I MEAN BUY...

there's an edit button y'know

Okay boys 'n girls.

Been thinking about better discs for a while now...

I am not fussed about performance (stock are fine for the wife - If she don't mind - It don't matter)

But she managed to kill brand new standard DBA discs after 3 months!

This is a rock stock EF Gli.

Do the slotted rotors resist warping better than the standard ones?

Any other ideas to stop these things twisting? She does NOT in my opinion go hard on the brakes (quite the opposite in fact)

i don't see how she managed to kill them? mom's EB Fairy that we've had most of it's life is still on the original discs... maybe your pad choice isn't right, maybe put something softer on them (e.g. Bendix General CT, Ferrodo Targets).

and there's a caps lock button as well

Yeah my old man's ED Fairy is the same - done the pads once in 7 years - that's it! (So it's not coz it's colder in Tassie!)

As for my better half, If it's mechanical or electrical - she can kill it!

Don't recall the brand of pads? (Think they had ZERO or something similar on the box, might have been Ferrodo?) Black box with red band on it. Memory is a bit hazy 'tho!

I didn't screw around - New rotors, pads, bearings & kitted the calipers as the bloody pins had seized...

She does use the brakes very lightly - just "drags" them at a constant rate and gives herself plenty of room to stop.

(She used to have a N13 pulsar and doesn't like the EF - "too big")

These discs are 3-4 mths old and are starting to warp - not to the point of ripping the engine out of the mounts - but it is starting to get annoying.

I read somewhere (here?) that the discs are thinner in an effort to save weight? I would assume that would apply to the standard DBA replacements I used?

Ferrod Zero's are a brand of pad.

Sound slike something else might be at fault if you keep warping discs. Think how all the other mum and dad drivers drive their falcons around, warped discs isn't that common - that'd be a recall type matter for Ford.

She doesn't perhaps drive riding the brakes does she? Like left food on the brake ALL the time, right foot on the accelerator?

The major cause of disc warping is uneven cooling. When the brakes get hot, the area of the disc under the pads cools down slower than the rest of the disc becauese the heat in the pads and caliper has to be dissipated aswell which take more time. The differential in cooling causes the discs to warp.

Just because the discs are being used 'lightly' doesn't mean they're not generating a lot of heat.

Edit: Ahh yeas. I almost forgot. The other common reason for warped discs is uneven torque on the wheel nuts. If they're not all done up the same, the discs can warp. I don't know how this happens, all I know is it does and it's no urban myth.

Hello!

>She doesn't perhaps drive riding the brakes does she? Like left food on >the brake ALL the time, right foot on the accelerator?

No, definetly not.

Put it this way - If I were driving the thing, I could understand!

>Edit: Ahh yeas. I almost forgot. The other common reason for warped >discs is uneven torque on the wheel nuts. If they're not all done up the >same, the discs can warp. I don't know how this happens, all I know is it >does and it's no urban myth.

Changed s@#t load of rotors on plenty of different cars I have owned, this is a first for me! Think I did the wheels with a rattle gun from memory...

(I usually don't bother machining them - esp. if I don't have a solid history on the car - less mucking around to do rotors, pads, bearings & kit out the calipers. Then I can forget about 'em for a while!) Falcs and dunnydores are cheap as chips for parts anyways.

Dunno, will probably get these ones machined & recheck the bearings etc?

Just did the head, coil pack, fuel pump & filters, plugs, leads and injectors - purrs like a kitten now! That just leaves the brakes <sigh>.