/A, but streetable and with a sealed bottom end, that was my aim. I would NEVER do it again. Basicly if i was to go N/A again i would ONLY go a cia, zorst/stractors and a mild cam. But if you want more go turbo, no questions. And your saying 500hp flow outta a falcon head....I THINK NOT! 412hp is the most ive ever seen and it was month of RnD ect with a AU head. Get a stg 4 snort, tidy up ya motor, 10 psi and youll push 300rwkw easly.
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AKO |
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SQUEAK wrote: Acacia gardens.....Next to quakers hill Well Rigoli at Wetherill Park and Rocco's at Minchinbury both have good reputations and experience with EMS, but they charge like a wounded bull. Im having mine tuned this week by Cresent. Ill let you know how it goes.
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SQUEAK |
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Thanks heaps man, keep us posted
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SQUEAK |
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oh yeah, SVOXR6, here is the stuff on the cylinder head straight from there website.
CNC Kostecki 4-litre Ford OHC 500hp Potential Kostecki 4-litre OHC is ideal for hot street. Best suited with modified camshaft with high lobe intensity. Version two large valve head produced 300hp at the tyres. Naturally aspirated.
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SVO XR6 |
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Kostecki, hah!
Im keeping my mouth shut....
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Tyretoaster |
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mrnasty |
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well i think what i am doing at the moment is the way to go, hot tanked block, re bored, torque honed, im rebuilding my motor with VPW race forgies, new rings, new bearings, maybe new rods. then a JMM race head and stage 5 cam, haltech ECU, then shes ready for a blower. No worrying bout throwing rods, and generally s**t going wrong, it will be a brand new motor in a way, and will probably last alot longer than a 180,000km motor with a cam and a blower chucked on. If ur gonna do it, do it properly i reckon. 315rwkw out of an NA 6 cylinder. doubt it
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Waggin |
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mrnasty wrote: well i think what i am doing at the moment is the way to go, hot tanked block, re bored, torque honed, im rebuilding my motor with VPW race forgies, new rings, new bearings, maybe new rods. then a JMM race head and stage 5 cam, haltech ECU, then shes ready for a blower. No worrying bout throwing rods, and generally s**t going wrong, it will be a brand new motor in a way, and will probably last alot longer than a 180,000km motor with a cam and a blower chucked on. If ur gonna do it, do it properly i reckon. 315rwkw out of an NA 6 cylinder. doubt it
Sounds like a plan! Just make sure JMM doesnt machine your head, as you need to keep compression down. Also maybe opt for a different cam, as the stage 5 cam wont be suitable for a blower.
_________________ WAG363: AUII LTD Supercharged 363 Dart Stroker [Supercharged 363 LTD Build] |
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mrnasty |
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yeah ill go the stage 5 cam for the time being and if i decide to go down the blower path ill change the head setup around, i just started getting ideas about a retro XD. 346 injected stroker and stuff.... but yeah, just bought a complete EF motor and transmission for $400, and the motor is stripped to bits. cam and head is in the post at the moment (i hope!) and im waiting on prices for the pistons. Im also gonna try out one of jims stallys (decided against the manual now)
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