Hey,
I have to do the front bearings on me EA, just woundering what exactly I will need, other than the bearings themselves......

Cheers


Sipheren

get only skf or ntn bearings, if you have dba disks get ntn as they run ntn runners out of the box.

htb grease
slpit pin,
and hub seal.

can get a kit with bearings hub seal and split pin, abt $25 a side.

apart from that just a pair of pliers and large shifter.

pack the bearing really well.
and readjust after abt 500km's.
replace the split pins (these are a once use item only)

Also, when doing up the nut on the end of the axle, dont over tighten it or youll have big issues. Though Im sure if youre about to do this, youll know how to. The nut doesnt have to be tight at all, otherwise it will bind and you WILL have a failure.

yep..get urself to front wheel bearing kits. part no WB1166.

Cheers fellas, I'll get the ntn ones....I was looking at getting everything from Superecheap...do they have that brand?..if not where is the best place?

[quote="msman"]get only skf or ntn bearings, if you have dba disks get ntn as they run ntn runners out of the box.

but you will replace the runners ( cones ) as the bearings and cones come complete as a matched set? therefore you will also need a hammer and a drift punch to do this.

unless your bearing cones are f**k then dont change em. but yeh just pack the new bearings full of htb grease and your right as rain. remeber pack the grease into the bearings and not just coat them.

Id be thinking of changing both cones. Bearings come as a kit with them, and you may as well use them. Never heard of not changing the cones before, and its not that hard. Just dont score them when putting them in, dont touch the face, and make sure they're home. If you have a nice big three quarter drive socket set, you may be able to find a sovket the right size to knock them in with. Places the load over the whole of the cone, not just one small section.

always replace the cones when replacing bearings you'd be a fool not to

Point number 1. NTN bearings are cheap. Timken are the leading manufacturer of taper roller bearings in the world. SKF are good but their pricing is far too dear. Basically, stick to SKF or Timken if you can. I buy Timken, FAG and NSK in my line of work. Won't touch any other brand apart from SKF, but they're too expensive. I also get OEM pricing from Timken and I'd probably only pay about $4/bearing.

Point number 2. You have to make sure the bearing is seated properly. To do this, and this is what Timken reccomend, after you've installed the bearing and adjusted it up, spin the hub the same number of revolutions as there are rollers in the bearing. This will seat the bearing, then you'll need to re-adjust the bearing.

Point number 3. Don't over grease the bearing. Too much grease will lead to premature bearing failure.

Point number 4. Don't over tighten the bearing. There should be about 1/8" (3mm) movement of the wheel when you rock the wheel back a forth by holding onto the top and bottom of the tyre. Don't rock it the other way obviousy, holding onto left and right, as you'll also be turning the wheel.

Point number 5. Get some brake cleaner. Your hands are going to be dirty and greasy and this will get all over your discs, so it's a good idea to clean this off before you hit the road again. If you don't, it will wear off after time, but you'll have very bad brakes untill their all clean, depending on how much grease is on the discs.

Oh, and maybe get some split pins the right size before you start. They sometimes break if they've been in and out a few times.