Yeah Slick removing the seal will give more air flow pressure into the engine bay but thats not where you want it, the seal stops air flowing into the engine bay and channels it to the snorkel. All this air being collected across the head lights,grill and bonnet lip is directed straight to the snorkel creating a high pressure area, so the engine doesnt have to suck it in. Its not forced induction but along the same lines.

good chance to install some ef xr6 vents?

i was keen to do this. any problems with it? install ef xr6 vents to the bonet with it open to the engine bay so the hot air can escape?

If the XR6 & 8 don't need it, so will I.
any way I got all the cold air I need from the two home made air scoop for the tickford snorkle & the extra supplementary intake tube.

Its a bit slippery in the rear now, jumpy of the lights & more responsive.

Many times I've reversed the inprovement I've made, back and forth, back & forth for the sake of comparision.

I can tell you now, that rubber weather, dust, air directional pressurizer strip did nothing compare to it now.

hmmmm maybe u can leave the rubber abound the back and sides and around snorkle but take it off from the right of the snorkle the the edge of the battery sorta thing.

so u get cool air comming in and the air is directed to the snorkle and averything is still sealed ?

win win i just might do that what a great idea lollllllllllll and take of the plastic on my ef xr6 wooooohooooooo.

Since l got the ftg intake it is hot too touch as it absorbs all the engine heat as well. Doesnt take a genius to realise that the headers would be hot to touch.

be specific when you post, cause the hotest thing in my engine bay is the headers. the rest is nice & warm which I can touch.

Slick, run an engine too cold and you'll cause premature wear, excessive fuel consumption, and wear out plugs faster.

Could you also inform us how exactally you think you get the extra timing advance due to cold air? The falcons run off the fixes spark tables and the ONLY change to ignition timing will be to retard it due to the knock sensor.

And heat stress? What are you on about? Running your engine 10C cooler than 80C isn't going to make any difference to 'heat stress'. The major stress that heat puts on an engine is the constant heating up and cooling down, especially when different metals with different expansion rates are involved. Once the engine's up to runningtemp, there's no 'heat stress' no it at all. Think about it, internal combustion temps are up to 900C. The cylinder wall temp is constantly fluctuating @ much much higher temps than your intake manifold. Doesn't seem to bother the cylinder walls!

Actually, when you design a car well, you aim to have the body create a low pressure area under the car, yes, this includes under the open bottom of the engine bay.

By having a low pressure under the car, you get a higher differentian pressure between the top and bottom thereby creating some downforce which helps with handling. The last thing you want to do is try to increase the pressure in the engine bay as this would flow under the car and reduce any downforce created by the body design.

Oh, and also, a warmer engine is better for power, not a colder one. If cold engines were so fantastic for power then we'd all be cooling out engines with liquid nitrogen. Of course, there is an optimal temp. As you have mentioned, partially correct, a hotter engine can lead to detonation through pre-ignition, so get an engine too hot and you make power and engine life worse, but by the same token, run it colder than optimal and you also do the same thing.

YaY! The car's constantly running in cold start mode now by the sounds of things. Very good. you'll soon carbon up your valves, plugs and cat converter. Because of excessive carbon on the plugs you'll also cause excessive wear on the leads as they will be forced to carry more power. Once the valves get all carboned up, they might not close properly leading to loss of compression, reduction in power and economy. You'll dirty the engine oil quicker and if you don't increase the oil change intervals, you'll accelerate the wear on the engine. The camshaft is the component that suffers the most from old oil..

I'll be sure to tell Murry Carter or Mark Skaife that they need to take the thermostat out of their cars and run the engine as cold as possible. I'm sure they'll be thankful for the info then they blow up a $60,000 engine after 5 laps.

The back rubber seal would be more effective.
Like unclewoja said, low pressure area under the car is an aerodynamic/downforce aid.
However having the air forced up out of the engine bay, is effective for dumping engine bay heat (heat rises remember).
Look at the drift boys, modifying there bonnet hinges so the rear is higher to let out more heat.
Having said that, again, like unclewoja said, I doubt it's necessary or that beneficial on a factory N/A car.
All you turbo boys though, that's a different story.

Agreed. But there is logic to this one. OK, i dont recall the wording of the rule - but basically, there must be something which keeps fuel and oil in the engine bay.

i.e. in the unlikely event of the fuel lines popping off at the input side to the pressure regulator, there is the potential for petrol to find its way onto the windscreen...

I believe the regulation is along the same lines as why you're not allowed to run a mechanical fuel pressure gauge in the cabin (altho you'd need rocks in your head to do so!)

That makes sense in one way, but in another, more correct way, at least you'd know what was going on if you saw the fuel spray onto your windscreen.

I just had to say it like that, I couldn't help myself.
:D:D

Last edited by Slick on Mon Oct 17, 2005 7:43 am, edited 1 time in total.

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I'll be more specific & concise this time, hehehe

* It'll be still hot but not hot that it'll burn, not as hot as extreme sealed in burning hot.
*the manifold primium, throttle body, intake pipes are cold to the touch. It will operate in a more efficent temperature where the knock sensor will not interfere with timing. {Ecu} stores multiple maps & will pick the right timing acording to temp, s**t fuel, loads & so forth. I can say good bye to pre-ignition, As we old school would say "premature detonation" *{excessive heat}= ping, pre-ignition, detornation, blown head gasket, burnt valves, warped head, burnt piston, some times the knock sensor is a mili second to slow:P
*{Heat stress}= The engine temperature will be at a constant maintain temperature. compared to a sealed engine bay where it circulate hot air until the electric fan kicks in {rise/drop} in temp.


* It is true that downforce is reduced if that front seal is removed as it will increase left/low pressure under the car at high speed. to counter that, lower the b**ch til you're 3" of the ground or if want install some ricer wings:lol:

*The seal was placed there to increase downforce on the front end of the car. for stability & handing at high speed, 100 + kmh. minimizing left, resistence & drug.

* right infront of the nose of the car {radiator, shroud & elec fan} has the most pressure{low}. not the snorkle, it'll suck in static pressure & low pressure which ever way. when the car is in motion air pressure will find the easy way around, over the car, sides & bottom where there is a larger surface & less resistence

*when the elec fan is off at high speed, there is minimal amount of air going throu the engine bay, so fast moving air will find the quickest way round, over the car {downforce/high pressure} & under the car {left/low pressure}. when the electric fan kicks in, low pressure will increase under the car. {modern cars}

* its all earodynamics. When they put in for wind tunnel time streamline is the aim maximium stability & handling at the highest speed & squeeze as much cooling as they can. to counter that, anti-boil.

*why would you remove the rear bonnet seal? I said front seal.


Economy wise, alot better. 82 ltr tank lasted me 670km with loads compared to 540km before. I keep a vehicle log for tax purposes so I keep track of km's & each fuel stops, my fuel bill is dropping gents.

why? the engine is operating more efficently.
why? I'm not doing 110 k's plus on the road, that high/low pressure will effect the way it handles. If I was to drive over 120k's or more, maybe then I start to feel the front end bounce. like they say, the faster you go the more resistence,left & drag. there for more enegy{fuel} is required to keep it at that speed to counter the forces. there for more heat is greated.


By the way, Its colder down here in Tasmania.