OK here is one for you,

I have recently put GT40P heads and AU intake mainfold onto my EB, the engine runs smooth as it should but there seems to be a slight flat spot in the throttle now from Idle to WOT, it also is using a s**t load of fuel now, it has the normal EB injectors in it and the timing is set at 30deg BTDC, do the need more advance with this setup? also the EGR valve and its components will no longer work, they are still hooked up but there are no ports in the AU manifold for it so it wont work anyway. After I initially got it going I took it for a drive and it felt like it went worse than before I changed the heads, but progressivly it is getting better.

Oh there was also a sensor screwed into the lower intake manifole on the old manifold that does not have a home on the new one either, is there an issue with this being disconnected?

Has anyone done this before and if so did they have these issues?

Jeff

Firstly yes the sensor that use to sit in the lower intake needs to be connected, it is the ACT (air charge temperature) sensor, without it it will default to high I would imagine and pull a lot of timing out of it. You can either tap a hole in the new AU manifold or just locate it in the intake tubing some even tap it into the airbox itself. The further away from the engine, the more power it will make but the more chance of pinging too.

IMO keep the timing set at 30BTDC as the GT40P's have raised the compression already. Once things are going well, then you can start to advance the timing a bit to see if there is any more power there. Get that ACT sensor sorted out, make sure spark plugs are gapped correctly (I find GT40P's a bit more sensitive to incorrect spark plug gap) and if the problem is still occuring, get it on the dyno to check AF ratios. Also, is the car idling correctly, if not check for vaccum leaks on the intake etc. The GT40P heads and AU intake should give you a fairly large increase in power 20-40rwkw so you should easily feel it when its right.

I have spoken to a few people since posting this and it would seem that yes that sensor is probabally upsetting the fuel consumption, with it off it thinks the car is cold, therefore giving it more fuel, I will connect it somewhere there and see how it goes, once it seems all ok I have arranged to give it a run on a dyno, and yes it Idles realy realy well, which surprised me because it did that the very first time I started it after getting it back together.

Not having the sensor isn't telling the engine it is running cold, probably quite the opposite. The sensore main function is to alter the timing curve depending on air charge temperature. I would imagine that if it cannot get a signal from the sensor it will default to the safest reading which will be very hot meaning a fair bit of timing is removed (if it defaulted to cold it would add timing and increase performance but could cause pinging). It could also be sending the EEC into limp home mode where fuel is increased and timing removed, either way performance and economy will suffer.

Atleast connect it and leave it secure in engine bay...For temp fix..
Use the A.U senser on inlet before throttle body....

i have just done the same thing and i got a new au sensor and connected it to the original eb wires and put it in the au inlet piping. it reads well and i recently had the a/f ratio checked and with my 24 pound injectors i have 13.3:1, pretty close to good.

i am getting around 450-470 k's to a tank.

I just extended the wires and put the original sensor into the intake pipe and she's got some balls now, and fuel consumption has come right back down, so its all good.