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snap0964 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: ok so will a 90 watt globe work without blowing my fuse and will it work without melting my headlights ... ? The headlight cct is powered via the IGN fusible link (60A) and a 30A cct brker (which sits under the coolant topup tank). This gives you 15A limit on each headlight assy low + high beam - you need to work out what lights are on and when, and what current they're drawing - e.g. 100w light is drawing @ 12v (100/12v) = 8.3A. Check that your high & low beam headlight relays are rated enough as well - they sit between the battery and RH fender and are 2 & 3 looking aft in the group of 4.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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veeate |
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{USERNAME} wrote: As far as i knew, and if its the same as the EB, the inner lights are driving lights containing a single filament globe, while the outer lights are the headlights, containing two filaments. When switched fron low to high beam, the low beam filament on the outer light goes out, and the high beam filament comes on. The driving lights come on at the same time. As for me, i have 100/65W (i think?) globes in my headlights, 100W globes in the driving lights, and 100W globes in my spot lights which i put on the front. Nice wall of light when travelling at night!
Nah,...the el / efs are diferent to the EA- ED....as far as i know they dont take the H4.. |
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Mr Man |
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when i changed the globes in my EF, it took H1 low beams and H3 high beams, i spoke to a bloke at the ford dealer, and he said something about the EF's came out with all sorts of globe combinations for the highs and lows, he said some had H1 in high and low, some have H3 in both, and same have H1 lows and H3 highs... has anyone else heard anything about that?? or can shed some light on it??
_________________ 300+rwkw HeadsexTuned XR6 Turbo Ute *NOW SOLD * |
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veeate |
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{USERNAME} wrote: when i changed the globes in my EF, it took H1 low beams and H3 high beams, i spoke to a bloke at the ford dealer, and he said something about the EF's came out with all sorts of globe combinations for the highs and lows, he said some had H1 in high and low, some have H3 in both, and same have H1 lows and H3 highs... has anyone else heard anything about that?? or can shed some light on it??
yeah thats right....as far as i know they have H1 lows & H3 highs... |
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Leroy |
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the ef/l's gli/futuras had H1 & H3
the higher series had H4 & H3 XR's had H1 & H3
_________________ Now driving a Hilux |
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Mr Man |
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{USERNAME} wrote: the ef/l's gli/futuras had H1 & H3
the higher series had H4 & H3 XR's had H1 & H3 cheers
_________________ 300+rwkw HeadsexTuned XR6 Turbo Ute *NOW SOLD * |
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stixinc |
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the 100w globes will melt your fitting and your lenses, this happened to my brother and i was warned by my mechanic to only use the 65watt globes but to use ones the have a better rating thing. I think they are 4300k which is a lot brighter.
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effair |
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start cheap & cheerful then work your way up, Mothers Plastic Polish & terry cloth on lens then make a command decision on next step involving watts/amps/melts etc.
_________________ "faster...faster....until the thrill of speed overcomes your fear of death." (late) Dr Hunter S Thompson |
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mavs19 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Hey, Just picked up a pair of 100/90 watt H4 Xenon globes, one of my old ones is busted.
Will I need to change a fuse to run these as the ones that are in there now are 55/60 watt (and not very bright!) Look carefully at the base of the new “Xenon†bulbs you have purchased and see what wattage is given on the base. Some of the Chinese manufacturers put 55/60w -> 100/110w on their boxes making life difficult for everyone. This does not mean that the bulbs are 100/110W this is just a promotional trick, What it means is that these bulbs are 55/60W but because of using “Xenon†gas in these bulbs they are as strong as if they were 100/110W. So if they are in reality 55/65W they are of the same temperature as you old ones. 100W light is not twice as strong as 50W. light does not work that way. What is important is the Temperature of the light. And I don’t mean how hot they are. I am referring to the light temperature which is calculated in Kelvin. Now remember that pure white light, which is what you always want, is around 4300K. A major mistake made by almost everyone is that they think by doubling or even tripling the Kelvin they get much stronger light. WRONG. Light spectrum goes from white to blue then purple and then to darkness. So don’t fall for gimmicks and clever marketing tricks that promises stronger light if you buy 8-10 or even 13000K bulb. I have explained a lot more about light on: http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=11697
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Cruickey |
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Be very careful. As the manufactures cut corners these days to reduce costs, many of the plastic reflectors in headlights are designed to only take so much heat. Likely to cause damage to reflectors. If you really want more light, spotties are the go. |
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