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Screamer |
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Just want some one to tell me if this is an easy job to do or is it better to pay someone to do it. Maybe one of you ipswich guys can give me a hand or something. what do i need to do the job??? or is there any tips you can tell me???
_________________ "Press 'any key', where the hell is the any key!!!!!!!!!!!" |
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fencepost |
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I downloaded this document from a website that I can nolonger find the address for so apologies to the author.
This document will explain how to replace the water pump O-ring on Ford Falcon I6 Vehicles EA-BA inclusive. Ford changed the design of both the heater pipe and the water pump in June 2004 so vehicles built after this date are not covered in this document. Vehicles with the updated water pump can be identified by the letters "AA" cast in the back of the pump near where the bottom radiator hose joins on. BA Falcons with the old water pump and pipe "BA" is cast into the same place. Parts Required: 1x AU-8K540-A (O-ring) 1x BA18N318S (Spacer) Tools Required: 10mm Socket and suitable ratchet 13mm Socket and suitable ratchet 19mm Combination Spanner (for bell housing bolt securing rear of heater pump, Except BA vehicles) Hammer and suitable punch (for tapping the spacer into the pipe) Replacing the O-ring, and fitting the spacer. 1. Confirm that the O-ring at the rear of the water pump (where the heater pipe joins into it) is leaking 2. Remove the cooling system cap and refit it (this lets any pressure out) 3. Remove the exhaust heat shield 4. Undo the bolts holding the heater pipe to the engine block. (rear - near/on the bell housing.) 5. Carefully pull the pipe rearward out of the water pump. 6. Inspect the recess in the back of the water pump and clean any corrosion or grime if required. 7. Replace ‘O’ ring (Be sure to use a small amount of Rubber Grease to lubricate the new O-ring) 8. Tap the spacer into the front of the heater pipe until square and flush with the end of the pipe. (This may require removal of the engine cooling fans to get enough movement with a hammer and punch. Sometimes the spacers go in without any need for tapping, other times its a real pain.) 9. Carefully refit the heater pipe into the water pump. 10. Fit and tighten both front and rear heater pipe bolts. (It MAY be necessary to make the holes on the pipe slightly larger using a die grinder etc, however of the 30+ cars I've replaced this O-ring on, only one has required this. If you feel this is required make 100% sure the spacer is fitted into the pipe correctly.) 11. Refit any other items removed to gain access. 12. Refit the exhaust manifold heat shield. 13. Refill the cooling system, and pressure test the system if you have a pressure tester available. If you do not have a pressure tester. Run the engine until at operating temperature, confirm the vehicle is still full of coolant and observe for any leaks. If you use this method keep a close eye on coolant level for the next few days. |
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Screamer |
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Thanks heaps. Any one wanna give me a hand in case i stuff it up.
_________________ "Press 'any key', where the hell is the any key!!!!!!!!!!!" |
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Happy |
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that's a good doco fencepost !!!
_________________ Owning 1 of 67612 EF GLi Sedans made
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2fishingdogs |
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I fyou need help Ill offer. I've PM'd you
_________________ FACTS ARE MEANINGLESS.
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Screamer |
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thanks. But i didn't recieve your PM though???
_________________ "Press 'any key', where the hell is the any key!!!!!!!!!!!" |
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xpression |
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fencepost wrote: I downloaded this document from a website that I can nolonger find the address for so apologies to the author.
This document will explain how to replace the water pump O-ring on Ford Falcon I6 Vehicles EA-BA inclusive. Ford changed the design of both the heater pipe and the water pump in June 2004 so vehicles built after this date are not covered in this document. Vehicles with the updated water pump can be identified by the letters "AA" cast in the back of the pump near where the bottom radiator hose joins on. BA Falcons with the old water pump and pipe "BA" is cast into the same place. Parts Required: 1x AU-8K540-A (O-ring) 1x BA18N318S (Spacer) Tools Required: 10mm Socket and suitable ratchet 13mm Socket and suitable ratchet 19mm Combination Spanner (for bell housing bolt securing rear of heater pump, Except BA vehicles) Hammer and suitable punch (for tapping the spacer into the pipe) Replacing the O-ring, and fitting the spacer. 1. Confirm that the O-ring at the rear of the water pump (where the heater pipe joins into it) is leaking 2. Remove the cooling system cap and refit it (this lets any pressure out) 3. Remove the exhaust heat shield 4. Undo the bolts holding the heater pipe to the engine block. (rear - near/on the bell housing.) 5. Carefully pull the pipe rearward out of the water pump. 6. Inspect the recess in the back of the water pump and clean any corrosion or grime if required. 7. Replace ‘O’ ring (Be sure to use a small amount of Rubber Grease to lubricate the new O-ring) 8. Tap the spacer into the front of the heater pipe until square and flush with the end of the pipe. (This may require removal of the engine cooling fans to get enough movement with a hammer and punch. Sometimes the spacers go in without any need for tapping, other times its a real pain.) 9. Carefully refit the heater pipe into the water pump. 10. Fit and tighten both front and rear heater pipe bolts. (It MAY be necessary to make the holes on the pipe slightly larger using a die grinder etc, however of the 30+ cars I've replaced this O-ring on, only one has required this. If you feel this is required make 100% sure the spacer is fitted into the pipe correctly.) 11. Refit any other items removed to gain access. 12. Refit the exhaust manifold heat shield. 13. Refill the cooling system, and pressure test the system if you have a pressure tester available. If you do not have a pressure tester. Run the engine until at operating temperature, confirm the vehicle is still full of coolant and observe for any leaks. If you use this method keep a close eye on coolant level for the next few days. hey i wrote that... http://www.mypage.tsn.cc/dave/Documents/water_pump.htm also wrote this one. http://www.mypage.tsn.cc/dave/Documents/smartlock.htm about cleaning contacts in smartlock remotes. if some1 wants to add them to the doco section feel free |
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puca |
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easy job dont be scared
_________________ if it dont work the first time your not useing a big enough hammer |
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2fishingdogs |
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Still after a hand?
_________________ FACTS ARE MEANINGLESS.
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Screamer |
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I am picking the parts up today. I will give it ago after work tommorrow. If i need help i'll give you a ring. Thanks again for offering to help me.
Cheers Nathan
_________________ "Press 'any key', where the hell is the any key!!!!!!!!!!!" |
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2fishingdogs |
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How did you go?
_________________ FACTS ARE MEANINGLESS.
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Screamer |
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I didn't get a chance to do it yet. I had to fix hte misses's car instead. Had to change all the ball joints in her car. I will be doing it this weekend though for sure.
_________________ "Press 'any key', where the hell is the any key!!!!!!!!!!!" |
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